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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » 2010 REAR WHEEL BEARINGS « Previous Next »

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Hangetsu
Posted on Sunday, June 25, 2017 - 06:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So, know this is one of those "beaten like a dead horse" topics, but I did a bit of searching and didn't come up with the info. I need.

I would guess that the bearings used in the 2010 3 bearing rear wheel setup are a standard size out there in the world of industrial sealed bearings. Do any of you know where these might be sourced outside the motorcycle parts industry? Is there a standardized code number or set of dimensions that can be easily searched?
Any tidbits of knowledge you're willing to share wold be greatly appreciated.

I've gotten the a point that I can no longer rely on the dealership for parts and can no longer justify $95/hour labor rates to keep my Uly on the road, so I'm always grateful for any advise I can get form all of you.

After my rear wheel bearings, my next project will be my rocker box cover gaskets. But I'll save that for another thread.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Cheers!

Alex
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Hughlysses
Posted on Sunday, June 25, 2017 - 07:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Alex- All Buell wheel bearings are standard off-the-shelf industrial parts, and the 2010 bearings are no exception.

The standard bearing size for them is 6206-RS2. You can go to a local industrial bearing supplier, order them off the internet, or even find them on eBay. I don't have a non-Buell part number for the separate exterior dust seals provided on the 2010 wheel, but you maybe able to reuse the old ones.

You can always order the OEM bearings and seals from Lance at St. Paul Buell/HD; he's a regular participant on this board. Their site is https://sphdonline.com/
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Hugie03flhr
Posted on Monday, June 26, 2017 - 11:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I did a whole bearing thread a few weeks ago. Pretty much covers everything including tools , bearing part numbers and what I experienced.
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/805838.html?1496933858
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Hangetsu
Posted on Tuesday, June 27, 2017 - 10:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thank you folks. That's pretty much what I wanted to know. I just bought a Harbor Freight slide-hammer/bearing puller kit, and I plan on doing my front bearings this weekend. My rear bearings are relatively new - changed them last November - but after commuting daily throughout the Portland winter, they are already feeling a little dry, and the inner races wiggle around a bit. I plan on changing them again before I do any more long, high speed rides.

Thanks again!

Alex
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Hugie03flhr
Posted on Wednesday, June 28, 2017 - 10:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Use a little heat around the hub but not too much to pull them out. I placed my new bearings in the freezer for a hour before banging them in with a lite coat of never seize. The slide hammer works great from HF. Idk if you checked out my thread but one of my new bearings were virtually dry, no visible grease at all!!! The video I posted shows how to pop the seal to check.
I've had motorcycles my entire life and I never had to replace a wheel bearing. I don't understand why these wear so rapidly but they do.... good luck
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Tootal
Posted on Wednesday, June 28, 2017 - 10:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I placed my new bearings in the freezer for a hour before banging them in with a lite coat of never seize.

Please don't BANG them in! Hitting a bearing can cause brinelling which is tiny dents in the bearing surfaces. This will cause premature failure. Use a proper installation tool that will hold the bearing square to the bore and put pressure on the outside and inside races equally since you are drawing the second bearing up against the center spacer. Freezing the bearing and heating the bore and anti-seize are all excellent methods, just don't bang on them.
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Mark_weiss
Posted on Wednesday, June 28, 2017 - 09:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"I've had motorcycles my entire life and I never had to replace a wheel bearing. I don't understand why these wear so rapidly but they do"

The wear rate that we see is because Buells use a high-performance bearing setup. The bearings in my Yamaha are of FAR greater capacity but also have way, way, way, more drag. I can't readily fit lighter, low-drag bearings to my Yamaha's wheels and there's no way to fit heavier, more durable, bearings to my Uly's wheels. It's a tradeoff.
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Hugie03flhr
Posted on Thursday, June 29, 2017 - 05:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I was being corky but even with the correct bearing tool most people have to bang them in and that's interesting about the bearing. I didn't realize they were performance oriented. I just thought the were at the rating limit and just couldn't handle the thump and torque of the V twin.
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