| Author | Message | ||
     Bott |
Since I'm running swb and stock shock-and strapping the sh!t out of it, is there any point to raising the forks as well? It just seems to me that at swb- dropping the triples is only shortening wheelbase and would make the bike want to stand up MORE.... am I wrong? Wish I could lower the rear, but my mods planned have already exceeded the 'race' budget heheha. So- drop the front, or just keep strapping alone? | ||
| Littlebutquick |
DROP THE FORKS THROUGH THE TREES A BIT AND STILL STRAP SO YOUR NOT STRAPPING THE FORKS UP TO MUCH SAVES BLOWING A SEAL | ||
| Bott |
makes sense- thank you Sir. | ||
| Puzzled |
The gains from lowering the bike are far greater than the ill affects of the small amount of wheel base that is lost. From BDE; As a general rule: for each inch that the chassis is lowered, approximately one tenth of a second improvement in a quarter mile elapsed time can result. when the machine squats on take off, you get the improved traction, but also a lower CG to offset wheelies. Additionally, you receive the added benefit of the bike raising while moving down the track, which results in more traction on the top end. Typically, machines with a taller chassis set-up leave poorly, but hook better up top. Of course, we are trying to achieve the best of both worlds! } | ||
| Fast1075 |
There is another consideration to lowering the trees...that is reduction in rake and trail...it would be very sensible to add some sort of effective steering damper.. I have seen numerous crashes in the traps from too much front lowering with stock rake on the frame....not Buells...but plenty of Gixxers and "Z's"....I had a bike throw me down in the traps years ago that I am sure would not have happened if I had been running a damper...most sanctioning bodies require one if you are quicker than X.XX (depends on the sanction)... (Message edited by fast1075 on December 11, 2010) | ||
| Puzzled |
Fast1075 I have been on the fence in regards to a damper, not now. I didn't see anything in the NHRA rule book in regards to a damper. Hell I didn't see ground clearance info either. Holy shit you came off hunh? I can't help but think about that every now and again. My car has a big old gazillion point cage in it that I feel quite comfortable in. | ||
| Bott |
I've been running a GPR on mine. it was most likely rider error, but when my shifter was working the bike would wheelie on upshifts and get VERY unstable. I'm just curious that in my situation- with stock rear ride height- if lowering the trees is going to be beneficial? Joe's suggestion has me leaning heavily toward dropping the front to save fork seals.... | ||
| Fast1075 |
I have run nearly every sanction over the years (they come an go)....what usually happens is something upsets the suspension like a bump....or the front wheel has been in the air (or very light from accelleration) and gets crossed up...or most often of all when the rider slams the throttle off and gets a big handful of brake between the 1000ft mark and the E.T. lights in an attempt to "wheel" the competition without breaking out....this will fully compress the fork and can either ground something on the track levering the wheel in the air or otherwise destabilize the chassis...instant tank slapper. Again, I will stress these were not Buells...these were imports with modified stock frames that ran trap speeds of anywhere between 140 to about 160 or so. Saw a Pro Street bike go down AFTER the finish line...at around 180....guy had it pinned thru the mph lights trying to beat a record....then got a big handful of front brake...locked up the wheel...(skinny little rock hard front tire to "save weight"...the guy missed the next season and will never have feeling in his feet again. | ||
| Puzzled |
One of the guys on the Road Glide forum went down somewhere near the traps, Toni Froehling on a Pro Fuel bike. Didn't sound good from what I read.... | ||
| Puzzled |
How far are you guys dropping the tubes throught the trees? |
