| Author | Message | ||
     Xoptimizedrsx |
anyone has setup steps for the new guys getting into the sport. i have the bike and bars. almost ready for the first few passes. will need help adjusting and rpm launch rpms.tire pressure warm tires. xb9 beefed up some. 100 hp avg | ||
| Hutch |
setting up bars are ez you need a level and a tape measure. first thing is to set the bike on leavel ground and bike on a swing arm stand or something to to hold it streight up and down . Put the leavel on the rear brake rotor to make sure bike is leavel, now with bars installed put leavel on cross bar that holds the wheels on the bar and make them leavel. this is a starting piont for ride hight of abrs i put the front trie on a 2x4 piece of wood and have the bars just touching the ground. that is the other starting piont. now as track and tire traction change you can ajd bars as needed, if the bike starts the buck up and down the bars are unloading the back tire lower the bars a little bite, if the back tire spinns a lot rise the bar a little . remeber a high bar when the bike is launchs hard it will unload the tire and cause tire to spin but once it spins, the bike will be off the bar and get more traction and stop spinning tire and go back on the bar and unload the tire and lose traction causing the bike to buck. I always start will the bar as low as 2" and go from there . I hope this helps . | ||
| Xoptimizedrsx |
yes that helps. thanks guess there is not a lot of drag guys on here on buells. so its going to be real interesting learning this stuff. i wish i had someone close by on a buell but we are given what we are given. again thanks for the help. mike | ||
| 1hatchet |
••••••••••••• What tire will you be running, will you be racing on a 1/4 or 1/8 mile track? This is my "98 S3 Race Bike on an 1/8th mile track, why 1/8th because the track is only 5 miles away.  | ||
| Garrett2 |
yes, the 2x4 is a great starting point id say get them 2" off the ground and then go from there, you will have to adjust some at different tracks. i think you said in the other thread that you had a front strap? I'll be honest, i've adjusted my front strap before to change the bar height and it was/is super easy and quick vs the bars themselves. just a quick tip for the future. I was in ATL this year and texting back to my friend here about my runs and I was running really terrible, couldnt get it to launch well, he said to lower the bars. I was real short on time, he said raise your front a hair and it worked. 1hatchet - what have you done toyour s3 and what sort of times you run? I also have a s3, 1999 | ||
| 1hatchet |
My "98" S3 which has not be opened internally and has a Thunder Slide carb. Kit, Vance & Hines Exhaust, Prospect Hill Performance custom air cleaner, Daytona Twin Tech Two-Stage True Single Fire Ignition Coil and Module Model 1005T, Dale Walker all Electric Shifter, Shift Light, Rear Shock Replacement Lowering Strut, Front Forks Strapped Down, Changed Gearing from Stock 2.10:1 to 2.26:1 and Pingle Wheelie Bars. 1/8th Track 60' 1.86 330' 5.228 1/8 8.033 MPH 86.38 Nothing to brag about and I am not. I have much more TNT for myself and the machine. Plans are to convert to chain drive for more gearing variables and to learn the bike more before I invest more into the motor. With present gear ratio I am @ 6800 rpm @ Finish Line in 3rd Gear with Rev Limiter set @ 7200. | ||
| Garrett2 |
how long has that belt lasted you with the bars? ever do any races with AHDRA? | ||
| Fast1075 |
Randy, you need WAY more gear...or squeeze some Smurfs down the intake  . (Message edited by fast1075 on July 28, 2009) | ||
| 1hatchet |
Garrett2, the belt has had not a problem. I have only test and tuned three times with this bike setup. With the strut in place I have the belt set fairly tight and my starts are with a drop of the clutch no slipping whatsoever. Thus the two stage. Only problem with belt drive for me is the limitations of available gear ratio's. Fast1075, what I need is way more practice, I will be racing in the no-box class of a bracket group at the local track against cars and bikes on the 1/8th mile. So being a 5 second bike is not my goal, however 6.5 would be nice. When I decided that I was going to convert this bike I wanted to do it right. Thus I have app. $1600 invested into the bike. + safety gear Full Leathers and Snell Approved Helmet. | ||
| Fast1075 |
