| Author | Message | ||
     Puzzled |
I worked on the fairing stay a little today. It weighed in at 2 pounds 10 ounces and I was able to cut a pound off easily.       | ||
| Puzzled |
A couple coats of paint......     | ||
| Puzzled |
Next up is the top triple tree. There was only a few ounces to be gained here.   | ||
| Lucas70374 |
Looking good | ||
| Jbolt |
That looks good. Have you tried to lighten up anything else? | ||
| Puzzled |
I'm looking at the rear subframe. I use the space under the seat for my electronics so I need to gain access to it. If I cut the subframe I loose the latch assembly. SO what I'm looking at now is either Dzus fasteners for the seat cowl or being able to remove the entire tail section easily. The rear rotor is portly weighing in at 2.4 pounds.  | ||
| Jbolt |
I was thinking about the sub-frame too. With the jets I work on, there are dimpled holes through most of the spares and ribs. The same would work for most anything that needs to be lighter. You could drill maybe 7/16 holes, 1/2in apart all the way down the sub-frame. The key to keeping it rigid is the dimples. How much weight do you think that could take off? | ||
| Puzzled |
We can't look at the single weight loss, we need to consider the overall weight loss. Erik Buell Racing sells the short sub frame which is what I was considering doing to mine (cutting mine). | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
dremel tool on this or what? nice reporting back on the weight losses, thats awesome | ||
| Bott |
would love a way to lose the pillion seat yet still have the cowling removable. I also am using that space and need access to it.The seat and cowling seem pretty hefty.... | ||
| Puzzled |
I used a saws all to remove the webbing and the bolt lugs. From there I used an electric rotary tool with an aluminum bit (same tool used for porting heads). A little file work combined with some hand sanding and I was good to go. | ||
| Court |
Just out of curiosity . . . did you do any analysis before cutting? | ||
| Puzzled |
Such as? As for structural integrity, who cares? It is on a dedicated drag bike. I don't care if it explodes if it hits the ground. I figure if your good buddy Erik can cut them like this for road racing I can for the strip.  | ||
| Puzzled |
Checked with a rotor company today to see if I could get a lighter rear rotor. It looks like they can build the same size rotor weighing in at just under 1 pound. That is roughly 1.35 pound loss of rotating mass. I'm waiting on price. | ||
| Mike1125r |
Ebr has a rear lightweight rear rotor if interested. | ||
| Puzzled |
Any idea what it weighs Mike? | ||
| Puzzled |
As for the top tree not a single bit of the bracing was removed, strictly the thin material between the webs. I can see a few reasons why the road race bike don't do this as I have seen on the E B R race bikes the top tree sitting above the tubes (tubes recessed) and the fact that they place a lot more stress on the front end going through the turns. My front end barely touches the track as noted in other posts. (Message edited by puzzled on December 23, 2010) | ||
| Puzzled |
Tubes below the tree.  | ||
| Mike1125r |
Puzzled the rear rotor weighs 1.5 lbs | ||
| Puzzled |
Thank you sir! |
