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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » Archive through December 24, 2015 » 07 Uly fork seals « Previous Next »

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Gunner01
Posted on Monday, October 05, 2015 - 10:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have a right side fork seal leak and of course i was leaving Friday for a North sore ride so wondering how tuff are they to rebuild and 2 if i cant get this done in time how bad would it be to ride with a slow leak?
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Arry
Posted on Tuesday, October 06, 2015 - 03:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It is a bit of a job and you need special tools (that can be fabricated). Do you have the service manual? The manual steps you through it pretty well.
Last year, I went on a trip (2k mi.), even though it had a fork leak. It got messy and ugly. I would stop at coin op. car wash, to clean it up.
There is a tool you can get at cycle shops, that slips under the seal lip, and is intended to remove dirt and grit that may be causing the leak (some have had good results).
You'd be happier if it wasn't leaking, but it might be hard to get it fixed before Friday. Don't know how many miles you plan, but if it's not a long trip, I would go for it.
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Hughlysses
Posted on Tuesday, October 06, 2015 - 05:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You can buy a "tool" to clean out the fork seals which will often stop a leak:

http://sealmate.net/

It's not too hard to make one from some suitable flat plastic if you can't find one to buy. It's certainly worth a try.
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Crempel
Posted on Tuesday, October 06, 2015 - 08:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I absolutely second Hughlysses idea. I bought one of these last year when I was "between garages" and had no where to work on my bike indoors. $5 and it was fixed in 10 minutes. Best fix it money I ever spent. If it still leaks after trying this, you're no worse off than when you started. BTW, it has stayed fixed for 10 months.
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Dfishman
Posted on Tuesday, October 06, 2015 - 10:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just did seals.No special tools needed.Youtube is your friend.
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Teeps
Posted on Tuesday, October 06, 2015 - 11:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hughlysses Posted on Tuesday, October 06, 2015 -
You can buy a "tool" to clean out the fork seals which will often stop a leak:


I use a .002" feeler gauge to clean the crud from the seals on dirt bike forks.
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Turf_moor
Posted on Tuesday, October 06, 2015 - 12:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I wouldn't ride with a leaking oil seal. The oil will probably got onto the brakes.
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Turf_moor
Posted on Tuesday, October 06, 2015 - 12:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I wouldn't ride with a leaking oil seal. The oil will probably get onto the brakes.
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Electraglider_1997
Posted on Tuesday, October 06, 2015 - 01:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My right seal just blew this past week and I didn't think to look until my front brake felt real smooth and weak. Oil all over rim, tire and brake rotor. This will be the 3rd or 4th time to replace the seals. Pretty sick of doing it. My son's 07 has never had a front seal problem, just my 06 over and over. At least I know how to do it from repeated experience.
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Crempel
Posted on Tuesday, October 06, 2015 - 02:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm telling ya, try the seal cleaning tool. My was gushing too and it was fixed in no time. The company claims that a very high percentage of "blown" fork seal actually just have a tiny bit of dirt or debris between the seal and the fork tube. You have nothing to lose. If it doesn't work, replace the seal.
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Hughlysses
Posted on Tuesday, October 06, 2015 - 03:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This will be the 3rd or 4th time to replace the seals. Pretty sick of doing it.

Craig- I had a leaky seal on the left fork leg of my bike, replaced it, and within a couple of months it was leaking again. Prior to the second seal replacement, I inspected the fork tube VERY carefully; after a lot of looking I found a couple of tiny rust pits (less than pin-head sized). The perimeter of these pits was slightly raised; you could catch them with your fingernail. I took a flat file and carefully went over each one. It didn't scratch or even mark the chrome plating but it knocked the edges off the pits. Then I took rust converter on a rag and "soaked" each pit, and painted each pit with frame touch up paint (it was handy and seemed appropriate). After it dried, I sanded it smooth with 1000 grit sandpaper.

