G oog le BadWeB | Login/out | Topics | Search | Custodians | Register | Edit Profile

Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » Rear rotor bolt removal... « Previous Next »

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Billy_bee
Posted on Thursday, May 07, 2020 - 02:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Any tricks? I have used heat. A hammer and impact driver. I am about ready to drill them off...

And while we're at it, wheat the torque spec when replacing them?

TIA,
Bill
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Shoggin
Posted on Thursday, May 07, 2020 - 03:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

An impact driver like a pneumatic rattle gun? or an actual, or a real smack-it-with-a-hammer impact driver?

They are hardened bolts in a soft aluminum wheel. Good LUCK drilling them all perfectly. There should be loctite on them, but be careful with the heat. Powdercoat melts at 350*.

Theres no way they should be that tight. IIRC 30ft/lbs, but the free service manual will tell you for sure. You can find it at Buellmods.com or Buelltooth.com
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Billy_bee
Posted on Thursday, May 07, 2020 - 04:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I tried my 3/8" impact gun and no dice. Figuring I had nothing to lose, I heated the wheel, heated the nuts, and used my 1/2" impact gun turned up all the way with 125 psi behind it. They all came out OK, but some required every bit of force I applied.

I did scorch the powder coating while heating up the aluminum, but I got the rotor off. This wheel is a spare. I am ditching it for a 3-bearing wheel. The bearings were bad; so, it was time to swap it over.

Thanks for the tip on using the impact.

--BIill
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Billy_bee
Posted on Thursday, May 07, 2020 - 09:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just to clarify, I tried the old fashioned hammer and driver with heat. Nothing. Then the Snap-On 3/8" air gun turned all the way up with 125and then the 1/2" Snap-On gun. All using a propane torch to heat both the wheel and the bolt.

There was a crapload of died up blue locktite in the holes. A crapload.

--bb
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Tootal
Posted on Friday, May 08, 2020 - 11:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Those were a real pain to take off when I switched to the 3 bearing wheel. I actually broke my JC Whitney .02 cent torque driver that I'd been using for 40 years!! I replaced it with a Gearwrench model that uses a gear reduction so it puts more force on it. That and a 2 lb. hammer got all of them broke loose eventually! That aluminum corrodes and really grabs onto the bolts and along with Buell using red loctite on everything doesn't help! I cleaned the bolts on a wire wheel and used blue loctite when assembling.
« Previous Next »

Add Your Message Here
Post:
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a private posting area. Only registered users and custodians may post messages here.
Password:
Options: Post as "Anonymous" (Valid reason required. Abusers will be exposed. If unsure, ask.)
Enable HTML code in message
Automatically activate URLs in message
Action:

Topics | Last Day | Tree View | Search | User List | Help/Instructions | Rules | Program Credits Administration