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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » Brake rotor bolts « Previous Next »

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Ontheroad68
Posted on Friday, January 03, 2020 - 02:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Getting ready to install new EBC front brake rotor because mine is warped. The manual says to only use new rotor bolts, but after talking to Doug at St Paul he says they are now obsolete. Not Available. I'm assuming they want you to use new bolts because of the dry loctite they put on them but I really don't know for sure.

What'd you think?
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651lance
Posted on Friday, January 03, 2020 - 02:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Clean them and use BLUE loctite. Donít use RED, makes them to hard to take off later.
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Ourdee
Posted on Friday, January 03, 2020 - 02:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The bolt kit from EBR for their front rotor will work on XBs. Listen to Lance +1
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Ourdee
Posted on Friday, January 03, 2020 - 02:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I would almost bet your rotor is not warped.
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Ontheroad68
Posted on Friday, January 03, 2020 - 04:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Care to elaborate?
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Teeps
Posted on Friday, January 03, 2020 - 04:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes the dry locking compound is only good for one trip.
I reused the rotor bolts (EBR front rotor Race setup) and the rear sprocket bolts.

Clean, dry, a drop of blue loctite, then torque to spec, should be good to go.
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Arry
Posted on Friday, January 03, 2020 - 04:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The stock front pads would leave a residue on the rotor. This residue would cause a pulsing that felt like a warped rotor.
My Uly was very low miles and stock pads, when I bought it, and I had this problem. One thing you can do is use fine emery cloth to go over the disc surface, to remove any residue. This would be a good test, before you replace the disc. Most people changed to aftermarket pads. I have used EBC (FA345HH) pads (on my second set) and have had no more problems.
I think a lot of rotors were replaced that were not warped. Just my theory, not a fact.
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651lance
Posted on Friday, January 03, 2020 - 04:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you get your self a rotor hone in medium or course and they will clean your rotor right up. I use the course one any time I change brake pads on bike. They will remove all the rotor glaze.
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Ourdee
Posted on Friday, January 03, 2020 - 06:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There was a redneck way to fix the rotors. A hold my beer hail Mary fix. I fixed a rotor on th Uly this way. Clean dry roads on a nice day. Accelerate to over 60. Then very hard deceleration with front brake. In the last feet of stop feather off the front brake. Repeat another 5 times. After this always feather off the front brake when stopping. use the rear brake to finish stop and hold bike at red lights. Never use front brakes to hold bike at lights.

There is another source of a bad feeling front rotor. The fasteners that float the rotor can get dirt built up under them. The only part of the Buell I power wash is those fasteners and their pockets.

I always said that the build up on the rotor is operator error. If you replace the rotor and the problem comes back. There were cases of that. You may need to rethink holding the bike at lights with the front brake. My problem reared it's head because of a long downhill straight that had a stop light at the bottom. I would brake on the hill. Then get stopped at the light and used the front brake to hold it stopped during the red light. I looked at what cops did when stopped. Bike left in gear. Left hand on clutch. Left foot down. Right foot on rear brake. I wish I had a link to the video.
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Ontheroad68
Posted on Friday, January 03, 2020 - 08:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well shoot. I already bought the new rotor and pads and that wasn't cheap. Not sure If I'll buy a hone or just put the new one on since I already have it. Thanks for the feedback!
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Ourdee
Posted on Friday, January 03, 2020 - 10:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Put the new one on. Install new pads too. Save the old one. Lay it out and see if it is warped.
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Tootal
Posted on Friday, January 03, 2020 - 11:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I bought the 5mm rotor years ago. The EBC pads work great. Every once in a a while crank it up to 80+ and then brake hard. This cleans the rotor. I've never had a problem since.
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_buelligan_
Posted on Saturday, January 04, 2020 - 10:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

As well as what ourdee said about power washing the mounting hardware, as a preventative maintenance you can also use a rubber mallet from time to time and lightly tap on the rotor around each rotor mount to help break up/loosen any road or brake soot that builds up in the bushings and springs.
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Teeps
Posted on Saturday, January 04, 2020 - 11:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My experience with the front brake pulsating ended after installing the EBR race mounting hardware.

Prior to that I experienced the pulsating with stock and EBC pad sets.
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Ourdee
Posted on Saturday, January 04, 2020 - 04:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What Teeps said. I've used the EBR mounting hardware on the XT and the Scg without any problems. I give that hardware a big thumbs up.
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Ontheroad68
Posted on Saturday, January 04, 2020 - 08:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well, I cleaned and inspected all hardware, and re-used it with a drop of blue locktite on the bolts. Installed new EBC pads Sintered pads but will be a while before it gets a test drive as I have other parts of the motorcycle to put back together, Thanks for the tips!
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Bluell
Posted on Monday, March 09, 2020 - 01:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When I bought my used 2006 Ulysses a couple of years ago the brakes were pulsing pretty bad. I removed the front rotor and cleaned with brake cleaner and probably 100 grit sandpaper. Installed EBC sintered pads and the brakes have been good for the last 2 years. I did go ahead and change brake fluid while I was at it.
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Etennuly
Posted on Thursday, March 19, 2020 - 01:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My front rotor was so bad with the pulsing the mechanic, who looked me in the eye saying it was normal, damn near wrecked it in their parking lot on his test drive when he applied the front brake.

EBR 5mm rotor fixed it.

The reason the manufacturer recommends replacing many of the bolts is the lock tight product and not putting labor pricing on cleaning the stuff off to get a proper torque spec going back on.
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