| Author | Message | ||
     Littlebutquick |
EBR mine came with the sprocket a shorter bolt and a cup type spacer | ||
| Blownharley |
Thanks for the replies guys! I sent an email to EBR asking for the parts but the last two times I tried to contact them they never came back to me.... It's kind of strange since they are very fast to ship when you order parts from their web shop?? Well I'll guess I will send them a reminder tomorrow evening if they have'nt come back to me. | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
little, were you talking about DME race shop out of Winston Salem NC? Mickey has been racing/building for years, and not his son Dimey is racing now in the MiRock and Manufacturers Cup races. They are great chassis folks for sure! | ||
| Blownharley |
EBR had the parts needed for getting the sprocket in place :-) | ||
| Blownharley |
The cup for the front sprocket in place, all is good so far! | ||
| Blownharley |
I used the bike to test the new swing arm for a while. I thought it could be a good idea to try this before adding any more power...  | ||
| Blownharley |
And YES it is a bit high in the rear! I'll guess I need to lower the shock absorber mount on the swing arm.... | ||
| Blownharley |
Bike lift - check!  | ||
| Battyone |
I made my arm with an adjustable shock mount/ride height adjuster. You'll need to lower the bike a long way to get that arm working.The swingarm pivot is too high,so the arm gets longer if it squats,chain gets very tight very quickly...beware!!! I've been looking at a couple of options for more power,got a rotrex supecharger-space for the belt drive could be tricky- or probably the easiest option, a gt30 turbo. But want to do some more engine work first,to try to squeeze the most out na. | ||
| Blownharley |
I don't understand what you mean when you're saying that the pivot point is too high. In a perfect world the best place would be to have the pivot point around the front sprocket, in that way you would always have the same C-C between the front sprocket and the rear. I agree that the angle from the pivot point down to the center of the rear sprocket is too steep, and i would need to line up this a little bit better. the problem is, just as you said, that the distance between the front sprocket and the rear is becoming bigger when the suspension goes down. As long as you know this when you adjust the chain and do it in the right position, i wouldn't say its a big issue. But even if you would line up the Front sprocket, swing arm pivot point and the rear sprocket (all center points) you would end up in a situation with a decreasing distance between the C-C on the front sprocket and the rear. This will give you excessive chain length when the suspension goes down, which of course is easier to control with some kind of extra devise that controls the tension in the chain. Well I guess I need to lower the bike anyway to keep the center of gravity as low as possible..... | ||
| Blownharley |
Nice to hear that someone more than me is looking into force feeding the 1125!! Did you think about how to solve the EFI issue? I've been playing around with my PCV but it doesn't appear to be a platform stable enough to trust... I don't know but maybe I need to throw away the Buell ECM and start over with an aftermarket solution?? Any inputs on this would be appreciated! Thanks Peter | ||
| Blownharley |
Regarding the height of the bike, in the picture below you will find how low I can go. Still not horizontal swing arm angle....  | ||
| Blownharley |
I'll guess I need to move the shock mount about 2" to the rear on the swing arm...  | ||
| Blownharley |
Just some work...  | ||
| Blownharley |
Is this a good placement of the turbo, see link: http://www.sporthoj.com/forum/attachment.php?attac hmentid=372718&d=1352079388 | ||
| Battyone |
I made my shock mount adjustable. To get the bike low enough to allow wheel spindle/pivot alignement you won't be able to run an exhaust underneath the motor. I'm planning to mount mine under the left pod,sidemounted -inlet facing front. This will allow fitting above sump oil level to save drain issues. There is no reason why the standard ecm can't be used...map and baro sensors can be swapped out for 2bar versions,and the config rewritten. you also have maps for secondary/showerhead injectors. I'm going to use the standard ecm,everything you need for racing is there-bue2d or 3d- shift kill,launch limiter,data logging and ignition retard by gear if needed.But I'm not saying it'll be easy,just easier than starting from scratch. | ||
| Battyone |
The problem with the swingarm pivot is that it is above both sprocket centers, so when you load the chain it actually tries to pull the swingarm under the bike,lifting the rear end-like a shaftie-instead of squatting like you want. This unloads the tyre making it spin up easy. If you make the suspension soft enough so the bike does squat at launch,you have to be really careful with chain tension - I've already bent a swingarm spindle-. I use 530 chain and it was badly stretched, a 520 would probably have snapped. Now I drop the bike to the lowest possible point,set chain tension then put bike back to race height.The chain slap and rattle with no load is a PITA. | ||
