| Author | Message | ||
     Williep13 |
The air lines on an air shifter what is the proper way to get the right lengths? (Pingel shifter) I have heard the engine kills needs to be twice as long as the cylinder one? Also heard that the engine kill line needs to be 6" longer than the cylinder one? If you make the engine kill line longer than its suppose to be will the engine kill be longer? If so how much makes a difference? | ||
| Bott |
I would just call Pingel. They are GREAT to deal with and always answer any questions. 608 339 7999 | ||
| Puzzled |
The engine kill needs to be 6" longer than the one to the actual air cylinder (as per Pingel). I'll ask when I call tomorrow about being longer than the stated 6". The length of the line doesn't actually kill the motor. It is the solenoid attached to the line that does that. I'm using a electronic kill module as opposed to the air. With this setup I should be able to wire it up for "automatic" shift, no button pushing. Again I'll know tomorrow when I call to confirm a few question I have. | ||
| Fast1075 |
On an air shift system that used the pneumatic kill...if you take the kill switch assembly apart and look at it, there is a piston, spring,plunger and micro switch. Air pressure pushes the piston against spring pressure which moves to push the actuator on the microswitch...this opens the ignition circuit, killing the engine. The piston has a hole in the center...the hole allows the compressed air to escape...the spring pressure overcomes the falling air pressure, allowing the micro switch to return to it's normal state...the ignition is restored and away you go. The timing of the engine kill/shift cylinder actuation is determined by the difference in lenght of the air lines...the line to the kill unit is longer because it takes X lenght of time for the air pressure to build...the engine must be "killed" to unload the trans dogs before the shift can occur...if the cylinder has pressure too soon or too late the trans will not shift or be damaged by being forced to shift by brute force. The DURATION of the kill is determined by the size of the bleed orifice in the actuator piston...to get this right for YOUR bike takes some fiddling and adjusting...you shorten the kill period by enlarging the hole...if the kill lacks duration, you solder up the hole and make a new smaller one with an appropriate drill bit. Drill bits can range in size from as small as .022 to as much as maybe .050 depending on YOUR needs....the kill needs to be long enough to make a complete shift consistently...but as short as reliably possible.You can buy micro bits at any welding supply house...they are used to clean torch tips. Too much kill time wastes ET and can (on a powerful bike) cause the chassis to be upset to a point where the bike can be dangerous on the 1-2 or 2-3 shift... If you do use "auto shift" with an electric over air system, you need a controller for the purpose. Using an rpm switch only will work MOST of the time, but will screw you up if you get wheelspin. A controller will prevent shifting within a particular rpm window and time range. I used Schnitz controllers when I was racing...but I have no idea of they have anything that works with a Buell system. If they have appropriate controllers, they are the BOMB!!! Just be sure they get wired EXACTLY as specified and shielded as needed... | ||
| Puzzled |
Thanks for the heads up on the Schnitz controller. I'll look into that.  |
