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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » Archive through October 10, 2016 » Rough running, surging, possibly bad fuel pump? » Archive through September 19, 2016 « Previous Next »

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Jhallgren
Posted on Wednesday, July 06, 2016 - 09:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have searched for hours to possibly find a similar solution on here but all symptoms were all different than mine. I just recently took a trip out Yellowstone and back in the first week of June. Was gone for 10 days and logged 2,964 miles. Bike ran great with no break downs. The only concern I had was about 5 days into the trip, my fuel pump was making an odd noise. Concerned me that it was going to die. I also thought it may have been from all the different gas stations I was filling up at along the way and clogged the filter. At one point I could hear a high pitch whine from the pump while the bike was idling which I can never hear the pump while its running. That happened for a day straight in the mountains but subsided on my way back. During that time, the bike would cough at idle when restarted hot. Once I rode for a bit, it didn't have this issue until I restarted it again when it was hot. Cold start was fine. I thought it may have been due to the altitude and the ECM not learning fast enough to conditions.

The pump now is making less odd noises but definitely has a different pitch when it primes before starting. Ok here's the weird issue, starting last Thursday, I noticed the bike starting surging pretty bad at 3,000 to about 3,800. Almost like a weak spark but not a dead miss. Its noticeably worse in open loop then closed loop. In traffic on light acceleration in first or second it almost feels like poor fueling or a super lean condition. I performed a TPS reset per the manual but that has not helped. Tonight it was also coughing and searching for an idle while hot. It also seemed low on power. Could the fuel pump be on its way out or the fuel filer being clogged cause this? Is there a way to check fuel pressure on the Ulys? I put in iridium plugs at 10,000. Those who are using the iridium plugs, what type of mileage are you getting out of your plugs before replacing them? I currently have 26,200 ish on the odometer. I have always been lucky and never had bad surging issues like others on here have had but it is really bad now. I am open to any advice or ideas anyone can give me to look into. FYI, checked for DTCs this evening via the blink read out and all i get is a rapid flash. Checked the manual and that appears to mean no DTC's.
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Tootal
Posted on Thursday, July 07, 2016 - 12:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The high pitch pump noise usually happens when I'm low on gas. At higher elevation fuel boils at a lower temperature so a low tank at elevation might cause the fuel to boil putting air in the pump causing the whine. A clogged filter would cause a vacuum which will boil fuel at an even lower temperature.

With it being down on power it could be a clogged filter but the coughing and surging at idle sounds like your idle control valve. I'm not too familiar with this valve as I have an 06 so I'm sure someone with a 08 or newer will dive in here soon!
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Jhallgren
Posted on Thursday, July 07, 2016 - 07:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Tootal for the response. Today on the way home I was accelerating lightly around 3800-4200, it seemed like it was falling on its face, then at 4200 with no throttle change, the power came back on. Kinda weird but is consistent. Maybe the idle control valve is sluggish causing lean conditions? I also noticed the last two days, intermittently while stopped at a light, when I shift to first, the bike stumbles for a sec. Never dies but odd. It did this 3 times in the last two days. not sure if its related to this issue.
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Twisteduly
Posted on Thursday, July 07, 2016 - 07:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sounds like the tps to me.
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Lyonne
Posted on Friday, July 08, 2016 - 08:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have a 2008 that has had very similar symptoms for the last 20k miles. My symptoms start a little earlier in the RPM range (about 3100). Jhallgren, if you go full throttle through this range, does the power oscillate? It does on mine sometimes and is very annoying if not dangerous.

I've replaced the oxygen sensor (twice). I have tried various temperatures of spark plugs. Neither solved the problem.

I can get it to go away by messing with the fueling in the ECM. However, it always comes back or I have to run rich in open loop. I can check the TPS on the computer and it looks good. I haven't checked the fuel filter or idle control valve. I'll research those next. I'm not thinking it is the fuel filter as it has been so consistent for so long.

