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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » Archive through June 14, 2018 » Joined the side of the road drive belt replacement club « Previous Next »

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Cupcake_mike
Posted on Sunday, May 06, 2018 - 07:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks to restlessrustle I had a spare in the saddlebag, 100 miles from home...
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Hughlysses
Posted on Sunday, May 06, 2018 - 10:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

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Littlebuggles
Posted on Monday, May 07, 2018 - 03:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Damn! Glad you were prepared!

How many miles on the broken belt?
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Cupcake_mike
Posted on Monday, May 07, 2018 - 11:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

35-40k? I didn't write down the mileage but it was about 2 years ago when I replaced the original belt (after it snapped around 25-30k) with the newest version. I've got 70k on the 06 uly now...bought it with 12k just over 3 years ago.
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Shoggin
Posted on Monday, May 07, 2018 - 01:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Dang! I thought I rode a lot!

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Cupcake_mike
Posted on Tuesday, May 08, 2018 - 10:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Work is 108 mile round trip and I try to ride if it isn't raining and above 40 when I leave the house....plus 1 or 2 5-10k mile trips a year and it isn't hard to hit 20k.

I have 3 other bikes I ride too, but the uly gets the lions share
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Smorris
Posted on Thursday, May 10, 2018 - 08:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

what tools did you have along?
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Ratbuell
Posted on Thursday, May 10, 2018 - 12:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I did mine years ago with only the Buell rollup tool kit. As far as I remember, you only need a couple hex keys (for the swingarm passthrough plate and if you want to loosen the tension pulley bracket), a couple Torx bits (for the belt shrouds), a ratchet and axle tool, and a hex for the axle pinch bolt. Pull the shrouds and access panel, loosen the pinch bolt, loosen the axle to the point where the wheel slides off the taper on the axle to give you room (no need to remove completely), install the replacement belt, retorque the axle (or get it close enough to get home on, and torque properly when you get there), tighten the pinch bolt, reinstall the plate and shrouds. My roadside replacement took about 30 min.
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Dtaylor
Posted on Thursday, May 10, 2018 - 01:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I wouldn't ride my Uly farther than I would like to push it without having the following under the seat:

Ratchets: 3/8" and 1/4" drive and extensions
T27 Torx (1/4" drive)
7/8" wrench
7/8" nut thing for axle
3/8" Allen driver for the axle pinch bolt
3/16" Allen driver to remove the footpeg mount
1/4" Allen driver to remove the swingarm brace
9/16" socket for idler pulley bracket (if needed)
7/16" wrench for side luggage bolt to footpeg mount

That, and a spare belt coiled like a bandsaw blade & zip-tied to the side rack.


There's a few other things in my underseat toolkit as well, like spare fuses, a Philips and slotted screwdriver, a stubby adjustable wrench (good for mirrors etc) and the metric wrenches and Allen drivers I need for removing/adjusting control levers and cable nuts. Oh, and blue locktite.

A sturdy pencil case holds just about everything!

(Message edited by dtaylor on May 10, 2018)
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Smorris
Posted on Sunday, May 13, 2018 - 02:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

was most curious about a torque wrench being toted along as part of the kit. thanks for replies
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Court
Posted on Sunday, May 13, 2018 - 03:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

QUESTION:

Could someone who has done this recently . . . or who has a cogent memory . . . write up a stop-by-step procedure?

I've never had to do it and have never changed a belt in all my years of Buell riding.

I'd like to have a 5" x 7" card in the tail box with the procedure and that list of parts on board if I ever had to.

Court
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Steveford
Posted on Sunday, May 13, 2018 - 04:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

1. Curse
2. Remove r/h footpeg support bracket (and luggage rack if fitted)
3. Remove front sprocket cover
4. Loosen rear axle pinch bolt, back off rear axle 15 turns
5. Remove idler pulley assembly
6. Remove swing arm brace
7. Remove lower belt guard, rear fender
8. Place belt over sprockets, attach rear swing arm brace
9. Pinch belt by front sprocket with King Kong's fingers, install idler pulley and tighten rear axle to 23-27 ft/lbs, back off two turns, tighten to 48-52 foot pounds, tighten axle pinch bolt
10. Install rest of crap.

