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Tempest766
Posted on Monday, April 09, 2018 - 02:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey gang.

Obviously I don't want to pay the HD price for OEM wheel bearings when the cartridge is a commonly available cross referenced part. There are actually ample online bearing suppliers that have 6006-2rs an d 6005-2rs bearings and at a wide range of prices.

Are there any particular industry recognized quality standards that I should be thinking about when ordering? I see differing materials listed for the bearing races and cages. Bargain basement suppliers have what I suspect to be chinese junk at like $3.00 per bearing, and industrial supply houses at nearly $50.00 per bearing.

Steel or chromium races and cages? Does this motorcycle application make a difference?

Actually I'm wishing I'd left the front bearings alone for a while longer. They were a bit notchy and the HD dealer gave me crap about them when I took the wheel in for a tire mount, but upon removing the bearings they are smooth as a baby's butt. I believe it was the dragging of the spacer along with them when turned by hand that made them seem notchy.

Anyway, front bearings are out, just bought a 1/2inch threaded rod, numerous stainless steel washers, and an elongated coupling nut so I can make a quick-n-dirty bearing press.

(Message edited by tempest766 on April 09, 2018)
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Tootal
Posted on Monday, April 09, 2018 - 07:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

As you mentioned, stay away from the Chinese ones. Never had any luck with them. Brands like Nachi, FAG, Timken and NSK are all good. There are others I'm sure but I've had a lot of experience with these.
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Griffmeister
Posted on Tuesday, April 10, 2018 - 02:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just make sure you're getting a bearing that's lubed with seals on both sides. Full part number should ensure this but always good to check specs.
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Dualsportdad
Posted on Tuesday, April 10, 2018 - 09:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I buy cheap $10 bearings, remove the dust seal, clean the bearing out and lube it with marine grease. Seems to be working so far.
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Smorris
Posted on Wednesday, April 11, 2018 - 09:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

how do you remove those seals and reinstall?
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Rays
Posted on Saturday, April 14, 2018 - 06:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have used the small blade on a pocket knife very successfully - the curved edge fits into the bearing radius nicely. Slide the small blade over the edge of the seal outwards, roll it carefully under the seal and pop a section of seal out. The rest can be readily removed once you have that start.
Obviously this can be done with the bearing mounted - I did this on the bench for the photos. On my old '06 I did that many times with great success,


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Dualsportdad
Posted on Sunday, April 15, 2018 - 10:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Exactly how Ray said but I use a small screw driver. Before doing so I make sure I have a few bearings on hand I can steal some seals from as I have punctured a seal before.
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Arry
Posted on Sunday, April 15, 2018 - 06:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Different manufacturers use different seal systems. Some are not easily removed.
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Dualsportdad
Posted on Sunday, April 15, 2018 - 07:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So far the ones I have bought all have the same seal type as stock. The stock ones come out pretty easily tho.
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Smorris
Posted on Monday, April 16, 2018 - 02:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

thanks. i'll try my hand on an old bearing and see how it goes. like the idea of using the bel-ray waterproof grease to upgrade the bearing. I have never reused single or double lipped external seals, just replaced, but usually only a couple dollars. just replaced a double stacked sealed bearing in the drive assembly of my triumph sprint at a cost of nearly $50. maybe should have tried this.
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Shoggin
Posted on Monday, April 16, 2018 - 02:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have had blown out wheel bearings on 2 of my Buell trips.

I would have happily paid $50 for that not to happen. Since Buell wheel bearing tend to fail catastrophically, I now carry spares and simple tools for the swap on the road because they never fail in the garage at home
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Nillaice
Posted on Monday, April 16, 2018 - 02:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I went with SKF
one I got was made in Italy, the other argentina.

externally, the Italian bearing looked like it had better machining; and a tighter radius on the edges of the races and a more polished face on the sides, so that one went on the drive/pulley side

haven't made any long 2-up destination trips on the new bearings but so far so good
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Hughlysses
Posted on Monday, April 16, 2018 - 04:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I went with SKF. One I got was made in Italy; the other Argentina.

This issue was noted in one of the earlier bearing threads. SKF has a long history of making some really good bearings, but now they can be sourced from several countries. It appears European-manufactured bearings are of better quality than those from other countries. If you're buying them from a brick and mortar store, you may be able to be picky and get the ones you want. IIRC, the last ones I ordered on eBay specified where they were manufactured, so that's another possibility. If you order them on-line from a bearing supplier, you're probably stuck with whatever they send you.
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Steveford
Posted on Monday, April 16, 2018 - 06:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm using SKFs made in Argentina which was a surprise to me.
No problems so far, I replace them around every 50,000 miles as a precaution.
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Tempest766
Posted on Monday, April 16, 2018 - 07:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I mail ordered Jap Nachi bearings from an industrial supply place in Wisconsin: 6005-2NSE and 6006-2NSE. With the threaded rod press I made, the front bearings slid right in. I then took mandatory 100 mile ride, ending with wings, IPA beer, and cigar. Haven' swapped the rears yet, but the front were pretty simple to tap out and replace. Waiting until I order a new drive belt before removing the rear wheel to swap those bearings. The sad thing is that the reason the front bearings fealt notchy was because they were up against the spacer and the spacer was rubbing the inside of the rim. After pulling the front bearings they were smooth as a baby's bottom. I'm convinced I could have got another 30,000 miles out of them if I would have just left them alone.
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