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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » Archive through May 27, 2020 » Rear rotor bolt removal... « Previous Next »

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Billy_bee
Posted on Thursday, May 07, 2020 - 02:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Any tricks? I have used heat. A hammer and impact driver. I am about ready to drill them off...

And while we're at it, wheat the torque spec when replacing them?

TIA,
Bill
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Shoggin
Posted on Thursday, May 07, 2020 - 03:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

An impact driver like a pneumatic rattle gun? or an actual, or a real smack-it-with-a-hammer impact driver?

They are hardened bolts in a soft aluminum wheel. Good LUCK drilling them all perfectly. There should be loctite on them, but be careful with the heat. Powdercoat melts at 350*.

Theres no way they should be that tight. IIRC 30ft/lbs, but the free service manual will tell you for sure. You can find it at Buellmods.com or Buelltooth.com
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Billy_bee
Posted on Thursday, May 07, 2020 - 04:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I tried my 3/8" impact gun and no dice. Figuring I had nothing to lose, I heated the wheel, heated the nuts, and used my 1/2" impact gun turned up all the way with 125 psi behind it. They all came out OK, but some required every bit of force I applied.

I did scorch the powder coating while heating up the aluminum, but I got the rotor off. This wheel is a spare. I am ditching it for a 3-bearing wheel. The bearings were bad; so, it was time to swap it over.

Thanks for the tip on using the impact.

--BIill
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Billy_bee
Posted on Thursday, May 07, 2020 - 09:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just to clarify, I tried the old fashioned hammer and driver with heat. Nothing. Then the Snap-On 3/8" air gun turned all the way up with 125and then the 1/2" Snap-On gun. All using a propane torch to heat both the wheel and the bolt.

There was a crapload of died up blue locktite in the holes. A crapload.

--bb
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Tootal
Posted on Friday, May 08, 2020 - 11:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Those were a real pain to take off when I switched to the 3 bearing wheel. I actually broke my JC Whitney .02 cent torque driver that I'd been using for 40 years!! I replaced it with a Gearwrench model that uses a gear reduction so it puts more force on it. That and a 2 lb. hammer got all of them broke loose eventually! That aluminum corrodes and really grabs onto the bolts and along with Buell using red loctite on everything doesn't help! I cleaned the bolts on a wire wheel and used blue loctite when assembling.
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