| Author | Message | ||
     Smorris |
pretty sure this is not rocks in the dryer. last ride before storage did not have ear plugs in and could hear a chatter noise. i actually thought the belt was slipping- it is not. only occurs when lofting front wheel, not simply under hard acceleration. have free spirits tensioner and mueller e z clutch ramp as only drive train mods; oh also 2010 rear wheel. any ideas why this noise would occur in this particular circumstance? i recently refilled rear shock because had lost most preload adjustment. could there be something that is loose or unfastened that is shifting around when the front end is elevated? looking for a good place to start looking for the cause of this un nerving sound. thanks for any suggestions | ||
| Etennuly |
Hard acceleration like that can commonly cause a "spark knock" or "pinging". But if it only does it while lofting the front tire.....? Hmmmmm..... We found a long time ago that when the rear suspension bottoms out, like going through a dip type bump two up, the belt pulls the engine/transmission into its rubber mount limits. When doing so you can actually feel the engine's stroke pulses momentarily. It can be heard also, kind of like a vibration as if the belt's cogs were rubbing something for a split second. If you can feel the rear shock bottom out I could see this possibly being the issue. | ||
| Smorris |
thanks for reply. i have had the spark knock before and usually in hot condition, this was only warm (its cold here in iowa)but that is a consideration curious about rubber mount proposition. are you speaking of the front isolator? is this an indicator that the mount is bad? i actually inspected that as a possible cause- but visually appears intact while sitting still. i will lift bike and take a look as i remember someone had front isolator that was ok but the threaded sleeve that holds it into the frame had separated from the frame. and the rear shock, i only mention as the last service item completed but, if i needed to top off preload hydraulic could that indicate additional rear shock issues? will look at the front rubber motor mount (isolator). i see in service manual also the rear has isolator . i will see if i can get a visual inspection on it. appreciate the help in thinking through this. | ||
| Phelan |
That was me that had the threaded insert coming out. It was a side effect of multiple isolator removals from various changes. It's best to replace the insert and it's cheap, but instead I bead blasted it and put a fair amount of red loctite on the outer threads of the insert before reinstalling it. Do you have anything in the bags? I have heard odd noises only to find out it was luggage, like spare drive belt bouncing in the tail bag, etc. | ||
| Etennuly |
The rear isolator seldom goes bad. The vibes i was talking about come from maxing out the limits of the rubber in the mount. Not necessarily that it is a bad part. | ||
| Smorris |
ok, thanks for clarifying on the isolator. so far have not had isolator unbolted and, bags were off | ||
| Etennuly |
Usually you can look up into the rubber webbing of the front isolator and see if the webs are cracked. A sign of weakening for sure. | ||
| Advoutlander |
Is the ez clutch muller ramp worth it? How and what fluid did you put in the rear shock? | ||
| Smorris |
the ez clutch made big difference , it was worth it to me as i was using the bike to trap bugs on a grid pattern on a lot of rural gravel along mississippi river corridor. it was expensive but very simple to install. i used hydraulic jack oil. followed info found here. will look up info for link and post for you to review. it was quite easy and i have the full comfort kit. | ||
| Smorris |
as for the noise; i visually inspected isolators and rubber looks fine and intact. however the comment about what was in the bags got me to thinking about something loose rattling around. been loose for awhile but the bushings have gone bad in the triple tail from overloading. i'm wondering if that may be the problem-- it certainly was NOT dragging on the pavement or anything but just rattling around. | ||
| Smorris |
mark weiss 2-17-15 posted info on removing adjuster. after depressing the piston, refill and re install | ||
| Bud |
clutch basket transmission dampening springs bottoming out ? | ||
| Smorris |
bud, are you referring to the "diaphragm" spring(item #20) on the outside of the pressure plate and the spring damper(#21) inside of the 1st friction plate? are you indicating the clutch is simply out of adjustment? or what would be the cause of "bottoming out" | ||
| Smorris |
bud thanks for pm with clarification as i did not realize the clutch basket had springs in it. | ||
| Arcticktm |
Smorris, my thought was also about the "judder plate" in the clutch pack. I had this issue back when I replaced my stock fried clutch with an aftermarket plate kit that eliminated the narrow judder plate and matching spring washer with another set of normal plates. I would occasionally get a sudden jerking feel (I guess HD must call it "judder") under hard accel (when starting out suddenly). I fixed it by going back to a stock-like setup (adding back in the judder friction plate and spring washer). No experience with the Muller EZ clutch, but perhaps it chnages the engagement enough to make the it more prone to the sudden clutch slippage/grabbing like I was having due to eliminating the judder setup? (Message edited by arcticktm on January 11, 2016) | ||
| Phelan |
My understanding of the the EZ Clutch kit is that in order for it to work safely and effectively, clutch adjustment is hyper-critical. Without proper adjustment, engagement and/or disengagement can be off/improper, causing excess wear and possibly unwanted side effects in the meantime. | ||
| Timbobuell |
I see you have the 2010 wheel, however my 09 made the same type noise as the bearings failed. Don't know about the 2010 rear wheel, but 2009 rear bearing failures can result in death. Please pull your wheel and carefully inspect all three bearings. |
