|Posted on Wednesday, March 25, 2020 - 11:24 am: ||
Howdy all. I replaced my ignition tumbler several months ago due to bad contacts. It would sometimes allow the bike to start but not operate the tail and brake lights.
The new switch has been great, up until about a week ago. Now I can occasionally turn the key to ON and get nothing EXCEPT my auxiliary lights. No gauge sweep or fuel pump priming. If I jiggle it a bit all goes back to normal.
I inspected the old switch when it was off and it didnít look so easy to take apart, so Iím not too eager to tear into the new one. Ideas?
|Posted on Wednesday, March 25, 2020 - 11:37 am: ||
Check wiring diagram in service manual to see what could be wrong. Replace relays and fuses.
|Posted on Wednesday, March 25, 2020 - 03:01 pm: ||
Hey Portero, with an intermittent problem in the ignition circuit, I wouldn't be so sure to assume its the new switch.
Just a guess, but Buells can get a corrosion problem in the fuse box.
Pull out the fuses one at a time and look, shoot in some CRC contact cleaner and wiggle them around a bit, that can clean the contacts.
Do the same with the 4 relays in there. The relays are the same, so you can swap them around and see if it's a bad relay.
See if that helps and post up what you find!
|Posted on Wednesday, March 25, 2020 - 03:04 pm: ||
Oh, don't put "Di-lectric grease" in there (yet). Di-lectric grease is not a magic fix, it is an insulator and will create more problems in an already compromised connection.
Only use that grease in a new or fresh and clean connection to prevent further corrosion problems.
Hope that helps!
|Posted on Wednesday, March 25, 2020 - 06:59 pm: ||
The hardest part about getting the ignition switch apart is the removal of the switch itself.
Given you have swapped it out I'm guessing you have the right Torx etc.
I posted some info on the ignition switch many years back in this post.
I just looked it up and most of the pictures are still 'alive' - the back of the switch is held by a couple of plastic arrow-head type clips.
One of these is clearly visible in the second to last photo.
Depress them gently & lift the outer with a very small screw driver to ease the back off.
Just be very careful and do not force things as the pieces clipped over the arrow heads aren't that sturdy.
I would start with your old switch (assuming you still have it).
|Posted on Thursday, March 26, 2020 - 07:28 am: ||
Shoggin, thx for the ideas. A few of the spades were dirty and in need of cleaning. Didnít solve the problem, however.
Rays, great link! Iíll go socially isolate in the garage and give it a shot.
It definitely seems to be the switch. I can replicate the problem regularly. When I turn the key to ON, sometimes it seems to go too far and the bike stays silent. A few degrees back toward OFF and it begins priming, gauge sweep, etc.
|Posted on Thursday, March 26, 2020 - 08:26 am: ||
I would be concerned as to why you managed to produce two bad switches within a few months, whereas many of us have never had this issue.
Do you have something hanging from your key that bangs around or pulls on the key while riding? I always felt Buell could've mounted the switch in a better place. Myself I have a light, short, cord attached to the key and that is all. G
|Posted on Thursday, March 26, 2020 - 09:12 am: ||
I'd suggest you inspect Ground #4 (on the front of the steering neck), and make sure the connection is good, and the wires aren't breaking at the terminals.
My '08 was doing weird things; looking at the wiring diagram, all the actors were grounded at #4. Sure enough, the wires were either completely severed, or hanging by one or two strands.