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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » BB&D Archives » Archive through April 09, 2009 » Fuel pump runs continuously » Archive through July 20, 2012 « Previous Next »

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Sanchez
Posted on Wednesday, March 11, 2009 - 10:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I noticed a bit of hesitation a couple of times while out riding Sunday, and when I started my bike to pull it into the garage later, the fuel pump didn't shut off after priming. I flipped the ignition switch, the pump primed, and then it just kept running and running.

A little searching here showed a problem with wires chafing on the fuel pump, so I took it out last night.

1. Remove the left side peg mount





2. Disconnect the wiring harness. The connector is behind the subframe rail. It's easier to reach if you take the seat off.

3. Start the bike and run it until it dies, then crank the starter for an additional 3 seconds to relieve pressure in the fuel system.

4. Remove the drain plug and make a huge mess.





5. Remove the fuel line (13mm nut) and the 4 hex head bolts (3/8").

6. The service manual advises use of a specialty tool to remove the pump, but I just wiggled it out with a couple of screwdrivers.





7. There is not enough clearance between the frame and swing arm to remove the pump, so you'll need to disconnect the lower shock mount and raise the bike up.



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Sanchez
Posted on Wednesday, March 11, 2009 - 10:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

And here's what I found:

















Tonight I'll heatshrink the wires, file down the sharp edges on the metal, and see if that fixes my problem.
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Hughlysses
Posted on Wednesday, March 11, 2009 - 10:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sachez- Thanks for posting that- very nicely illustrated.

Of course, that begs the question- is heat shrink tubing gasoline-resistant?
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Etennuly
Posted on Wednesday, March 11, 2009 - 10:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You would think that that could arc and blow the sumbich up. Must be under fuel is like under water, no oxygen to make it happen.
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Darthane
Posted on Wednesday, March 11, 2009 - 10:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sanchez,

I've little doubt that you've nailed your problem, and your solution should work.

The tubing is likely fine, but as an experiment you can just dunk one into some gas for a few days, pull it out and see if it still retains its elasticity.

I'd suggest getting some fairly small convolute to go over the wires as well as a further safeguard against reoccurrence.

Yes, to Etennuly. Fire requires oxygen. ; )
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Jphish
Posted on Wednesday, March 11, 2009 - 10:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sanchez - Nice job! Very clear, easy to follow illustration. You should write the Uly troubleshooting manual. What year is yours ? Has the problem been previously documented or is this a unique/isolated circumstance. Do you need to replace the O rings on the pump ? Sorry for your troubles - glad you werent on a cross country trip when it happened. j
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Jlnance
Posted on Wednesday, March 11, 2009 - 10:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the pictures, I just linked this thread into my New Uly Owner Thread.

I have had 2 06 Ulys, one which had the fuel pump fail like this, and another which I had fixed before it did. They heat shrinked the wiring and filed it like you did in both cases, and it seems to hold up just fine.
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Dpb
Posted on Wednesday, March 11, 2009 - 12:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes, fire requires oxygen. What happens when you run the tank empty?
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Darthane
Posted on Wednesday, March 11, 2009 - 01:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

...consider that motivation to regularly fill up. ; )

The pump housing may be electrically isolated from the bike's chassis.
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Mnrider
Posted on Wednesday, March 11, 2009 - 01:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Auto fuel pumps are in the tank and the wires are never sealed.
What month build units have this,maybe they found and addressed it in later 06.
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Froggy
Posted on Wednesday, March 11, 2009 - 02:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

They did revise the fuel pump, I don't recall when they started using the newer one.
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New12r
Posted on Wednesday, March 11, 2009 - 11:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Only fuel VAPOR will ignite, as long as the arc is submerged it will not fire.

Nice Job Sanchez.
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Lduly
Posted on Thursday, March 12, 2009 - 01:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Be extra careful not to mangle the o rings when you reinstall the pump. I put a little grease on it and it slid right in(the second time). I guess actually reading the service manual helps.
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Ft_bstrd
Posted on Thursday, March 12, 2009 - 01:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My pump took a dump before 1000 miles. They replaced it under warranty. No additional problems.
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Rays
Posted on Thursday, March 12, 2009 - 05:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Excellent post Sanchez! Thank you for taking the time to take the detailed photos.

Out of interest how many miles do you have clocked up?
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Sanchez
Posted on Thursday, March 12, 2009 - 01:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

> Out of interest how many miles do you have clocked up?

