| Author | Message | ||
     Bott |
Switched from all electric Pingel to a generic ebay air setup. I make the 1-2, then have to double or triple hit the button for the rest. Have experimented with pressure adjustment and ram height- no fix. Experimented with air kill line length. I assume since it hits on 1-2 that the kill duration and timing is ok....any suggestions? | ||
| Littlebutquick |
sounds like kill time is not long enough what ecm have you got i have buell race one and kill time is in there i am using 70 ms | ||
| Firemanjim |
Try it on a rear stand and see if the stroke of ram is long enough and that your bracket it not bending/distorting. One I got from Schnitz Racing was doing that. | ||
| 46champ |
Do you have enough air volume? You may be bleeding off enough air after the first to shifts that it isn'tcompleting the shift on the 2-3 shift. | ||
| Puzzled |
I just finished a GSXR that was doing the same thing. In that bike it was the stroke that was causing the problem. I ended up changing the piston end (rode end) to one slightly longer and that solved the problem. On my bike I had initially installed a plug in the empty hole on the piston. This was causing problems with my shifts. I later found out that I didn't need to have the plug installed and it has been shifting fine since. | ||
| Bott |
Puzzled- thats too weird! I saw that plug in your photos, but kept my mouth shut- assuming you only had it in for the install. In hindsight I guess I should have said something and ya could have given me a "no sh!t, Sherlock" or in a better scenerio checked my statement...oh well live and learn. We should all stick together over the winter, as 1125s are fairly rare at the strips. Our season is over and I will certainly be doing a lot of work and asking lots of questions. An alliance of Badweb Drag Racers? | ||
| Williep13 |
I have had this problem before. Where is your shift cylinder attached to the shifter? I had drill a new hole in my shifter and it is mounted 2.5 inches from where the shift rod comes out the primary. Simple physics if the shift cylinder is mounted closer to what its moving it has to move less. Here is what i had to do;  | ||
| Bott |
i thought about that Willie, but what baffles me is that the 1-2 is the furthest throw, and mine makes that shift like clockwork....so I know my kill is good, shaft location is good and kill time is good. After the 1-2 it all falls apart. Think I need to mount a vid cam to see what-if anything-the ram is doing on the 2-3. | ||
| Williep13 |
1-2 is not the furthest throw, 4th is. Trust me man I beat my head against the wall for a few months on this. Move it and you will see. | ||
| Bott |
Season is finished, and I got nothin to lose- gonna give it a try. Thanks Willie | ||
| Williep13 |
Another thing to be sure is your kill. You said you have it correct but make sure it is. I destroyed a transmission by using an air kill with incorrect kill time for to long. The line going to your engine kill should be 6 inches longer than the one going to the shift cylinder. Another suggestion I would make is getting rid of the air kill and going to an electric kill, the best thing I have ever did for my bike. | ||
| Bott |
thinking about a HoleShot Electric for the spring. 2 guys I race with use them-seem pretty bulletproof-one on a Zuki Bandit one on a CBR1000 | ||
| Puzzled |
Bott since you have an air shifter now stick with what you have. Is it all air or elctric over air? I'm running the electric engine kill. The unit is adjustable in regards to how long it kills the ignition. This is something you can add to your shifter if you don't alreay have it (I converted mine). Next up is setting it up for automatic shift as opposed to manual button shift (optional). When my bike sees a set RPM it shifts. Dead on accurate/consistant. I recently added a two stage limiter (have yet to test). This will allow me to stage at the same RPM (9K) every time while allowing me to be at WOT at launch. I'm chasing Joe and Mike's great times! | ||
| Puzzled |
.....and to add. I'm strongly considering converting my system to CO2. Less filling of the bottle and more consistent pressure at the cylinder. | ||
| Bott |
great on the 2step. I hope it works for you and you share the brand and model! At this point i plan on staying swb till I can afford an arm. I want to stay Streetbike ET, so bars are off the table for me. I just hope I have the balls to run a 2step at swb hehehe | ||
| Bott |
Puzzled- electric over air/air kill. If I had been at all successful with this setup I would have just converted to electronic kill- but The Holeshot is looking better and better- no filling of bottle no fussing with pressure. Expensive though-$500 plus. Got 6 months to mull it over. | ||
| Fast1075 |
I ran my pneumatics on CO2...I had a shift cylinder, a line lock cylinder, and a throttle stop...but I had a lot more room for my junk...you need a surge tank for a CO2 system to be reliable...I ran a 1 pound CO2 tank, used the frame as the surge tank...and also two 3 pound nitrous cylinders...(some use the nitrous to power the shift cylinder...N.O.S. has a nice billet regulator...I used one for my CO2). Air over electric is good and reliable as long as it is set up properly...the best way to set up the kill time is to go "stupid long" and adjust back...you need a good soldering iron, some good solder (like Radio Shack brand) and a set of micro drillbits...torch cleaner bit sets are cheap and esy ti get at the welding supply house. On setting up the shift cylinder...a trick I used on my own as well as client's bikes...pull the shift into gear and hold it in place in the fully shifted position with a bungee...attach the shift cylinder and extend it fully...build or adjust the mount bracket to put the cylinder in this position....remember the cylinder has more force in the "push" position than in the "pull" position... Assuming the transmission and shifting mechanism is in good shape, the only reasons for no shift are insufficient throw, insufficient return, insufficient pressure, or insufficient kill time...(assuming you don't have mechanical binding or such...the cylinder needs "jiggle space" throughout the throw arc... |
