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Buell Motorcycle Forum » Buell RACING & More » Racing - Circuit/Road Racing » Archive through January 21, 2010 » Connecting rod « Previous Next »

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Green_method
Posted on Sunday, January 03, 2010 - 09:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I am doing some math from school. Does anyone know the length of the connecting rod? center to center.
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Moxnix
Posted on Sunday, January 03, 2010 - 09:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

In which motor?
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Duggram
Posted on Sunday, January 03, 2010 - 09:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

2009 1125RR is 143mm (5.6 in) from the article in the Dec RRW. Does that help?
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Green_method
Posted on Sunday, January 03, 2010 - 10:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

yes the 1125R.
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Green_method
Posted on Monday, January 04, 2010 - 04:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

just a plain jane 1125r.
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Duggram
Posted on Monday, January 04, 2010 - 06:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

This is interesting. Why would the RR be different from the R in rod length?

This is a chance for me to learn.

If you were talking about the 1190 kit motor, it might be different. Cause we don't know if the 1190 is a stroker or an over bore. If it's a stroker then I could see a difference in rod length.
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Neb25
Posted on Monday, January 04, 2010 - 06:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The RR & the R have the same length.
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Strongbad
Posted on Monday, January 04, 2010 - 08:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The RR and R do have the same stroke, but rod lengths are different. The RR rod length is 143mm and the R rod length is 135mm.
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Oddball
Posted on Monday, January 04, 2010 - 08:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I guess the RR has those short/no skirt pistons with the wrist pin 8mm closer to the rings?
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Anonymous
Posted on Monday, January 04, 2010 - 10:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Yep
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Green_method
Posted on Tuesday, January 05, 2010 - 12:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

thank you all for your information
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Duggram
Posted on Tuesday, January 05, 2010 - 07:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Is there a simple reason for using the longer rod? Increased compression ratio? Do the barrels need to be lengthened?
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Anonymous
Posted on Tuesday, January 05, 2010 - 12:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Short lightweight 2 ring piston has shorter distance from pin to crown, therefore rod longer by commensurate amount. Some advantages, some disadvantages.
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Duggram
Posted on Tuesday, January 05, 2010 - 12:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Does that affect reliability?

The reason I ask is I plan on doing as much engine work as I can afford next winter. But I want to retain as much reliability as possible.

Thanks for the help.
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Benm2
Posted on Tuesday, January 05, 2010 - 01:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Off the top of my head, here's what I remember:

One reason is as the rod length increases for a given stroke, the piston spends more time at the top of the stroke. This is specifically important during combustion, where there is a bit more time for the burn to be completed during the "roughly" constant volume phase of the cycle.

It also increases the deceleration & acceleration acting on the piston for any given RPM, which adds loads to the rod pins at both ends.

I don't think it helps with reliability.

Poke around a bit on the net and you'll find a fair amount of information on rod ratio.
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Davegess
Posted on Tuesday, January 05, 2010 - 04:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Pretty much anything, after you get past the basic defeating of the EPA stuff, you do to increase power will effect reliablility. It is really a matter of what you plan to use the motor for.

I race motor has different needs than a street motor and different reliability requirements. A endurance racing engine will be different than a drag race engine. Both need to be reliable enough for the intended period between tear downs.
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Duggram
Posted on Tuesday, January 05, 2010 - 07:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Maybe we should start another thread for this? But, since I have your attention here, I'm a 60 y.o. club racer on an 1125R. I want my motor to last a full season then have it "freshened up" over the winter. I want as much punch as I can get within that parameter. Any advice on how to achieve this would be appreciated.

BTW I already have plans in place to improve handling.

(Message edited by duggram on January 05, 2010)
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Davegess
Posted on Tuesday, January 05, 2010 - 10:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Call Erik at Erik Buell Racing. He will have the skinny
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Benm2
Posted on Wednesday, January 06, 2010 - 05:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)


quote:

I'm a 60 y.o. club racer on an 1125R. I want my motor to last a full season




60!! Which motor?!
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Duggram
Posted on Wednesday, January 06, 2010 - 08:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Dave, that's my plan. Thanks.

Benm2, there's a guy from AZ that looks like he's in his 70's and rides trackdays at my "home" track in NM. He rides an old Bultaco 125. Uses an electric wheel starter. Gives me real incentive!

I may not ride the 1125 into my 70's, but I'll be riding something.
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Benm2
Posted on Wednesday, January 06, 2010 - 09:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

There are two old gentlemen who ride up here, I saw them at a New York Sportbike Club trackday at Summit Point. I believe they called themselves "Team Old Farts", and the one has "you just got passed by a senior citizen" on the back of his helmet. I think they're both over 70!

I've also seen "vintage pilots" on some really fun stuff, like old TZ750's.

Good for you and them, keep it going!
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Firstbuell
Posted on Thursday, January 07, 2010 - 12:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

during my 1st-ever road race practices - Nelson Ledges, '71 -
my fresh, track-prepped Ducati [a '67 250 Diana Mk3 5-spd] wouldn't fire right -
even with its brand new 6V Yuasa strapped aboard

the ol' gent in the pits next to me, named Doc, competed on a 4-sp 175/200 Ducati -
before our combined-classes race, he ambled over to my furrowed-brow pit
& checked out every aspect of my coil-&-points ignition

proclaiming it "OK", he reached into his toolbox & drew out a dry-cell 6V lantern battery,
whose screw-top terminals were immediately connected to the Bolognese wires -

booming bevel megga music !!

thanx to Doc, a 65-ish vet competitor, 23-yr old me finished that AAMRR baptism race -
whence I traveled to San Jose, promptly joined the AFM & kept racing for 10 years

again, at my 1st CA event - Vacaville Raceway - I saw grey riders,
a little stooped & deliberate, quietly competing

at 2009's past BUB meet, as at all Bonneville events,
lotsa old [& very old] guys came up to the line

there've always been capable older vets -

uh oh - now, I'm one of em !!
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