To get the pulley back on I use a ratcheting strap around the belt and the frame right beneath the seat to give me enough slack. There's no way you can pinch that together with your fingers.
It's important to have the swing arm brace in place when you tighten or loosen the rear axle.
Supposedly you can break the swing arm if you do it without it in place.

(Message edited by SteveFord on May 13, 2018)
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Steveford
Posted on Sunday, May 13, 2018 - 04:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Axle Pinch Fastener, rear 40-45 ft lbs
Axle, Rear - 23-27 ft lbs, back off two full turns, then 48-52 ft lbs
Footpeg mount 132-144 INCH pounds, Red Loctite (they're crazy, use Blue)
Idler Pulley - 33-35 ft lbs
Swing Arm Brace - 25-27 ft lbs

If you carry an Allen and standard socket set, a T27 socket and one to fit the axle tool in the stock tool kit you should be okay. The ratchet strap would be a plus, too.

(Message edited by SteveFord on May 13, 2018)
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Giarcg
Posted on Sunday, May 13, 2018 - 06:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"I wouldn't ride my Uly farther than I would like to push it without having the following under the seat"

Add snips or a knife to the list... imagine being held up by no way to cut the damn zip ties holding the spare belt. That would be my luck.
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Cupcake_mike
Posted on Monday, May 14, 2018 - 10:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I would supplement Steve's list like this:

1. Curse as to why the wrist twisting isn't doing anything, pull over, walk around the bike then realize what happened, curse again
2. Remove front sprocket cover, remove 2 torx screws holding that side of the chin fairing to allow you to remove the sprocket cover easier.
3. Loosen rear axle pinch bolt, back off rear axle 15 turns
4. Remove swing arm brace
5. Remove lower belt guard, remove 2 torx screws that hold that side of the hugger on
6. Place belt over front sprocket and through the tensioner, and as much of the rear sprocket as you can, attach rear swing arm brace
7. Use your foot to hold the belt in place while you walk the bike backwards a few feet to "thread" it over the rear sprocket.
8. Tighten axle to snug, back off two turns, then retighten to really snug. Install pinch bolt for rear axle.
8. re-install rest of crap.

I keep a 3/8" breaker bar under the seat, along with a 1/4" rachet that I can plug a t27 bit and whatever size allen head the swingarm brace bolts are, I have a cutdown allen key that allows me to access the one right behind the footpeg mount. I carry a fully size hex key for the pinch bolt. Also the motionpro tool to remove the axle.

I dont remove the footbag or bag mount, its not necessary, just makes threading the belt through a bit more fiddly.

My list might not work as well if your replacement isnt "used" with a bit of stretch like mine is.

(Message edited by cupcake_mike on May 14, 2018)
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Dtaylor
Posted on Thursday, May 17, 2018 - 07:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


quote:

I have a cutdown allen key that allows me to access the one right behind the footpeg mount. I carry a fully size hex key for the pinch bolt. Also the motionpro tool to remove the axle.

I dont remove the footbag or bag mount, its not necessary, just makes threading the belt through a bit more fiddly.




Thanks for that -- great idea!
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Griffmeister
Posted on Sunday, May 27, 2018 - 01:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Many thanks to Steveford for posting all the torque specs here. Talk about luck, last weekend I put on 620 spirited miles with a few other guys at our annual ADK Buell rally. I had noticed a couple of times that it felt like the rear tire was slipping under hard acceleration, usually at higher rpm's in first and second. Thought today would be a good time to bring the bike into the shop and look things over. I didn't bring my manual thinking this was just going to be an inspection. Well, I get all the way there and heading around the back of the building when suddenly there's no response to the throttle. I look behind me and see the black cogged snake in the driveway. Good thing I kept a used spare in the side case for just such an occasion. If only I had decided to bring the manual, I really didn't want to tighten everything by hand then return home and re-torque it all. Then I remembered this post and sure enough it was all there. No reworking required. Thanks again.
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Steveford
Posted on Sunday, May 27, 2018 - 06:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You're welcome.
Popped belts really suck.
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