A little over 26k
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Paul56
Posted on Friday, March 13, 2009 - 12:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

And that is exactly why I would recommend this as a preventative measure to anyone who is capable of it. Mine shorted the power wire to the bracket and blew the fuse. After I got home and caught my breath I thought "a mile and a half is about the farthest I ever want to push this thing."
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Sanchez
Posted on Sunday, March 15, 2009 - 04:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Here's the new look:





We'll see how it performs after I get it back in the bike.
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Id073897
Posted on Sunday, March 15, 2009 - 05:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just for a comparison, this is the old type:
http://www.ecmspy.com/download/gunter/pump.jpg
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Sanchez
Posted on Thursday, March 19, 2009 - 01:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I put the pump back in today, and it fired right up with no trouble. Here's how I oriented the pump to fit it in past the swing arm:



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Buelllightening
Posted on Wednesday, March 25, 2009 - 05:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just for a comparison, this is the old type:
http://www.ecmspy.com/download/gunter/pump.jpg are you saying the OLD ones are Ok my bikes OCT 05 build and have not had a problem (14000 miles)
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Metalstorm
Posted on Thursday, March 26, 2009 - 12:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My 12Scg, Feb 05 build date had the same problem.

When both wires become nicked or chaffed, the ign fuse will blow pretty much instantly as soon a the key is turned on.
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Rays
Posted on Saturday, April 04, 2009 - 04:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sanchez, thank you very much for your well illustrated instructions! You are a scholar and a gentleman.

I have been planning to check this for some time but have been waiting for just on 3 months for the fuel-pump O-rings.

Anyway they finally made it so I tackled the fuel pump removal today as a proactive measure and it was straight-forward following the instructions above.

My June '05 build Uly has just over 46,000miles and I have have been just lucky not to have been bitten by this issue, the control line for the fuel pump was worn through the insulation and just into the copper. Both the fuel pump power line and the low-fuel sender wire were both worn but not through the insulation yet.

After looking at the way the wires are routed to run through the bracket that has sharp edges from manufacture this is not a case of 'if' this gives trouble, it is most certainly a case of 'when'.
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Wademan
Posted on Tuesday, April 21, 2009 - 05:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Man....

So if one was planning a 10,000 plus mile trip and their bike had about 15,000 miles on it at the moment this is one issue you would want to address....

Rhetorical question I guess...

Dang.

But you know it is cool that we Uly owners can eliminate these possible headaches before they become an issue. Thank god for the internets!
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Jlnance
Posted on Tuesday, April 21, 2009 - 10:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Wademan - It's definitively one of those issues that you should just fix. It's a whole lot easier to fix the pump in a planned manner, rather than 4000 miles into your trip.
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Caver101
Posted on Tuesday, June 30, 2009 - 11:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Awesome write up!

I have a 2007 uly (aug 06 build date) that has blown two fuses in the past month and has a momentary stall every 50 miles or so.

After reading all of this thread I think I have found my problem. Guess I am going to park it till I get a chance to work on it this week.
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Ubhans
Posted on Friday, October 23, 2009 - 12:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had the same issue and solved it by rerouting the wires (didn't bother with heat shrink or etc. as they are exposed elsewhere from the factory anyway) through a piece of 3/16 fuel line (clear type used on dirt bikes) that I slit down the side and tucked in the channel just above the one the OEM had them routed through! Now they all have extra protection!
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Jfman
Posted on Monday, June 18, 2012 - 10:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Does the uly have more swingarm room than the S model?

I cannot for the life of me remove the pump on my S model...

It's like the swingarm bottoms out on the droop. I dont see it touching anything anywhere. The belt inst tight, the tire doesnt touch anything (I can roll the wheel). It's as if the mounting point of the swingarm limited the droop but I cannot figure out how...

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Kvdog
Posted on Friday, July 20, 2012 - 11:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've been struggling with an intermittent stall issue for quite a while, and have been addressing it as though it were a heat aggravated electrical issue. What exactly are the symptoms of fuel pump wire shorting? Will the CEL come on and exhaust valve cycle when the bike cuts back in? Thanks
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Froggy
Posted on Friday, July 20, 2012 - 12:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


quote:

What exactly are the symptoms of fuel pump wire shorting




When it happened to me, fuel pump was running when it shouldn't, like after it finishes priming before I press the start button. It is one of those things that gets slowly worse and worse till one day the fuel pump tells you to take a hike. There is no CEL for it on anything other than 2010 bikes, as the ECM has no way of controlling the pump other than simply on or off, and it has no sensor.

If your CEL is coming on, something else is amiss, and given that your EVA is cycling it sounds like the ECM is booting up like it lost power.
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