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Archive through February 07, 2020Ourdee30 02-07-20  07:04 pm
         

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Evilphoton
Posted on Saturday, February 08, 2020 - 11:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ourdee - the intake gaskets are new but iím going to take the intake out and check anyway.

i realized last night after venting on here - sorry - that if this was a carb not running like this it would be clogged jets/too lean like an intake leak or still restricted fuel would cause. when i took the fuel rail out before that i didnít really pay much attention to the injectors. i bought a new set of originals offa ebay last night. this chassis has almost 60k miles and sat for at least 4 years. i havenít been through this situation with fuel injection before so this part is definitely new for me.
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Tootal
Posted on Saturday, February 08, 2020 - 11:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Before removing the intake try starting it and then using brake clean or WD 40 and spray around the intake and notice any changes. From what you're describing it sounds like a major leak. It took me 6 tries one Summer to finally get mine to seal properly. I don't know how you installed them so I'll just throw it out there. Lubricate the seals before installing and tighten the flanges evenly on both sides. Look for an even gap between the flanges and the throttle body. Don't over torque the flange screws. I replaced the screws with 12 point head screws. Made the job a lot easier! That's what was stock on Harleys back in the 80's.
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Ourdee
Posted on Saturday, February 08, 2020 - 04:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My first attempt at intake gaskets had to be re-done.
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Evilphoton
Posted on Saturday, February 08, 2020 - 05:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Tootal, i just did what you suggested. took it apart, put it back together by the shop manual. i think itís good.

so i changed my approach. what i was doing before was gassing it when it fired then gassing it more to keep it running. this time i just cranked it and didnít touch the throttle.
1. fuel pump primes and turns off.
2. cel goes out.
3. crank
4. it fires and idles for 2 or 3 seconds then dies. big backfire at the end.
5. repeats .... goto 1.
6. then i tried interrupting the prime by hitting the start button - well before it finishes.
6a. it fires a few times on each cylinder and thatís it.

itís like itís running on the pressure of the prime, then when the pressure drops it dies. iíve traced the wiring several times, the grey and brown/yellow wires to the fuel pump. grey goes to switched ignition. it shows battery voltage with ignition on. it also goes to several other places, injectors, coil. brown/yellow wire goes to ďfuel pump outĒ in the black connector. I canít figure out how this circuit works though. itís only got a few millivolts with the ignition on and/or cranking. does this wire actually control the fuel pump running or by the ecm completing or breaking the ground circuit? i canít hear if the fuel pump starts running again after the engine runs for its few seconds or not.

after the fuel pump primes and stops, it it should start running again when the engine starts right? i canít figure out how to test for that and i donít have the fancy diag connector to run the engine and monitor fuel pressure at the same time.

so there is switched power to the pump but i canít figure out how the rest of it works.
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Tootal
Posted on Sunday, February 09, 2020 - 12:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I don't know about ecm droid but in ecmspy there are diagnostics for the fan, fuel pump and several other things. If the droid has this you might go through all the diags and see if there's any failures.
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Evilphoton
Posted on Sunday, February 09, 2020 - 09:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

thanks Tootal iíll go back through them. i played with them the first time i got connected to the ecm, but iíll go through the list again and pay attention.
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Evilphoton
Posted on Wednesday, February 19, 2020 - 11:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

to confirm. the ecm works by creating a circuit to ground right? the grey wire hot all the time and when, for instance, it fires the front injector, the ecm creates the ground to complete the circuit on the ďinjector front outputĒ? i think this is the case just wanted to verify. thanks.
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Evilphoton
Posted on Saturday, February 22, 2020 - 08:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

replacement ecm is bad. original works, except it wonít connect to the laptop. now no charge, stator tests bad. NEXT!
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Tootal
Posted on Sunday, February 23, 2020 - 11:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Man that SUCKS! I've done mine too, I feel your pain. Some folks used gear oil in the primary since it's also the tranny oil. Some additives in gear oil will attack the stator wiring so never use gear oil. Harley Formula + primary oil is what's supposed to go in there but synthetic motor oil works well too. Any change in oil might cause your clutch to slip for a little while but usually will quit.
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Evilphoton
Posted on Tuesday, February 25, 2020 - 12:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

yeah, bit of a bummer but not too bad a job. i got the primary apart from the old engine and unbolted the stator. waiting on gaskets then i'll take the primary out of the engine in the bike for the stator swap.

