| Author | Message | ||
     Griffmeister |
Coming home from a ride started to hear loud rattles, clunks and knocks from somewhere under me. Pulled over, nothing seemed loose and sounded fine at idle. Tried every gear with brake on, each one was normal and up to this point operation seemed normal too. Got back on road and noise started again, irregular not related to engine speed or ground speed but sure sounded like it wanted to punch a hole in the case at any moment. Only happens when moving, even in neutral with engine off. Working on a way to get the rear wheel off the ground so that I can spin it and listen closer but wondering if anyone else has come across this? | ||
| Swanthog |
That is a really great riddle. Everything I can think of would change with engine/ground speed. While reading your post, my head went straight to an issue I had with my Drummer exhaust. Something internal broke loose -- sounded like an engine internal problem (probably why the guy sold me the bike). | ||
| Tootal |
If you take the engine/trans out of the equation then there is something loose on the bike or it's suspension related would be my guess. | ||
| Smorris |
IIRC I had a belt tensioner bearing begin to fail and it confused me where noise was. As you indicated rear wheel off the ground may help ID noise. | ||
| Tpehak |
The horn is loose. | ||
| Griffmeister |
Wheel bearing, after I drained and pulled the primary cover. Could not find any slop or noise, only with flashlight did I see cage coming out. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Hopefully that will be an easy fix. | ||
| Smorris |
3 bearing wheel? | ||
| Griffmeister |
Two bearing, but the outer race looks secure. Waiting for parts first then putting primary back together before tackling the wheel. Last time I had a shop to work in, now I have to figure how to do everything at home. | ||
| Smorris |
much ,much better at home than in parking lot. good catch before stranded or ruined wheel | ||
| Tpehak |
Let me guess, it is the bearing on the belt side? Belt tension ruins the bearings. It is better to use chain. | ||
| Whisperstealth |
>>>much ,much better at home than in parking lot. Yep! Or alongside the highway. | ||
| Griffmeister |
Noise happened five miles from home. Not knowing what it was but no other options rode rest of the way along the shoulder at fifteen mph. Yeah, working at home is better than outside. Just that when I retired I took what I considered to be the bare minimum of tools to cover most projects. Always come up short. | ||
| Arry |
I'm glad you posted this, as it came to mind when my Uly started making clunky noises yesterday. Sure enough, rear wheel drive side. I tried to knock it out today, but it wasn't budging. I've changed them a couple of times before, but it's been a few years. I think I caught it before any damage, other than the bearing itself. In the past I've torqued the axle to spec., but know I would not have broke it loose, on the side of road, without a piece of pipe for a cheater bar. Does anyone else think the spec. (48-52 ft.lb.) is maybe excessive? | ||
| Tootal |
It shouldn't be. My Harley is 100 ft/lbs! It has a steel sleeve, not an aluminum one like the Buell. If you're worried about it I'd say it would be safe to use only 40 ft/lbs. You have a pinch bolt keeping it from loosening anyway. | ||
| Motorbike |
Arry was the axle stuck due to corrosion between the threads and the swingarm? I always put a very thin film of anti-sieze compound on the threads before installing. So far, I've never had trouble breaking it loose. Tootal makes a good point, probably doesn't need to be super tight as the pinch bolt locks the axle from spinning anyway. As far as that aluminum spacer is concerned, it seems to me that over-torquing the axle could crush the spacer ever so slightly and this would cause side pressure on the bearings, which will lead to failure. (Just my opinion of course, I'm not an engineer) (Message edited by motorbike on June 01, 2023) | ||
| Tootal |
As far as that aluminum spacer is concerned, it seems to me that over-torquing the axle could crush the spacer ever so slightly and this would cause side pressure on the bearings, which will lead to failure. (Just my opinion of course, I'm not an engineer) You're are correct sir! Using the anti-seize on the whole axle is a good idea for corrosion reasons too. I've wondered if some of the bearing failures were due to crushed sleeves. I even considered making a steel sleeve but so far I haven't had any bearing issues. | ||
| Arry |
I'm thinking that a lower torque might be better. As pointed out, too much torque might cause side load on the bearing. Also pointed out, the pinch bolt prevents loosening. I do use never seize, so I don't know why it seemed so tight. | ||
| Fireboltwillie |
since this has turned into a wheel bearing thread, are alls balls a good alternative vs. oem? | ||
| Mark_weiss |
Axle torque does not just hold the rear wheel in place. Axle torque also squeezes the axle and wheel into a solid stack which braces the rear of the swingarm. All together, it forms a solid box. Low torque allows twisting. | ||
| Motorbike |
Mark, I never really thought about that but you are absolutely right. Torquing the axle properly also ensures that the inner races of the bearings remain stationary while the rest of the bearing rotates around them. | ||
| Mark_weiss |
For trackday fun I have a 2016 R1. Rear axle torque is 137 lb/ft. |
