| Author |
Message |
    
Tootal
| | Posted on Wednesday, February 03, 2016 - 12:45 pm: | 
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Like Froggy said, check out the stator because if it fails any one of the three test then it's bad and will take out a new VR. I know this from personal experience and learning from other's mistakes is a lot cheaper!
If you were revving the engine and the voltage went down it's not your battery. |
Uly_man
| | Posted on Friday, February 05, 2016 - 05:34 pm: |
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Yes check all the connections are good first.
Next bit. It is a "stone cold fact" that Li batteries are not good in the cold. You just need to do some research to confirm this and the reason I never use one. I see no advantage of using one given this and the cost. You also need a specific Li charger as well and cost big time. Any weight advantage could be outweighed with a big lunch or thicker leathers etc so thats no help either.
There is nothing wrong with the OEM AGM battery. But there are a few things that are needed to know. One, in my opinion, is that they can suffer from a "memory" effect something like Ni-Cads. This can be fixed by using a proper charger "designed for this type of battery" which will condition it if needed while on tender or re-charge. Also a AGM does NOT like to be run flat and may kill it if you do. Both Li and AGM batteries are NOT to be treated as with lead acid types because of the way they work. |
Phelan
| | Posted on Saturday, February 06, 2016 - 01:36 am: |
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It takes a lot of leathers to make up 11 lbs difference. Go the next size up on the Li-Po battery and you will greatly mitigate issues. I looked up my Ballistic battery and it's rated at something like 400 amps. I have to use Ballistic's advertised starting procedure in cold weather, but it always starts, even in 20* weather. And in 2 years I've only put it on a charger once. Everything else was just charge from the stator/VR. |
Mark_weiss
| | Posted on Saturday, February 06, 2016 - 05:13 pm: |
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I have Shorai batteries in two bikes. No failure to start or clock reset problems. Once each month I do check voltage to ensure that neither battery has dropped below Shorai's recommendations.
Since the '82 BMW is ridden once per week at most, it does occasionally get the Battery Tender for a few hours. The BMW is old enough that it does not charge at quite Shorai's recommended level, so the occasional use of the BT is not surprising. |
Medi
| | Posted on Sunday, February 07, 2016 - 03:42 pm: |
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Thank you for the battery input, it seems I might have a charging problem which relates to the battery.
So checked the 77 connector and it looks good.
Found this shaved wire nearby, which looks like is coming from alternator
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Arry
| | Posted on Sunday, February 07, 2016 - 06:15 pm: |
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Looks like that wire, grounding, could be at least part of your problem. If the wire (inside the insulation) isn't damaged, just wrap with tape and recheck your voltage output. |
Medi
| | Posted on Sunday, February 07, 2016 - 07:55 pm: |
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How do I check voltage coming from charging system?
I wasn't clear on the way the manual explains it... |
Etennuly
| | Posted on Monday, February 08, 2016 - 02:23 pm: |
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How do I check voltage coming from charging system?
Put a volt meter on the battery. Start the engine.
Your battery should be above 12.6V before starting. While cranking watch meter. It should do a downward load spike while starting. That should not go below around 9.6V momentarily.
Then, when your engine is running it should read approximately between 13 to 14 volts(considering a fully charged good battery). With no electrical load it should remain nearly constant from idle to revved up.
I have fixed several XB wiring problems like the cut in your wire. That can cause a charging problem. I had one like that that was cut into the edge of the chin faring that killed the engine when it got wet. Took several trips in the rain to find it. |
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