Hatchet...I applaud your progress...It will take a year or more to fine tune your combination...if you don't already...get a notebook and keep track of any change at all, and what it did... In ET classes the first rule is consistency...take it slowly..I can't count how many rounds I have won or lost by one thousanth of a second. Work on a starting line procedure...and do things the same way every time...literally. Races are won or lost on the starting line. In your case, the clutchwork will be the most crucial. The 60ft is the most important part of the track. When you start getting consistent 60 ft times...you are on your way. Remember, you are not racing the guy in the other lane in ET racing, you are mastering the track and your bike. If you get a good light and run your dial-in...you are hard to beat. If you decide to make changes do it during a tune n test ...make notes and compare with before to see how it affected the set-up. If you are racing against other V-Twins, and in a no electronics class the playing field will be level. You won't be dealing with the electronic head games. | ||
| Garrett2 |
i like everything FAST just said. a lot. and whatever changes you make - make small changes. see where you sit with that, try it a few times to make sure, and then change from there. but do it in small increments i am glad to see more buell draggers on here. awesome. | ||
| Fast1075 |
Glad to help out where I can...Too many people that aren't in the know dismiss dragracing as "anybody can do that...all you do is go in a straight line". One one level...where all you do is take a street bike and "see how quick it runs" it is pretty simple...just fun. But that's not racing. Racing is a whole 'nother animal...takes skill, dedication, intelligence, and attention to the most minute details. I hope this thread and others like it keep active...there is much to discuss....at some point we will go into "weather, atmosphere, and ET prediction...all extremely important in ET racing, and work up to electronics and head games. In my previous post, I pointed out that in ET racing, you are not racing the "opponent"..true...you cannot "beat" the opponent...but you CAN make him or her beat themselves... For now...we can work on set up and basics. Harry (Message edited by fast1075 on July 30, 2009) | ||
| Xoptimizedrsx |
I'm loving this post. you guys posting in the way you have will help others get into doing it correctly. even if they are only doing a track day to get a few runs. it will be nice to see how it goes with knowledge. whats the common ground clearance you get away with? any pitch angle or is it set flat and allow the bars create the angle at launch? mike | ||
| Garrett2 |
many associations have a minimum clearance, i think most are 2 inches, AMA is 3 if i recall correctly. I know ahdra is 2 inches though and im sure thats where most of us would be running at. i try to get it as flat as possible with my bike have the forks down to about 2.5 inches of travel, have the bike around 3", and then the bars are at about 2" AHDRA doesnt allow electronics like delay boxes, i know nothing of them ET predictions, to me, is pretty easy - what have you been running? how are the conditions now compared to qualifying? ok decide what you think you'll run. as for head games - it works on some, not on all. some dont give a crap if you stage first or if they have to stage first. but some do. I remember last year I was at a local track racing against another buell/harley rider. I called a mutual friend of ours and said 'so-so is here with his new sportster (or whatever he mayve had)' and he said 'run him, just make him stage first. If he has to stage first and wait a few seconds he'll redlight.' did it twice worked both times. Now keep in mind that you cant wait too long when it comes to organizations, AHDRA has 7 or 8 seconds until youre DQd, so you cant just make them wait all day at the tree. I am no expert at this, but I'll do my best to answer any questions that I can to the best of my knowledge - so keep em coming and for Gods sake - be a gentleman about things, dont double stage before the guy has prestaged, its F'd up. and will possibly get your run DQd at a race | ||
| Fast1075 |
Most sanctioning bodies check ground clearance with a piece of 2" pvc pipe...if it clears it passes. | ||
| Coolice |
Anyone interested in a Pingel wheelie bar setup complete? Fits XB and 1125 PM if interested | ||
| Guy_glover |
Speakin of Head Games ....... I ran a pro class for many years, Heads up no et dial in.The last six or seven years I usually had lane choice in the finals do to low ET. Whenever an opponent would ask me which lane I thought was fastest I'd ask them what they thought.[Moment of silence while they decided to lie or be honest] Whichever lane they thought was best I'd say OK I'll take the other one! The look on their face was Priceless. |