(Message edited by lyonne on July 08, 2016)
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Lyonne
Posted on Friday, July 08, 2016 - 08:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Okay, I don't think the 2008+ models have a throttle control valve. Does an ignition coil issue make sense?
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Mark_weiss
Posted on Friday, July 08, 2016 - 09:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

2008+ bikes do indeed have an idle air control valve. Since your issues seem to be at an rpm range that is well off idle, I think that it would be unlikely to be the IAC.

Fuel pressure problems also usually get worse at higher rpm and larger throttle openings.

TPS problems can occur at particular throttle openings. Ignition issues can occur at particular rpm ranges. Vacuum leaks can cause problems under particular conditions.

I had a damaged plug wire that was difficult to diagnose, but quite obvious when seen.
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Jhallgren
Posted on Friday, July 08, 2016 - 04:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the responses. I will check the TPS and plug wires first this weekend. Will update you guys if I find any thing.
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Steveford
Posted on Friday, July 08, 2016 - 05:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Check the plug wire in a dark garage - you'll see it real fast if that's it.
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Jhallgren
Posted on Tuesday, July 12, 2016 - 09:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok quick question, anyone successfully checked the fuel pressure on the Uly's? I am not seeing any service port. Looks like I would have to make something to go inline with the fuel supply line to the throttle body. Saw the fuel pressure spec in the electrical diag manual and it said 49-51 psi. Checked the service manual but nothing on checking the fuel pressure specifically. The only thing I have not checked yet is the intake seals. Any suggestions are appreciated.
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Bikelit
Posted on Wednesday, July 13, 2016 - 02:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I made one with a used 1125 fuel line.



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Jhallgren
Posted on Wednesday, July 13, 2016 - 04:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mark, do you still have that? Do you have the locking hose barbs to connect to the fuel line at the throttle body or are you just sliding the clear hose over the end?
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Bikelit
Posted on Wednesday, July 13, 2016 - 06:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The clear hose is for relieving pressure. The crappy pic shows a male and female connector. You connect it in-line under the air box.
You can then check pressure either with the key on or while running. I can send a better pic if needed.
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Bikelit
Posted on Wednesday, July 13, 2016 - 08:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)



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Jhallgren
Posted on Thursday, July 14, 2016 - 06:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thank you sir, makes more sense now. Much appreciated. Do you know where I can get the short hose with the quick disconnect in your pic? I asked a few auto parts store and they tell me dealer only. Maybe I can get one from a junkyard.
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Bikelit
Posted on Thursday, July 14, 2016 - 08:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The short hose and both male and female connectors are uncut original 1125 parts. The long black hose also had a female connector which I cut off and installed the Tee. I'll loan you the tester if needed or I'm in it around $60 if you want to make an offer. Ebay usually has used 1125 fuel lines for around $25.
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Jhallgren
Posted on Friday, July 15, 2016 - 01:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mark, PM sent.
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Bikelit
Posted on Saturday, July 16, 2016 - 11:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Never got it...........
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Jhallgren
Posted on Saturday, July 16, 2016 - 03:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Weird. If you were willing to part with the pressure tester, I will take it for 60. If you want to hang onto it, i would like to borrow it if that is ok. Let me know.
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Bikelit
Posted on Sunday, July 17, 2016 - 09:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I would sell it for $65 shipped.

