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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » Archive through November 01, 2018 » Exhaust valve actuator issues « Previous Next »

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Rnr
Posted on Tuesday, September 18, 2018 - 08:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Gang,
I saw an old thread showing how to use a little screw to fix the Uly exhaust valve actuator.
I did that.
But the actuator, which cycled once, doesn't seem to be doing so now.
Is there something else to check?
How do I set up my Uly to live without the actuator?
New exhaust?
Any help welcome.
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Tootal
Posted on Tuesday, September 18, 2018 - 10:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Is your actuator held together with screws for rivets?
If screws then you have plastic gears that will fail. If rivets then you have steel gears and they usually don't fail.
If you have the rivet one then I'd remove it and take the cable off of it. Don't rotate the actuator to remove the cable!
Now pull on the cable and see if it's free. If it's free then your actuator is bad.
If it's stuck then the cable or muffler valve is stuck.
Let us know what you find.
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Rnr
Posted on Tuesday, September 18, 2018 - 10:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Todd Seibt <todd.seibt@gmail.com>
10:45 AM (1 minute ago)
to epost

It's held together with screws. I've been in it.
The gears are perfect, the grease is clean, the circuit board isn't burnt.
The little nub on the actuator wheel was broken.
I replaced it with a screw, per another thread here.
The cable functions smoothly.
It cycled one time after I put the screw in; I got a mild pop from the intake and very minor pop from the exhaust. (I feared I had let loose the "blue magic smoke" from the circuit board, but it is fine.)
Now the actuator doesn't seem to work with the "key-off, run switch on, full throttle" maneuver.
But the check engine light has gone away ... bike seems to run fine at idle, ramps up nicely.
Will take it for a spin tonight or tomorrow.

Further thoughts?
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Tuesday, September 18, 2018 - 11:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mine stopped working too. I opened min up an also found nothing wrong.
I reflowed the solder connections while I was in there but it had no effect.

I am planning on doing the Dorman servo hack.
https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showthread.php?52942 -Disabled-exhaust-valve-actuator
I just haven't the time right now.
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Tootal
Posted on Wednesday, September 19, 2018 - 01:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I went through 2 of the screw type during warranty, the second one lasted 2 weeks. The dealer refused to put in a third one even though they were giving me old stock. The new rivet ones were out so I called Buell and they got the dealer to put the new type on and I've never had a problem since. That was in 2009.

So either try and find a new one or do the Dorman hack shown above.

Now if you decide to wire it open you will need to retune the ecm because you're going to lose low end torque. You'd be better off leaving it shut since it rarely opens in normal riding. If you run it on the track or like to ride at the higher end of the rpm scale then wiring it open would help.
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Ourdee
Posted on Wednesday, September 19, 2018 - 10:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It has a cable. Put a ten speed shifter on it. Then set it where you need it.
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