| Author | Message | ||
     Georgehitch17 |
Hey guys Im doing my first drag race tonight! Im using a 2009 1125R fmf apex, K&N filter, and EEBBRR race ECM. Any tips as far as tire pressure, body stance, launch rpm, clutch usage, pretty much anything advice is appreciated! | ||
| Spike240sx |
I raced my first time on the bike about 3 weeks ago. Had a lot of fun. As far as set up and what not, I was running about 22lbs in the rear. I did not strap the front end down. As far as clutch, well it is a slipper clutch so feathering is much easier. Here is a vid of my last run of the day. Gave it way to much hell. As soon as the clutch locked up fully, up she came. Pretty aggressively too. She came down so hard we swore the front wheel touched the cement. Most of all have fun. I learnt alot about my bike that day! Cant get it to embed, so here is the link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7juPmKkJSbM (Message edited by spike240sx on August 17, 2011) (Message edited by spike240sx on August 17, 2011) | ||
| J2blue |
I started this summer for the first time and have had a blast. If you haven't made a lot of race specific modifications to your bike then concentrate on your take-off. I utilize the burnout to get a feel for where engine speed and traction work well before going to the line. Somewhere between 5k and 6k seems to be the best engine speed for me on launch. Be prepared to lean over the bars on the start, too. For the run itself, I have found that running the engine up to 10k for each shift is the best. You may, and I frequently do, shift sooner on the first to second gear change. Avoid waiting until you hit the rev limiter as that will slow you down quite a bit. I haven't played much with tire pressure changes. I did lower my pressure to the mid 20's a few weeks ago, but I'm not able to see the significance for all the other factors and mistakes I make. Don't worry about winning the first 20 or 30 times out. Just focus on the basics and getting familiar with proper execution of each phase of the run. I have found all the other bikers are willing to share their experience and help when you are just getting started so don't be afraid to ask them. | ||
| Georgehitch17 |
J2 did you do a burn out or anything to make the tire sticky on the passes you made before you dropped psi?? | ||
| 99buellx1 |
What? My take on what to do: (what I do) - Ride bike to track (leave it alone) - Do NOT ride through the water when going into lane. - Do small burnout, just to clean the tire (you have street tires, not drag tires, no need to do a smoke show) - Bring the RPM up after staged maybe to 3-4k (nothing excessive, you are going to be nervous and everything is going to seem to go very fast the first few passes, you don't want to have to worry about looping the thing.) - When the last yellow light goes on GO! (do not wait for green to light) - Focus on shift points, don't rush yourself, making a good shift is more important than jamming a miss. - ENJOY!! These are just tips on having FUN, don't get too wrapped up with what you are running for times or trap, just work on improving throughout the event, that's all that really matters. | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
great point about third green, a common mistake new folks make is waiting on the green. By then its too late. Like said, dont worry about a burnout, maybe spin it over just a second to clean it off, but I doubt you'll have to worry about traction. Start low. Start at a low RPM when you launch and then steadily increase it through the night as you get more and more comfortable. And once you launch, dont touch the clutch, just blip the throttle and gear up. And the final tip, the MOST IMPORTANT (just my opinion of someone thats been dragging buells a bit).... ... ... ... ... HAVE FUN. Dont worry about beating everyone out there and all that nonsense - JUST HAVE A GOOD TIME | ||
| J2blue |
Since it was a car buddy who got me into the drag race he insisted on me doing burnouts from the beginning. At first I didn't think it necessary. It can improve grip if the track is in bad shape, which I have seen. At some point the track gets good and sticky without the burnout. But I still like to do the burnout to get the feel for the power and traction balance. As was said above, don't ride through the water, though. Just back into the water half way and get used to the process. I have done burnouts at both pressures and was not able to grasp what the difference in traction was. But the track after a hot, sunny day, and several car passes, is usually very sticky for my setup. There was one time when I switched lanes and found out that you don't want a short slip then grip situation. If that happens the front end will pop way up when the tire grips and you have to let go of the throttle completely. With these bikes in stock configuration you really have to focus on not flipping on the start. Start slow and speed up in small increments for each pass. Don't do what some kid did last week in his brand new Mustang 5.0 and hit the throttle like he'd never hit it before. He spun out and hit the wall mid way down the track. Talk about a walk of shame! Work up your launch speed conservatively and learn your limits and the bikes. | ||