next is the nest of wires under the windscreen for all the aux lights the PO put in. I'm going to return it to mostly stock and use LED headlight bulbs. i have LEDs in my vfr and they're awesome but 6500k is a tad blue, i'm hoping to find some 6000k

then...a stebel compact to wake up the texters...
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Evilphoton
Posted on Saturday, February 29, 2020 - 03:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)



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Ourdee
Posted on Saturday, February 29, 2020 - 03:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I thought about running a big air-horn off butane.
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Tootal
Posted on Sunday, March 01, 2020 - 10:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I bet that smelled good in there!! Love to see something Obvious!
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Evilphoton
Posted on Monday, March 02, 2020 - 12:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

little stinky! I remember seeing on St. Paul's website a comment about checking the clearance between the stator and the inside of the front sprocket. sure enough, when i put it together the bolts hit the little rivet and plastic fingers that hold the wires down. comparing the stators, the working one has a longer rivet and thicker plastic thing enough to interfere. i switched the rivet and plastic thing from the bad stator. just something to keep in mind for a replacement.

i found a nos right fork leg on ebay. current one is worn to copper and has pits within the range of travel. i'm pretty happy with the find.

the PO put led turn signals (and an led specific flasher) on, but I don't consider them bright enough. they aren't as bright as the incandescents in the honda. they are one-piece, the led is part of the mounting rather than a separate bulb so the whole stalk would need to be replaced. just wondering what others have found to be pretty bright.
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Ourdee
Posted on Monday, March 02, 2020 - 01:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've heard of running Whelen emergency lights as signals.
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Evilphoton
Posted on Tuesday, March 03, 2020 - 06:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

iíll check out the lights. thanks

question. if the harley firing is 315į/405į .... then why in my pic below are the injectors firing at almost the exact same time? is this ecm firing like a twingle somehow?

i took the video to look at the spray pattern from the injectors but then i realized the cadence should appear to be somewhat even, clearly one, then the other. what itís showing is that one injector is at best firing at a closed i take valve.

thanks for any input!




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Evilphoton
Posted on Sunday, March 22, 2020 - 03:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have the forks apart, since this whole project is great for social distancing...
i took the front rotor off to clean it since fork oil had dropped on to it. i used course emery cloth and a block and got it cleaned up and smooth on both sides, most importantly oil free. at first i thought the rotor mounting was cobbled as the hardware didnít match the repair manual or the parts fiche. turns out itís the ďraceĒ mounting. i sanded and wire brushed the hardware and wiped off the mounting spots on the wheel. i laid the rotor down on a piece of glass and it appears to be flat as a pancake. i took a slice of phone book paper and went the edge and all it caught was the edge of the rotor, no space. i checked the rotor on both sides, on both sides of the glass. iíve read several posts where the symptoms of a warped rotor are present when itís actually an inconsistent buildup of brake dust/residue. since itís all apart iím going to replace the pads with some ebc hh pads as theyíve been good to me over the years.

i hope you all are well. please keep with the social distancing, stay healthy.
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Tootal
Posted on Sunday, March 22, 2020 - 07:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There's a paragraph in the service manual about setting the adjustment screws before you put it back together. I missed it the first time I took mine apart. Seems you have to back them all the way out and then go in 20 clicks. Can't remember the exact details but it's in your book. Just don't read past it like I did!
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Ourdee
Posted on Sunday, March 22, 2020 - 11:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Good call on the ebc hh pads. They work great on the street.
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Evilphoton
Posted on Wednesday, March 25, 2020 - 12:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

hereís my repair on pits in the fork stanchions. i wanted to try repairing them after what iíve read about doing it. first i used a pick to dig out the pits, removed the rust and any loose metal. cleaned with lacquer thinner. mixed jb weld and worked it into the pits. i didnít slather it on the last time (took a couple tries) but took time working it in. i sanded it down with 1500 which took a while but they feel perfectly flat with the chrome surface with anything i rub across the repairs.



