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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » Archive through April 21, 2016 » T-Rex Crash Bar Install « Previous Next »

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Joescrambled
Posted on Monday, January 25, 2016 - 04:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I installed the T-Rex crash bars on my 2009 XB12XT. I am including some pictures that better depict the attachments points for everyone. The chin spoiler was not in the way on the XT. This bar bolts to the engine, and the frame, so their is a noticeable increase in vibration up to 4000rpm or so.











(Message edited by joescrambled on January 25, 2016)
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Arry
Posted on Monday, January 25, 2016 - 10:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That does seem like a compromise, mounting to both the engine and frame. I wonder if it will get stress cracks, after a period of time?
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Bud
Posted on Tuesday, January 26, 2016 - 02:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i hope you never have to test it
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Tuesday, January 26, 2016 - 05:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The front isolator mounting bolts have now been compromised due to insufficient insertion depth.
Also, transmitting an impact's force directly to aluminum castings is a real engine destroyer.
I hope you prove me wrong but that's what I'm seeing in those pictures.
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Joescrambled
Posted on Tuesday, January 26, 2016 - 09:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

T-Rex provides longer isolator mounting bolts that are black grade 8. so the insertion depth is not compromised. Bolting it to a cylinder head, you are correct. A hard crash would destroy the head. But to be honest, the most offroading this bike will see is level b maintenance roads, and gravel roads leading to local wineries. Even with the scrambler with TKC-80's, I dont offroad nearly as much as I thought I would. These are more for low speed boo boos, a place to put on a pair of highway pegs, a coffee cup holder, and looks.
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Froggy
Posted on Tuesday, January 26, 2016 - 03:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A head is cheaper and easier to replace than a frame.
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Ourdee
Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2016 - 11:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Froggy,

I disagree. I could patch a frame in a walmart parking lot. The head would be an intense bit of wrenching.

I have noticed that 80% of the modifications that I do to Buells. I wind up reversing. The 20% that are keepers; Race ECM, SHINDENGEN FH020AA REGULATOR.

Dream money; Spares on a shelf.
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Phelan
Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2016 - 01:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Get a big plastic cup and a bungee cord around the triple tail. ¡Viola! Cup holder! Did that for over a year.

(Message edited by Phelan on January 27, 2016)
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Froggy
Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2016 - 02:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ourdee, if you crashed hard enough that this broke the head, you would have caused extensive damage to the frame without a guard. Some bondo and paint is not properly fixing the most important structural piece of the motorcycle. A replacement numbers matching frame is well over a grand plus time/labor to replace it. Replacing the head is a lot cheaper and less involved.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2016 - 03:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When I endo'd into the Corolla, I broke the rear head to heim joint to frame mount. And that was a stock setup, without any crash bars.

The frame, as far as I have been able to discern, is fine.
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Ourdee
Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2016 - 04:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Froggy, I don't use bondo. Epoxy, yes. Bondo , no. The scenario I contemplate is 750+ miles from home. What can I do to get home on the bike. Bondo and paint is like putting make-up on a broken arm. I'll build it a cast, or epoxy in a plate.
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Joescrambled
Posted on Tuesday, March 22, 2016 - 09:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My crash bar broke on the 305th mile of a very boring trip on i-80. It sheared in 2 places, and i ended up taking it off before it fell off on the side of I-80. I will not be replacing it until a better design is out.
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Daddio
Posted on Tuesday, March 22, 2016 - 10:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey, Joe-- Any chance of a photo or two of the broken piece, with, maybe, a post-mortem on how and why it broke? I put a set of T-Rex bars on mine this winter, too. Thanks.
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Tuesday, March 22, 2016 - 10:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It broke just being on the bike!? WTF?
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Joescrambled
Posted on Tuesday, March 22, 2016 - 11:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


broke 1

broke 2


as you can see, it broke near the frame, and near the engine mount. was not at any weld joint, and i dont care what the ad says, this is not 7/8 tubing, because things like my cup holder on my 7/8 handlebar are too big for this 7/8 tube. maybe its a different 7/8 inch measurement. Spanish 7/8 maybe?
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Tuesday, March 22, 2016 - 03:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Perhaps 7/8 of a cm? 8.8mm?

Carbon embrittlement perhaps? Suppose they used a torch to weld them?
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Boondocker
Posted on Thursday, March 24, 2016 - 10:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have the same crash bar... it was on the bike when I bought it and has broken in several places. It seems like the solution is additional gussets.

You can see pics of my bike here:



http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/779814.html?1457096754

I am planning on taking it to a welder friend of mine and gusseting the rest of the corners and reinforcing it with some additional tubing sleeved over a couple of places. I plan on using my bike pretty hard off road so I need this thing to work.



Cheers,
Claude
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