| Author | Message | ||
     Mark_weiss |
For quite some time I have been having difficulty with my turn signals not working. Usually, they would decide not to work when I found myself in heavy traffic. Naturally, every time I was able to open things up and make tests, the signals worked without issue. At one time I was certain that there was a harness issue. A few surgeries later, the problem persisted. Then I thought about grounding. After checking, cleaning, and adding, the signals would still occasionally not work. Then one day, my signals were not working AND my friend Denis asked "Did you know that your tail light was out?" That was the clue. A quick look at wiring diagrams showed that both circuits come together at the ignition switch. A little online research produced this thread ( http://www.buellxb.com/forum/showthread.php?13596- Ignition-Switch ) and I decided to give it a try. If you are methodical and patient, it actually is (just barely) possible to remove the switch/lock unit without disassembling the instrument mounts or removing the headlight pod. In hindsight though, I would have removed the headlights. Moving along, while it was a bit worrisome prying the switch from the lock, the two will separate and the switch comes apart quite easily. No flying balls and springs. Inside? Lots of fine grit. Cleaned and greased everything works much more positively and now, three weeks later, I've had no turn signal faults at all (and I suppose that my tail light is staying illuminated as well). | ||
| Djohnk |
I reworked my ignition switch a few years back, similar to what you did. I knew it was the switch simply because wiggling the ignition key replicated my problem (turn signals and a headlight if I recall correctly). I did some crazy things like melting the plastic by holding a soldering iron on the contact, and sliding a contact back out where it belonged (I suspect the heat from a dirty contact melted the plastic, and allowed it to sink in). Like you said, it's a little scary opening up the switch, but if your careful you can do it and get it back together correctly without damage. I am quite surprised its still working after several years. I had even purchased a backup used ignition switch which I have never used. (Message edited by djohnk on October 20, 2015) | ||
| Mark_weiss |
Once I had figured out the probable connection, I confirmed by wiggling the key when the turn signals would not work. This fixed the problem each time. So, the dissection of the ignition switch. I did not need to do any extra work, just thorough cleaning and a re-grease. | ||
| Djohnk |
I didn't even know this was available, probably smarter than messing with a worn out one: http://americansportbike.com/newdir/Item/17347 | ||
| Teeps |
$35 not bad for that switch component. I would probably still try to repair the original part first. | ||
| Tootal |
If someone does need to remove the headlights I offer a tip. Instead of fighting with the adjustment screw under the fender, just remove the two fender screws and take the fender and lights out together. When you go back you still have the same adjustment and those two fender screws are a lot easier to deal with than that dirty corroded one under the fender. Learn from other peoples mistakes, it's a lot cheaper!  | ||
| Djohnk |
Awesome tip! I definitely will try that next time, hate messing with the headlight adjustment all the time. | ||
| Hughlysses |
My ignition switch started acting up about 5 years ago (?) in the middle of an advanced MSF course. Turn key on- nothing happens. Wiggle it and try again and things work like they should. After a couple of incidents like that, I removed the front cowl. After carefully looking, I found at least one ~1/8" hole in the side of the switch assembly. I took a can of spray contact cleaner with a plastic extension tube and sprayed in that opening, and worked the switch a few times. It's still working great 5 years later. Nice to know that a replacement is available and priced reasonably though. | ||
| Mark_weiss |
Once you've gotten to the point in the process where you can replace the switch, opening and cleaning is only a ten minute process (maybe less). Looking at the simplicity of the internals, nothing spring loaded to displace, I doubt whether a switch would actually wear out. | ||
| Uly_man |
Just as a matter of interest. The lock and switch is made by ZADI. They are an Italian company who make the same system for many other bikes/ scooters including Aprilia and MZ. The base electrical part is always the same apart from its switching points IE If it has a parking light mode. All the keys are the same so if you need a spare do not buy the expensive Buell/ HD one just get a ZADI blank and have it cut. The normal barrel part comes in two forms for most bikes but the Buell one is much longer and may be specific to just Buells. |
