| Author | Message | ||
     7873jake |
I usually bookmark "how to" and other helpful threads I come across for things like fork rebuild, fuel filter replacement, etc. In looking through the archives and my collection of bookmarks for the past 6 years, I don't see a single thing related to back brakes other than "they suck". Anyone have any caveats or links to rear brake rebuild threads? I discovered after a prolonged storage period that my rear brake fluid reservoir has gel boogers in it and the brake light doesn't come on when I depress it (front still lights the light though). I've disassembled the master cylinder and soaked/cleaned what I can with denatured alcohol while I wait on parts from American Sport Bike. | ||
| Xbimmer |
They don't suck so bad IMO, now that I've become used to the wooden feel. Reminds me a lot of the old Airhead rear disc, only seems to work right when 2 up and loaded down, I don't know why. If you've got crud in the master make sure you flush the entire line including the caliper. I normally use Valvoline synthetic DOT 4 brake fluid when I change it out, seems to do the trick and lasts. The brake caliper fasteners are metric. If the pad guide pin isn't seized and you get it out successfully make sure it's relatively smooth where the pads ride on it. If its worn you can turn it in all the way and back it out just a bit so the pads run on a new surface. The threaded plug will hold it there just fine with blue threadlocker. Or just get a new pin from Al (if he still sells them). You want the pads to slide freely on that pin. Remove both caliper pin bolts that hold the caliper to the mount. You want to loosen them first before removing the mount bolts in the swingarm. The caliper needs to float on those so get them clean including the recesses in the caliper. Clean everything you can in the caliper, if you're not replacing the caliper parts make sure you clean the piston well before pushing it back in. I use Permatex Ceramic on my brake parts now, on the floater pins, the pad guide pin, and the pads both on the backs and the contact points with the caliper and spring. http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categor ies/lubricants/specialty-lubricants-brakes/permate x-ceramic-extreme-brake-parts-lubricant-detail When reassembling ensure the spring and pads stay put as you install the caliper, sometimes a pad will jump off its little shelf at the front. I always clean the threads on the mount bolts to the swingarm and use antiseize on those, and torque them to spec. Don't forget to tighten the caliper pin bolts. Bleed the system. Check your work. If everything is good you should be able to grab the (cold) caliper and rock it back and forth a bit on its pins. When I used to just do a basic pad change without all this work I ended up killing a rotor because the caliper wouldn't move. Now even hot the caliper is able to move around on its pins which keeps everything cooler. Brake pads are personal choice. I've used EBC and Ferodo which grab well but vaporize too quickly for me. I've settled on Volar's which are very inexpensive but more importantly they work perfectly for how I use that brake. Most would probably not like them since they replicate the stock wooden feel but for low speed parking lot turns, trail braking, and 2 up riding they're excellent IMO. http://www.d2moto.com/2006-2010-Buell-Ulysses-XB12 X-Kevlar-Carbon-Rear-Brake-Pads_p_22621.html That's about it I can recall right now, good luck! | ||
| 7873jake |
Xbimmer, many many thanks for those tidbits. I went with Ferodo organics as I'm not a big consumer of the back pads. The bike has 17k on the ODO and the OEM pads are just fine but wanted to replace as much as I could while in there on this 'trip' so I chose those. Good to know about the pin float. Will keep an eye out for that. The OEM fluid reservoir has been stained yellow so I'm debating on replacing the reservoir through the H-D parts catalog as I noticed American Sport Bike didn't list the part on their website. Would like to see that part back white/translucent again. Thanks again! --Jake | ||
| Xbimmer |
No problemo! | ||
| Arcticktm |
Xbimmer was pretty thorough. A couple other thoughts based on me recently completely rebuilding my front brake master and caliper: It was pretty straight forward, no surprises. Got all parts from American Sport Bike. I'd really consider also doing the caliper if you didn't already, if you have gel in fluid. maybe you were already counting that as part of the job. I used the bleed method I found somewhere on internet (not sure if it was BadWeb?) that uses a large syringe to feed the new fluid from the bottom up. Then work it back and forth a few times. Seemed to work well and made the bleeding not as bad as I was afraid it might be. I also added a bleed nipple at the master cylinder (I was doing the front, not the rear). Maybe I'll do the rear over winter, but it is fine for now. My front had lost a lot of power and feel. the rebuild brought it back to new and made me realize how long I had put up with lame brakes. | ||
| 7873jake |
Articktm, I ordered the caliper bits as well (piston and seals) since I was concerned that the the goo had put in a change of address for that zip code also. The total for all of the pieces is around $100 from American Sport Bike. I had to go to the dealership for the new reservoir and tubing, $21. Now I just need time to get back in to it! --Jake |
