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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » Archive through November 01, 2018 » 2006 Buell Uly side stand bolt size? » Archive through September 29, 2018 « Previous Next »

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Andrejs2112
Posted on Tuesday, September 11, 2018 - 08:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Anyone know what a replacement bolt size is that bolts the side stand onto the engine?
Mine fell off 200 miles from home. 😞
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Ourdee
Posted on Tuesday, September 11, 2018 - 09:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Teeps wrote this to Ratbuell in another thread.:
Rat, Here's what I did before the recall was announced.
Parts:
(2)Bolts, 1 1/2" Allen head alloy steel 5/16x18 (black)
(4)Washer flat, grade 8
(2)Washer lock, grade 8

Assemble two sets of bolts with 1 lock washer followed by two flat washers.
Place a drop of clean engine oil on the bolt threads and the washer stack.
Assemble and torque to 27lbs/ft.
Hope it helps.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Wednesday, September 12, 2018 - 09:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Reading this old quote and getting ready to mess with my stand again...it's been shown that the "flats" of the engine cases and the "flat" of the sidestand baseplate, don't always match / aren't always totally flat. Think front iso mount-to-head flatness issues.

I wonder if putting it together thusly:

bolt
lock washer
flat washer
baseplate
flat washer
engine case

might help alleviate any out-of-flat issues?
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Teeps
Posted on Wednesday, September 12, 2018 - 11:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

NO!
Do not place a washer between the engine case and the side stand.
Small as it maybe, the clearance that will be created between the engine case and side stand bracket, will provide a fulcrum and cause the bolt to break.
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Etennuly
Posted on Wednesday, September 12, 2018 - 06:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I agree. Bolt it up flush with factory bolts, lock tite, proper torque, and ignore it for forty thousand miles. Mine went 65,000 to be killed by a mistake.
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Teeps
Posted on Thursday, September 13, 2018 - 11:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Add:
If new factory bolts are "fresh" and have a coating on the threads, additional locking compound is not needed. Make sure the threaded holes are clean and dry. Then install the bolts and torque to spec in the recall service bulletin.

If the "freshness", of the bolts, cannot be guaranteed. Then remove the factory coating from the bolts and use loctite, I would use Blue.
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Ourdee
Posted on Thursday, September 13, 2018 - 01:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Do not use a tap to clean the threads. Q-tips and alcohol is what I use. Some people hacksaw a slot in a bolt as a tool.

I feel like I'm putting a warning sticker in the thread.
WARNING CAUTION: May break a nail or cause DEATH!
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Andrejs2112
Posted on Thursday, September 13, 2018 - 04:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Any tips on getting the old, sheared bolts out? Mine broke flush. I heated one up to 200 degrees and then tried an e-z out to get it out . Didn’t budge. Was afraid to heat it up hotter than 200.
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Ourdee
Posted on Thursday, September 13, 2018 - 04:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Weld a nut to it?
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Ourdee
Posted on Thursday, September 13, 2018 - 04:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Use a left hand twist drill bit.
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Etennuly
Posted on Friday, September 14, 2018 - 03:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Good sharp left hand drill bit straight up the bolt.

Bolt = very hard.

Case bosses = warm butter

Take your time, go easy,little bits at a time making sure the drill goes straight.
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Andrejs2112
Posted on Friday, September 14, 2018 - 07:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks. What size bit to extract a 5/16 bolt?
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Etennuly
Posted on Saturday, September 15, 2018 - 01:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

17/64. Don't miss!
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Etennuly
Posted on Saturday, September 15, 2018 - 01:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If ya can't find it in a lefty use a 1/4 lefty to bore center with hopes it will pull it loose.

You are exactly into what I ran into. I tried welding a nut on one. That got it super hot, with no luck unscrewing it.
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Andrejs2112
Posted on Friday, September 21, 2018 - 06:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I tried the left handed bit. Didn’t extract the bolt. So I just drilled out both bolts and tapped to 5/16” and put in some grade 8 bolts, washers and lock washers with red loctite and tightened to 27 ft lbs. in hindsight, the red loctite probably wasn’t the best idea, but hopefully I never have to mess with it again. 🤞🏻
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Ratbuell
Posted on Sunday, September 23, 2018 - 09:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well, gave the Uly some love tonight. Installed a stock X sidestand (I've been running a later XT stand with the bigger foot), with stock bolts. Split-lockwasher under each bolt head, clean threads, 27 lb-ft.

While the bike was on the lift, I put a pushbutton bypass (an old PIAA lighting harness, actually) with a relay, on the HID low beam. Start sequence kept dousing the HID, so I need the bypass to reset the ballast after it starts.

And, I installed a Hepco luggage rack on the factory topcase lid.

I debated drilling and tapping for 5/16" sidestand bolts, but figure I'll wait till I have to. Threads were too clean for me to go drilling bigger holes in the engine just yet ; )
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Teeps
Posted on Monday, September 24, 2018 - 11:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I would not use lock washers with standard length bolts... just say'n.
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Bfallon
Posted on Thursday, September 27, 2018 - 06:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Curious: Is there a design flaw with my '07 Uly kick-stand?

It is loose. Tightening works for a season.

And now I see all these posts about stands.

