G oog le BadWeB | Login/out | Topics | Search | Custodians | Register | Edit Profile

Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » I like the updated fan logic! « Previous Next »

  Thread Last Poster Posts Pages Last Post
Archive through July 28, 2017Smorris30 07-28-17  11:28 am
         

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Tootal
Posted on Friday, July 28, 2017 - 12:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes. It keeps a lot of the heat from getting under the seat. Nobody needs their chestnuts roasting on an open fire!
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Hughlysses
Posted on Friday, July 28, 2017 - 01:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

After a few days of riding, I've noticed another advantage of the race ECM: easier hot starting. With the old ECM, the engine would occasionally kick back when starting after a stop, like after refueling. It might take a couple of tries to get it cranked. It's cranked smoothly and flawlessly every time since I installed the race ECM.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Rkc00
Posted on Friday, July 28, 2017 - 08:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Installed the K&an and the new ECM. Did the TPS reset and started right up. Took a ride around the house a few times. So far so good
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Rkc00
Posted on Wednesday, August 09, 2017 - 02:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

so far the bike is running good

(Message edited by rkc00 on August 09, 2017)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Rkc00
Posted on Wednesday, August 09, 2017 - 02:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Checking gas mileage tommorow
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Hughlysses
Posted on Wednesday, August 09, 2017 - 02:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just got back from 2 weeks riding twisties in western NC mountains. I probably averaged about 125 miles/day, and mileage was 45-47 MPG. That's a minor improvement over the stock ECM.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Rkc00
Posted on Monday, August 14, 2017 - 02:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

39 mpg for the first tank. Not much different. Seems to run nice though
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Rkc00
Posted on Wednesday, August 30, 2017 - 12:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok. Got to ride it last week at the WVBR. Runs good except I had the check engine light come on after getting on it with a WOT. light went off after 10 mins of riding. Bike ran fine during the time the engine light was on. This has never happened before to ECM change. Happened three times during the weekend. Ideas? I do not have any way to check codes
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Hughlysses
Posted on Wednesday, August 30, 2017 - 02:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The most common failure that causes an intermittent check engine light seems to be a failed actuator for the exhaust valve; it's easy to check. Remove the outer airbox to expose the actuator which is mounted on top of the inner airbox. Flip the kill switch off. Turn the ignition switch on. Rotate the throttle grip wide open and hold it there. Now, while watching the actuator, flip the kill switch on.

The quadrant on top of the actuator should rotate counterclockwise to pull the cable to open the valve, pause, then rotate clockwise to close it. If it doesn't rotate, or if it moves jerkily or not very much, the gears are stripped and it should be replaced.

The latest version of the actuator has metal gears. Earlier versions had plastic gears and were prone to failure.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Rkc00
Posted on Wednesday, August 30, 2017 - 02:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

How hard is it to replace?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Hughlysses
Posted on Wednesday, August 30, 2017 - 03:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Easy. Unplug one electrical connector. Disconnect the cable to the exhaust valve. 3 screws to remove. Reverse to install.

The bike has MUCH stronger midrange when it's working properly.

Here's what it looks like. The cable and wires are already disconnected on this one and the bolts have been removed.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Froggy
Posted on Wednesday, August 30, 2017 - 03:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'll have to doublecheck mine, but if I recall right, the CEL for the exhaust actuator is disabled on that ECM. You can run the actuator and it will use it, but it will not throw a CEL if it fails or is removed like a stock ECM.

Mike, it only takes a minute to check the codes using a paperclip. I'd be leaning towards a VR issue based on my passed experience.

Here are the directions for checking the codes: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show .cgi?142838/722928
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Rkc00
Posted on Thursday, August 31, 2017 - 10:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Maybe I can check it tonight. Thanks for the help guys. I will get back to you.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Smorris
Posted on Thursday, August 31, 2017 - 01:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

IIRC, manual states do not rotate the actuator manually, it will ruin the gear inside. loosen the cable adjuster to remove the cable
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Rkc00
Posted on Thursday, August 31, 2017 - 09:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Checked the actuator is working fine. Rode with the airbag cover off. It worked fine. No CEL with some hard pulls to WOT. Did not check for codes yet
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Rkc00
Posted on Thursday, August 31, 2017 - 09:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Got 45 MPG on the last tank of gas
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Nose2wind
Posted on Sunday, February 11, 2018 - 11:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have had an O2 sensor error cause an intermittent check engine light. You need to check the codes.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Littlebuggles
Posted on Tuesday, March 20, 2018 - 01:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for starting this thread, your information is just what I was looking for!
Has anyone here used the IDS reprogramming service? It's offered on the same page Froggy posted the link to.
My [new to me] 08 Uly is searing the meat on the inside of my right thigh, pretty much any time the bike is running, once the engine is warm...
Also, have you guys noticed any diff in frame temp after using the new ECM? The frame on this Uly seems to get a lot hotter than the frame on my 07STT did, might also be due to how infrequently the fan is running.

link for those not wanting to go back tot he archived discussion:
http://idspd.com/xcart/buell-XB12-08-09-non-cat-ec m.html
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Ontheroad68
Posted on Tuesday, March 20, 2018 - 07:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Newbie here, can you not download the "Race ECM" maps from Buelltooth? And why am I getting 33mpg?????
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Froggy
Posted on Tuesday, March 20, 2018 - 07:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

>Has anyone here used the IDS reprogramming service?

It is a fairly recent option, it is no different than getting a Race ECM and slapping it on. The reprogramming is a little cheaper as you are not buying an entirely new ECM, but your bike will be down while it is in the mail. Personally I rather have the stand alone ECM just due to how easy it is for the ECM to get damaged on the bike.

The stock 08+ bikes do run warmer than previous years, the Race ECM does help a bit with that.


Regarding Buelltooth, he does include pirated copies of some Race ECMs, so that may be an option depending on your ethics.

About the 33mpg, I couldn't say for sure off hand. Tire inflation, bad ECM programming, right wrist control, dead O2 sensor and so on are all factors.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Littlebuggles
Posted on Tuesday, March 20, 2018 - 08:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Great point about potential ecm damages Froggy, thanks.

New guy, welcome. You are running 91 or higher octane? They need higher octane due to compression, if you run low octane the ecm will push more fuel to fight pinging.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Froggy
Posted on Tuesday, March 20, 2018 - 08:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just a minor correction, The bike lacks a knock sensor (no Buells have one), so it has no way of knowing if you are pinging. It will just damage the engine, unlike a car where it will detect knock, retard the timing and adjust fuel accordingly.

That said, I've ran low octane fuel before on most of my Buells without issue, some will ping under heavy loads/hard acceleration, so 91+ is ideal but there is no harm in regular in a pinch.
« Previous Next »

Add Your Message Here
Post:
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a private posting area. Only registered users and custodians may post messages here.
Password:
Options: Post as "Anonymous" (Valid reason required. Abusers will be exposed. If unsure, ask.)
Enable HTML code in message
Automatically activate URLs in message
Action:

Topics | Last Day | Tree View | Search | User List | Help/Instructions | Rules | Program Credits Administration