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Buell Motorcycle Forum » Buell RACING & More » Racing - Circuit/Road Racing » Archive through April 17, 2007 » Penske shocks advice sort « Previous Next »

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Vonsliek
Posted on Tuesday, January 30, 2007 - 05:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

hey racers ..

looking to upgrade susp. for rear .. which do u guys use/prefer/recommend for a very bumpy track.

penske..

9051- 8100 series (6-posn compression adj.) or,

9052- 8600 Series (greater adjustability and granularity on the compression adjuster).

i am thinking of getting the traxxion cassette for forks .. ak-20(? right)..

also, does the change to xb9 series pistons in the xb12r - aside from bumping compression up - bring much more accelleration power &/or does the engine braking get brutal?

lastly i have a i-4 race mechanic willing to do head work on my xb12r coz he thinks he can get it breathing way better; we are looking to trade services, as i tattoo & wants a tattoo. any recommendations/cautions re: this kind of work. he is the race mechanic for a local raceteam in calgary, brad gavey racing.

thanks, looking fwd to feedback!

paul.
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Slaughter
Posted on Tuesday, January 30, 2007 - 07:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I JUST bought the AK-20 cartridges and new 43mm forks. Haven't run them yet but after a friend switched to AK-20 cartridge kit in his stock gsxr forks, he sold his Ohlins!

I'd actually ask Max (Traxxion) for his recommendation on the shock. I have the 8987 Penske. If you're riding a track that's really bumpy, you can use high AND low speed damping. Takes longer to setup but can be more useful in the long run. I don't really know that I can strongly recommend spending the extra $$$ (about $300 more) Max really does know the XB pretty well.

I can't help much on the XB12 motor recommendations (I have the XB9 bored to 3 13/16) but...

Bigger valves can't hurt. Manganese bronze guides.

Consider a bigger oil cooler.

Stainless valves seem to hold up better - get GOOD springs if you're spinning faster or running higher lift cams.

I use Jim's semi-solids and adjustable pushrods... I'm not sure that trip was necessary and it's a hassle to keep adjusting. The 12 spins at lower RPM's so I'd stay with the stock lifters/pushrods and save the hassle.

Cut some clearance above the valve/spring stack or they'll hit the valve covers (you can hand grind this or get your buddy to machine it for you) - if you are getting higher lift cams, you MUST do this. You'll really hurt the motor if the top of the valve stem is bouncing off the inside of the valve cover.

Change the oil pump gear to the bronze one NOW!!!
http://buell.com/en_us/gear/accessories/Product.as p?Menu_ID=2&ProductLineID=3&CategoryID=1&ProductID =3138

All for now - (still at work)
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Jimidan
Posted on Tuesday, January 30, 2007 - 09:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I would not let anyone do porting on this engine that has no experience with Buell motors. Most IL-4 engines do not need porting as they come from the factory breathing so well, according to Dan Kyle who builds lots of japanese race engines. So, how much experience has your friend got doing this? You can screw up more than you help if you do not know exactly what you are doing. If you just have to do it, get somebody who has lots of experience.

Why bother with porting anyway, they breath really well stock...spend the money on tires.

jimidan
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Rick_a
Posted on Wednesday, January 31, 2007 - 01:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A layman can get a few HP just cleaning things up, but a professional can get large gains, but also warrants large bills.
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