~2 years later, no more leaks. I'm guessing those tiny pits were enough to nick the fork seal causing it to leak. It's certainly checking yours for something similar.
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Tootal
Posted on Tuesday, October 06, 2015 - 04:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Installing some Fork Skins will keep the crap from getting to the seals.
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/22172/i/moose -racing-fork-skins
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Electraglider_1997
Posted on Tuesday, October 06, 2015 - 06:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Crempel and Hugh,
I will try both of your suggestions and hopefully I will not end up changing the fork and dust seals. Certainly I'll have to add oil though. Thanks.
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Electraglider_1997
Posted on Tuesday, October 06, 2015 - 06:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just watched that Seal Mate video and will get one of those pronto and give it a whirl. To think that I probably have been changing out seals when they just needed cleaning, "Earth to McFly". I'll also check for any pits as you have suggested, Hugh.
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Smorris
Posted on Tuesday, October 06, 2015 - 09:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

if it leaks, it will get to your brakes
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Griffmeister
Posted on Tuesday, October 06, 2015 - 11:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had a similar situation earlier this year, ride coming up in a week, left fork leaking onto the wheel and a front head leak that was more important. Used the Sealmate and it worked for me, six months later and still dry. Some people say you can cut a piece of photographic film in a gentle hook to do the same thing, but who has film hanging around anymore?
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Gunner01
Posted on Wednesday, October 07, 2015 - 05:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thank guys for all the help! I will be ordering the tool and see if that helps but the damage is done already to the break pads so have those on order already.
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Motorfish
Posted on Wednesday, October 07, 2015 - 05:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I once used a piece of 35mm film and it worked great.
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Electraglider_1997
Posted on Wednesday, October 07, 2015 - 06:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I got the seal mate at Nebraska Motorcycle Parts. Their website says $4.95 but they charged me $5.95 + tax at the store. Crooks. That is why I rarely go to that shiester store. I know that it is only a buck but it is just a thin piece of plastic that must really be worth a nickel.
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Crempel
Posted on Thursday, October 08, 2015 - 01:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What would you expect from people who put an N for knowledge on their football helmets?
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Electraglider_1997
Posted on Thursday, October 08, 2015 - 08:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I used the sealmate. Then took the fork off because I had no idea how much fluid was left in it. Took the fork's top cap off and dumped out the oil. Pumped it and dumped out more oil. Poured in 18 ounces of HD Type E as per the service manual and put everything back together. Hopefully all is good. Couldn't find any pits to repair.
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Arcticktm
Posted on Friday, October 09, 2015 - 12:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm sure you know all of this, but in case someone who doesn't uses this info, measuring oil height to top of fork is more accurate than going by volume, since you never really know how much was left in the fork system.
Of course it's a little more work to remove the spring and fully compress the fork to get the factory measurement, but then you could install the spring and take your own custom "assembled" oil height for easier use in the future (with front tire off the ground for consistency).
For those like me who moved my '06 to the '07 springs, there are different oil height starting points than for the '06 as quoted below form an old "anony" post:
2006 Ulysses:
Single Rate fork spring 39 lbs / in
Oil level 113 mm from top with fork fully compressed (+ or - a few mm ideally)

2007 Ulysses:
Triple Rate fork spring 39 lbs / inch up to 3 inches of travel
59 lbs / inch from 3 inches to 5.4 inches of travel
84 lbs / inch from 5.4 inches to 6.5 (bottomed)
Oil Level 172 mm from top with fork fully compressed (+ or - about 8 mm no problem)
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Electraglider_1997
Posted on Friday, October 09, 2015 - 03:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Arcticktm,
Ideally I should have taken the fork apart but I really didn't want to do that so I just turned the opened fork upside down and dumped the oil and pumped out a bit more until the dripping stopped. The manual calls for a total of 18 ounces so that is what I put in. Seal is not leaking so the SealMate must of done the trick. I've had the forks completely apart at least 2 other times and they are a PITA so I only wanted to change out the fork oil since I had no idea the amount that was lost while it leaked.
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