(Message edited by bikelit on July 18, 2016)
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Jhallgren
Posted on Tuesday, July 19, 2016 - 01:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sorry been busy the last few days. I'll take it. How do you want to do the transaction? Paypal or I can send you a check in the mail. What ever you would like. Want to rule out the fuel pump as the issue.
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Bikelit
Posted on Tuesday, July 19, 2016 - 11:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Jeremy, my email is in my profile page..........
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Jhallgren
Posted on Thursday, July 21, 2016 - 06:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Got your PM. I replied.
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Jhallgren
Posted on Friday, July 29, 2016 - 11:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok I checked the fuel pressure tonight. The pressure was 51 psi which is in the normal range. Thank you Mark for sending the pressure tester. Spec in the manual is 49-51 psi. Over the last few weeks, when I had time (kids and work take up a lot of my time) I was able to replace plugs, wires, I had a spare coil, and replaced it, and IAC. IAC has cured the the idle hunting when hot so far. Wires and coil looked normal. No signs of Arcing. Plugs looked normal but worn. Power is better and overall issue is better but still there. The only things I have had not checked was TPS, but did a reset, and ECM. Hard to check an ECM since it is sealed and the ECM was relocated before I rode it after replacing the parts. The ECM does have some movement at the connector where it tends to crack from seat pressure. Any suggestions? Should I try an ECM from IDS or test the TPS first? FYI I have no codes present from this issue.
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Jhallgren
Posted on Tuesday, August 02, 2016 - 04:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Anyone ever try checking the TPS from the ECM connector instead of directly at the TPS itself? I am thinking I am going to go with an IDS ECM at this point.
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Jhallgren
Posted on Friday, August 05, 2016 - 02:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Received the IDS ECM and installed it last night. Rode into work today, The Uly is much better and seems to have a little more power on the top end. Will ride it for a few days and report back if anything changes.
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Skifastbadly
Posted on Friday, August 05, 2016 - 04:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

May be unrelated but a couple of years ago I was in Montana when my 08 X crapped out. Leading up to that, it was behaving just like you are describing. The Missoula dealer thought it was the fuel pump and replaced it. But I don't think that was it. It was hotter than hell and I think what was happening was the seat plastic was softening and allowing the seat to press down on the ECM. Could be that.
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Jhallgren
Posted on Tuesday, September 13, 2016 - 09:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sorry I have not reported back in awhile. I injured my foot and was not able to ride for a month. I was able to get back on the Uly about a week ago. Bike is back to performing like I originally reported. The IDS ECM makes a difference though at WOT and medium acceleration. But the odd behavior of surging is back at cruising speeds. Something new I noticed and not sure if its related to the IDS ECM but once the ULY warms up fully, the idle will drop below 1,000 RPM when I let the clutch out to move up a little at a light or stop sign. This happens after I move and pull the clutch back in. It will stay at or just below 1,000 RPM for about 5 seconds and slowly move back up to around 1,100. Not a big deal but never had this with the stock ECM. Almost seems like a sluggish IAC, but i recently replaced that just before getting the new ECM. I also have noticed a few times last week, when I first start the bike and get into high idle, about 10 seconds in the warm up cycle, it will start hiccuping out of the intake. A blip of the throttle seems to stop it. Not sure if there is another underlying issue, or if the fuel pump is still the culprit. I did check the pressure and it is within spec from the manual. I also checked the intake seals while the Uly was running. I sprayed Carb clean on both intake locations and there was no idle change, stumble or idle raising. Doesn't seem like the intake seals are bad. I still have not checked the TPS. Not sure if it would cause surging like this. Is there an easy way to check the TPS at the ECM connectors or do I have to do it directly at the TPS connector? Anyone have any other ideas to check into? This is starting to frustrate me lol.
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Jhallgren
Posted on Monday, September 19, 2016 - 02:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No ideas? I am shaking my head at this as it is driving me nuts. I would hate to throw a TPS or a fuel pump at it. The Fuel pressure is at spec but I have seen pressure at spec and then it jump around after some time on vehicles. Kind of hard to ride the Uly around with a pressure gauge hooked up. Just looking for advice. Has anyone checked the TPS without having to remove the airbox base plate, possibly at the ECM connectors? Doesn't appear I could though unless some of you have successfully.
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Tootal
Posted on Monday, September 19, 2016 - 02:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You could use ecmspy to watch the tps numbers. As you twist the throttle they should look smooth. If they jump around the tps could be at fault.
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