| J2blue |
Most swing arm mods for the 1125 I have seen replace the shock with a custom length strut. Obviously it is for track use only, but if that is the intended use then the strut does double duty by allowing you to align the points of rotation and preventing any movement between the swing arm and the frame. Just a thought. | ||
| Fast1075 |
A strut is best used with a tire that has a very flexible sidewall (like a slick). Otherwise it can cause the tire to unload and spin at surface transitions and/or gear shifts. I have been away from the track for a while, and quite frankly never much messed with street tire stuff. Some of the modern "DOT" drag tires may fit the bill for soft sidewalls. We did kill a few Shinko 003's playing street racer with a turbo/nitrous 1150 Suk. But really, it just spun all the way thru. Took an 8" Mickey to actually hook it up. | ||
| Battyone |
I tried a strut,wrecked a tyre in 4 passes. Power ones,hook ups and mickey t's are great but still benefit from suspension. 1125 breaks the tyre away real easy anyway,once you go longer it makes it easier. The fix is either a new pivot point or slam the back of the bike real low. can be done but requires subframe mods and a sidewinder exhaust. has the benefit of raking the front out too. | ||
| Blownharley |
Started to work on the lowering of the compression on the engine. It's a slow progress but hopefully it will happen more after the holidays. Also I've worked on fitting the wastegate between the engine and the turbo and it should work.  | ||
| Blownharley |
It seems like the easiest way is to add a spacer below the cylinder....  | ||
| Blownharley |
I was figuring using one alu spacer with one gasket on each side. The spacer needs to be about 0,08" (2mm) thick. Probably it's a good idea to adjust the timing on the cams though... | ||
| Fast1075 |
Source some copper head gaskets and get the cylinder o-ringed. I would be careful with two base gaskets. I've see a lot of them push out from the clamping pressure. Maybe use some honda bond on the spacer instead. Or maybe some gasgacinch. | ||
| Firemanjim |
We use alum spacer laser cut under the cyl on our 750's with some Coppercoat. Never an issue. | ||
| Blownharley |
I was leaning towards the thick copper head gasket first, but after looking at the standard head gasket I'm more into the cylinder base spacer where you don't have that much heat. If I make the spacer a little bit thicker to eliminate the gaskets it would work IŽll guess? Jim, since you have used a spacer on your bike (with what I assume is a high boost application) I think it I should be fine! Thanks Peter | ||
| Battyone |
I'd leave the motor alone until you need to make changes that are shown as necessary. You might need that compression that you're going to remove! Need heat to drive the turbine,lower comp reduces that heat. Yes it might knock,but you have lots of ammo to fight it with,before you have to resort to losing power to try to find some more. I take it you're fitting bigger fuel injectors? or secondarys? you won't fuel much extra hp with the standard ones. | ||
| Blownharley |
Yes the plan is to add a couple of extra injectors. I'm not 100% sure how to handle the fueling at this point but I'll have some work to do on other parts before i start working on that. One way is to add an extra EFI fi. Microsquirt to take care of controlling the extra injectors. Or I could use the standard ECM and bigger injectors together with ECM spy (I haven't figured out how to work on that on bikes never than 2007...) but the problem is that the bigger injectors also is physically bigger than the 1125 injectors.. The compression needs to be lowered since I'm planning to run up to 14.7 psi boost if needed... The first problem I will run into when I get the bike running is probably the clutch. I have the stronger clutch springs from EBR but those will not take care of all the extra HP.. I don't know if a MTC clutch or something similar can be modified to fit? | ||
| Blownharley |
Adding a picture on a less successful start some years back...  | ||
| Firemanjim |
Peter, we run up to 32 lbs of boost and never an issue with spacer. It replaces the base gasket and we just hit it with coppercoat. With that amount of boost you must reduce compression or kill the bike! Better to use standard injectors and secondaries under boost so off boost you can run as normal. My 750 still on old system and running 425cc injectors--cold start is iffy at times(cold start fueling still controlled by stock ecm), have fouled a plug before.Upgrading to newer electronics and secondaries this off season. |