| Budgolf |
I don't have the experience that most of these guys on here do but I will say this, I think for the 1125 burnouts are more important than some have said, depending on the track and the weather, and that transition from the launch pad to the strip itself. At my track the launch pad is concrete, and turns to asphalt just after the tree. The 1125 will bust the back tire loose at WOT if the conditions are right. One night I had it go from front wheel in the air to back wheel spinning to wheel in the air again. All on the same pass. Track was pretty cold and it was a pretty cool night. And call me crazy but I think these bikes make more power when its cooler out. So I say smoke that rear tire. Getting to WOT immediately is imperative, and short sift thru 1st and maybe second. Like hybrid said, dont touch the clutch once your off. Just blip the throttle and shift. Damn I cant wait to get back home and get to racing again. | ||
| Williep13 |
You can ask a 100 different people and get a 101 different answers the most important thing is HAVE FUN! Over time you will learn what launch rpm you want because all that depends on how you clutch. If your not already doing this I would recommend using only two or three fingers on the clutch. That helps me slip the clutch to keep the tank out of my face. As far as burnouts and air pressure a lot of factors go into that but I would at least do a small burnout to clean the tire off and as the night progresses you may have to do bigger burnouts to get all the crap off your tire. Once it starts cooling off you definitely want to do a burnout cool tracks and really hot tracks are hard to hook up on. I would run as much air pressure as I can without spinning. Your first couple times to the track I wouldn't even look at the RT just try and get a consistent 60' that's where most races are decided. Once you get a consistent 60' and get comfortable bringing the bike out the hole then work on the RT. To many new racers are really concerned with their RT but they can't leave the line consistent because they are focusing on the light and not the launch. Once again have fun if your not having fun it's not worth doing. Good luck. | ||
| Georgehitch17 |
Well it was really fun I don't think I did to bad for my first drag race ever. I've never even really tried to launch from a dead stop til last night! but heres what I did Run 1 R/T... .545 60'... 1.918 330... 4.761 1/8... 7.084 MPH... 104.68 1000... 9.114 1/4... 10.869 MPH... 120.85 I missed third it killed my mph!! Run 2 R/T... -.184 60'... 1.995 330... 4.854 1/8... 7.141 MPH... 108.06 1000... 9.128 1/4... 10.839 MPH... 135.99 I had a blast and now Im hooked. My bike is a 2009 25R with fmf apex slip-on and eebbrr race ecm. I didnt strap the front because I've never done it but I will for sure on Friday! What is this bike capable of on a stock swing arm??? I know its pending rider but I was just curious whats considered good? | ||
| J2blue |
Wow, looks like a very good first outing to me. Congratulations! What elevation is the track at? As far as what the bike is capable of, see Little But Quicks history including before and after using an extended swing arm. He is little, and that makes a huge difference in ETs. My fat arse weighs in at 230#s, almost 100#s more than Joe's. | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
1.9 60s seem pretty good for your first time and this being such a short wheelbase. Glad that you had a good time, thats the most important thing | ||
| Georgehitch17 |
I weigh 180 plus gear so lets say 190 LBS. I really want to get that front strapped down and See the improvements! | ||
| Georgehitch17 |
Elevation is pretty low I think because its 20 miles from Lake Erie and flat the whole way there! | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
george - you'll see the most improvements with experience. Sure, the strap will help for sure, but the more seat time you get the better you'll get straps are cheap though, go for it | ||
| 99buellx1 |
I've ran a 10.2 something. Stock swingarm, stock height. E.B.R. full exhaust and ECM. | ||
| Georgehitch17 |
Good to know for comparison 99buellx1. Your bike probably has a few more ponies than mine I was aiming for 10.3 | ||
| Bott |