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Tootal
Posted on Wednesday, March 25, 2020 - 02:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

After I fixed a leaking seal I installed these: https://www.mooseracing.com/products/547621/produc tGroup/382291

Never had a problem since.
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Evilphoton
Posted on Thursday, March 26, 2020 - 11:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

that looks like a good idea! these are pitted in the inside, wheel side. the ďoutsideĒ of the forks are ok.

also, IT RUNS!!! i put the front end back together yesterday evening. i even went so far as to put the scoops and airbox on and put in the fuse for the lights. hey these are big steps for me.

i still have the ecm to deal with. the one in the bike runs, but wonít sync with the laptop so i canít do a tps reset or clear the codes. the other one i got is in good physical shape and connects but doesnít run the bike. i found some stock Ď06 Uly maps that iím going to try to burn to it.
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Griffmeister
Posted on Thursday, March 26, 2020 - 11:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Are there more pits higher up on the rod? Those look like theyíre just above the hub, I doubt that even at full compression they would touch the oil seal. Even so, the best thing is to be sure that there are no raised edges that can cut the seal. Good luck with the mapping, hope you get it to run on the new ECU.
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Evilphoton
Posted on Saturday, March 28, 2020 - 08:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

the pic is weird but itís from the bottom. some of the pits are right across from the top of the fender mount.

i took it for my first ride this morning finally! it has trouble at idle which iím thinking may be tps out of sync/maybe old gas. the suspension is so plush, it just floats. the power is crazy fun. the upright riding position means to me it takes a lot less work around town and provides better visibility although my 32Ē inseam is not enough. itís easy and nimble to ride in traffic. and it feels good at 100. iíll go out some twisties after i ride around closer to home more first, looking forward!
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Tootal
Posted on Sunday, March 29, 2020 - 11:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Idle rpm is very important. Over 1050 and it will hang at 2000 rpm and slowly return. Under 950 and it won't want to start when cold. If there's a lag or stuttering it could be an intake leak. Get it hot and then reset the tps also.
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Evilphoton
Posted on Sunday, March 29, 2020 - 03:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)



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Tootal
Posted on Sunday, March 29, 2020 - 04:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

On the road again! Good to see. Figure out the idle yet?
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Evilphoton
Posted on Thursday, April 02, 2020 - 01:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Tootal - I believe so, but i haven't really ridden it on the road yet.
I got another ecm. the previous one I got was, by part number, from an '04 (i didn't check good enough first). I don't know why but it wouldn't run right. it was a different type: BUEGB rather than BUEIB.
anyway, plugged in the new-to-me ecm. cleared the trouble codes, turned off the exhaust valve, noise abatement and did a tps reset then burned the changes. fired it up and it just purrrrres. i rode it around my driveway a little and it idles super smooth and stable and is far less inclined to stall just off idle when moving off from a stop.

i'd like to eventually try a custom map for a more open exhaust but definitely not there yet.
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Evilphoton
Posted on Saturday, April 04, 2020 - 07:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

bike is great. put about 200 miles yesterday and today. it's super fun. great torque, decent trans. super smooth ride. smooth idle, transition and power. slick cold start system with enrichment (and maybe timing?) only. got 41mpg running basically 85 with some in town and twisties.

i need to work with a few things. firm the dampening up a tad, it's a little wallowly in un-even turns. i'm going to try a couple different seats to get my feet down a little better. there's also a leak i think between the starter and primary case, hopefully the gasket or there's an o-ring that is further in the starter. possibly the stator plug but i had rtv'd that in like i saw suggested to do. i read this is a common area for a leak.
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Tootal
Posted on Saturday, April 04, 2020 - 11:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The owners manual has a basic set up for your suspension as per your weight. It's a good place to start. If you don't have the owners manual I can scan the chart and put it on here.
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Ourdee
Posted on Sunday, April 05, 2020 - 12:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Check the two allen head bolts on the lower fork that clamp the front axle.
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Evilphoton
Posted on Thursday, April 09, 2020 - 12:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Tootal- thank you, i hadnít paid attention to that part of the book :/ ill set the adjustments for the next time itís out of the garage.

Ourdee- checked, they are torqued to spec, thank you. itís probably because the dampening is too soft.
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Ourdee
Posted on Thursday, April 09, 2020 - 06:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)



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