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Dtm351
Posted on Saturday, August 06, 2022 - 01:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My 2007 Uly won't start. No fire at all. It was running fine before. I have done the following; new spark plugs, new plug wires, intake seals new, battery new, TPS reset several times, coil tests good, injectors are good and delivering fuel, new stator and regulator, cam position sensor good. I have checked and cleaned all the terminal connections I can get to. I have a Buelltooth and using ecmdroid I'm getting no error codes. There is no obvious ECM damage apparent. Any suggestions?
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Hughlysses
Posted on Saturday, August 06, 2022 - 04:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Have you checked for spark at the plugs?

Maybe try swapping the relays around and see if anything changes. A bad relay could make for weird symptoms.
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Dtm351
Posted on Saturday, August 06, 2022 - 06:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I pulled all 4 relays, did an impedance test on each, and cycled each one into the ignition position. I also checked continuity on each of the blade fuses. No change in operation.
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Dtm351
Posted on Saturday, August 06, 2022 - 06:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

BTW no spark since this problem started
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Dtm351
Posted on Saturday, August 06, 2022 - 06:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The check engine light cycles and goes out, the engine turns over, but never fires. Squirting gas/ether down the throttle body does no good. I was trying to see if there was a way to test the ECM other than using a diagnostic tool like the Buelltooth.
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Heavy18
Posted on Sunday, August 07, 2022 - 01:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You said you checked all the terminals you can get to, Iím assuming you cleaned all the chassis grounding pints under the seat near the fuse panel?

Have you checked continuity from the coil back to the ECM plug?

I also imagine you tried moving the ECM wire harness around while you try to start it?

Iíve seen people run a ground wire from the negative battery terminal to one of the mounting bolts on the coil but they say that just helps it run smoother, I havenít seen where it fixes a non-starting bike, but worth a try?

Has the ECM been relocated or is it still in the factory location? (And how many miles does the Uly have?) If it is in the factory location still with no added brackets to protect it then check for rub marks on the connectors.

If you are really suspecting the ECM you can CAREFULLY cut it open and inspect the solder joints on the connectors (most common ECM failure from what Iíve seen.) The potting clears off easily enough but be careful and use the right tool - I used a metal pic and did scrape the circuit board some but luckily I didnít do catastrophic damage.
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Dtm351
Posted on Sunday, August 07, 2022 - 11:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Heavy 18, thank you! I had done most everything you suggested except for moving the ECM around while trying to start it.

BINGO! Guess I'll splurge on a new ECM. I just didn't want to Shuck out $500 if that wasn't the problem.

That is what this forum is for. Thanks to everyone else who contributed as well.
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Heavy18
Posted on Sunday, August 07, 2022 - 02:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Excellent!

However, youíll want to rule out an intermittent wire connection before buying the ECM - maybe you already have. I also recommend cutting open the ECM and verifying the broken solder joints - if you plan to replace anyway it canít hurt.

Lastly, definitely shop around, I found a new in box ECM on eBay for $250 shipped. You just have to verify that it is the same model or firmware version as what is in your bike (or at least I think you should - I did and it worked right after plugging it in.)

Here is an image of my ECM cut open:





And here are the cracked solder joints - hard for me to see without a magnifying glass:





If you or someone you know is good with a soldering iron you can re-solder them, seal it back up and save some money!
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Dtm351
Posted on Monday, August 08, 2022 - 10:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Amazing that little bit of cracking would cause such a problem. Thanks for the additional information.
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Hughlysses
Posted on Monday, August 08, 2022 - 02:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Wow- I hadn't realized the price of a new ECM had jumped so much. Hopefully you can fix your old one.
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Littlebuggles
Posted on Tuesday, August 09, 2022 - 10:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Were you getting an error code/engine light when it was like that?
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Dtm351
Posted on Tuesday, August 09, 2022 - 11:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No codes, check engine light on instrument panel cycled and starter would turn the engine over, just wouldn't fire.
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Heavy18
Posted on Tuesday, August 09, 2022 - 11:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

FWIW - the symptoms on mine would only manifest when the bike was good and hot. My check engine light would come on but then it would go away after cooling down. I never had any stored codes.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Tuesday, August 09, 2022 - 12:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

One thing not on your list was the coil pack - have you swapped / tested that? If all you lost was spark, that's where I'd start. You should be able (it sounds like you know your way around a multimeter) to see ignition signal on the coil control harness. If you're getting firing impulses INTO the coil, you should be getting fire at the plugs. If you have signal, but no fire...coil is shot.

If you're NOT getting signal, you could have a bad cam sensor plate. You say new stator and regulator, which puts you in the wiring nest down by the front pulley - are you sure all those connections are still good?
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Firemanjim
Posted on Thursday, August 11, 2022 - 05:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

And the tip over switch---
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Whisperstealth
Posted on Monday, August 15, 2022 - 04:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had a problem with my X1 stalling out and dieing. Tried everything I could think of. Someone mentioned the Bank Angle Sensor(Tip Over Switch), early on, but I didn't follow through with it.

Long, Long, Long story involving trailers and pulling my hair out, short, he was right. I had inadvertently stuck the hook of a bungie net right into the Bank Angle Sensor, and it was causing some sort of short and killing the bike.

What a fricking headache that was!
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