Is there a compatible kit that will replace the whole shebang?
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Teeps
Posted on Friday, September 28, 2018 - 12:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bfallon Posted on Thursday, September 27, 2018
Curious: Is there a design flaw with my '07 Uly kick-stand?


Yes
The '06 & '07 Ulysses have the two bolt flange.
The '08 and later use a 3 bolt flange.
The '08 > engines have different cases to accommodate the 3rd mount point.
The '06 & '07 bikes got the side stand assembly but still only used the 2 bolt mount system.

Bfallon Posted on Thursday, September 27, 2018
Is there a compatible kit that will replace the whole shebang?


Yes and no.
The recall side stand assembly addressed 2 points of weakness with the previous side stand assembly.
Add: the third mount point and change the pivot assembly.
The engine case was not part of the recall. So not our bikes did not get the full benefit of the updated part.
To that end, I rode my '06 Ulysses for 12 years after the local Buell dealer completed the recall repair. The side stand on my bike never loosened or failed in any way.
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Bfallon
Posted on Friday, September 28, 2018 - 03:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thank you for the in-depth response. The looseness of the kick-stand worries me -- a small thing, but for want of a nail the shoe was lost, etc.
I enjoy the bike, but if the kickstand fails while I'm on the road I'll have to lean it against a tree and I'll have to sit on it to gas up.
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Ourdee
Posted on Friday, September 28, 2018 - 04:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Or be proactive. I have a suggestion. Weld 2 pieces of pipe 2" long with a 1/2" ID. to the bottom of the muffler. Make a side stand that slips into those 2 sockets. There are other ways to make the sockets. Could just be a slot and a flat tab on the side stand that slides into them.
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Teeps
Posted on Friday, September 28, 2018 - 04:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bfallon, I should have asked if your bike HAS the recall kit.
If it does not; get one installed by any Harley dealer.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Friday, September 28, 2018 - 06:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Pull your bolts out (yes, you have to remove the muffler to do this). If they're not bent or otherwise damaged, put lockwashers on it. Some folks prefer the factory method of loctite on the threads, but in the case of a broken bolt (my thought is, anyway) the loctite makes it that much harder to remove the broken bolt. A mechanical lock under the head will be nullified if the bolt breaks and you should be able to easily remove the busted bolt if needed. That's what I did, anyway - see my post above. Recall bolts, lockwashers between the stand plate and the bolt head, torqued to 27 lb-ft with clean, dry threads.

No need to weld to the muffler - there's a hollow rear axle! You can carry a dirtbike triangle in/under your luggage, or just look for a stick the right size if the need arises while you're away from home. Or use an old lug wrench.

Me, any time I torque a "critical" fastener (sidestand bolts included), I grab some flavor of bright touchup paint. Put a dot on the bolt head, and an aligned dot on the part under the bolt head. Dots line up? Good to go. Dots don't match? Torque it before you ride. Caliper bolts. Axle bolts. Fork pinch bolts. Drain plugs. Clutch cover bolts. Handlebar clamp bolts. On my bike...they all have orange freckles! Makes for a quick pre-flight, though : )
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Ourdee
Posted on Friday, September 28, 2018 - 07:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That was what I was trying to remember. Thanks Joe. I saw a guy at HomeComing that carried his side stand in his backpack.
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Etennuly
Posted on Friday, September 28, 2018 - 07:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Joe I would add that if you choose to use lock washers get grade eight. The leverage on them would seem to wear on softer ones.

And that dirt bike stand in the rear axle.....the Uly X is too tall to get any comfort out of using one. The CG when standing still is pretty high. I used it, it worked, but only as a necessary evil vs leaning it on gas pumps etc.

It is difficult for an elderly weakened fat guy to balance a loaded tall Uly while reaching to install or remove it under the Side bags. I tried it at home without the bags and it was easier.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Saturday, September 29, 2018 - 09:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Could always cut a piece of allthread about 4" longer than the rear axle, run it through, nut-and-washer it in place so that it sticks out either side, and have something you can hook over it (a-la "spools") if needed...
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Ourdee
Posted on Saturday, September 29, 2018 - 10:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)



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Ourdee
Posted on Saturday, September 29, 2018 - 10:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oh, oh, oh. 2 triangles with washers in the corners, 2 all thread for bottom corners connections side to side. 2 4" bolts to slide through top corner washers and into each side of axle.
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Shoggin
Posted on Saturday, September 29, 2018 - 10:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Like this dirt bike stand?
I've used one on a fully loaded STT (saddlebags) and thought it worked ok.

https://www.amazon.com/OxGord-Universal-Triangle-M otorcycle-Stand/dp/B0713WHQML/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8& qid=1538230741&sr=8-15&keywords=dirt+bike+stands

(Message edited by shoggin on September 29, 2018)
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Etennuly
Posted on Saturday, September 29, 2018 - 10:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Problem with the Uly X is its height and balance point. The rear axle is too far back. Buell got the fore/aft balance position right. You need good firm level places to use the dirt bike stand in the rear axle. It works but is limited and scary.

There is a gap under the engine that is in line with the shifter pivot that could support a socket or tube, welded to the muffler, that would much better balance the bike.



Sorry about the angle of the picture, Android won't let it lay down.

If I must revisit this issue that is likely what will happen.
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