Very important for the back half : get as low and SMALL as possible. Chin on airbox, knees and elbows in tight. I have seen a full 10th and 3-4mph difference from this alone. At first,everything happens so fast that it's hard to remember the little things. With seat time, you'll notice the pass feels LONGER - even though you are actually quicker. If you are bracket racing like me, launch rpm and shift points have GOT to be the same,every pass. Do your experimenting during t&t and write down a full description of each pass. When rounds start, focus on being a robot-all aspects just need to be the same. Launch wherever you are comfortable,not neccesarily where you'requickest. A common mistake is 'under-dialing' - thinking "i know I can run quicker" and dialing in too quick. Take your quick time trial and dial a hundreth or 2 under that... Just because you've gone 9.x BEFORE, dont dial there if this day you are running 10.x...dial what you are going TODAY. Remember-in bracket racing you are only going wot because that gives consistent throttle position. Consistent robot wins the trophy-no matter how fast or slow you are  | ||
| Fast1075 |
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| Bott |
Somethin tells me Fast has something to say... LoL just say it!  | ||
| Georgehitch17 |
I can tuck in on the bike very well I feel like im lacking in the launch department | ||
| Fast1075 |
I thought about it for some time...the question about running street tires and how best to do it. To be clear, there are two distinctly different kinds of street tires...they share the fact that they have treads and they are DOT legal...similarity ends there. Genuine street tires (choose your brand) are a compromise between traction and life expectancy...add in the fact that street tires have a rounded profile so the bike can be cornered. You have reduced contact patch and a rubber compound that is designed to be run relatively cool. If you over heat the tire (as in doing a burnout), the rubber becomes "greasy" and has poor traction. On a DOT legal RACE street tire like a Mickey Thompson, the carcass is deigned for a flatter footprint, and the rubber is the same formula as a medium compound drag slick. (there may be newer tires that I am unfamiliar with that have stickier rubber)...at any rate, the racing rubber is designed to be run at elevated temperatures...much like a road racing slick has very poor traction when cold, a drag tire needs to be hot to hook...(tire warmers never caught on in drag racing).. The Burnout: Burn outs have one purpose...to get the tire hot enough to hook the best..and need only be done with tires that use race rubber...when done properly, a burnout should only be long enough to get visible smoke...maybe 3 seconds...follow the burnout with a dry hop..if you get a solid "chirp", the tire is ready...remember too long a burn out puts too much heat in the tire...heat cycles harden the rubber..that is why most of the time a tire loses bite before it literally wears out. Where to burn out: Do not drive thru the water box...a wet front tire will crash you, 'specially if you get a handful of brake at the finish line...pull (or push) around the water and BACK into it...but don't back all the way into the water...find a DAMP spot to back into and back ONLY in as far as you need to get the tire damp (the whole reason for the water in the first place is to make it easier to get the tire spinning...if you back too far in, you will drive thru the water and arrive at the starting line with a wet tire.....bad for you, a gimme for the competition... Street tires: Burn out is a bad idea..use dry hops...two or three will clean the tire...pressure is critical...to find the proper pressure...find a stretch of clean concrete...set tire pressure at a beginning point and do a launch...look at the tire mark...if there are two dark lines with nothing in the middle...not enough air pressure...if there is a skinny dark line in the middle and little to none on the sides...too much air...adjust as needed to get the best contact patch... Drag racing a street bike is difficult to master...and takes years of practice...if you can...go to a drag racing school and learn from the pros...otherwise, find the fastest, quickest rider in your area and watch his every move....hang out and help him in the pits...pick his brain... I have motocrossed, road raced, short tracked, hill climbed and sand dragged...but drag racing is the most addicting of them all...just one more tenth...just a few more horsepower...just one size bigger nitrous jet...i quit when I discovered my addiction was becoming my financial doom....stick with the street bikes and Saturday events....if you can. I stopped by my buddy's house last week to help him shim a head...my old 1430 big tire bike was sitting in his garage...it still had the 7.91 dial-in time on it from the last race...I was so tempted to reach for my checkbook....(sigh)... (Message edited by fast1075 on September 02, 2011) |
