| Author | Message | ||
     Billy_bee |
Can anybody tell by looking at this picture if the front motor mount is worn?  Thanks in advance, bb | ||
| Hughlysses |
That depends on whether the jack is supporting the engine or not. If the jack's not holding it up, the mount is probably OK as there is still some clearance between the large head of the mounting bolt and the actual mount. If the jack IS holding it up, you can't really tell. If you let the pressure off the jack and the mount drops and comes to rest on the head of the bolt, your mount is shot. | ||
| Billy_bee |
Keen observation, Hughlysses. Thanks. I'll check... bb | ||
| Etennuly |
Look up into the rubber webbing of the mount. Cracks in the rubber can let the vibrations and torque movement go too far sending vibrations through the frame. | ||
| Billy_bee |
Thanks so much for the heads up. The mount is toast. Have a new one on order. Anxious to run the bike again to feel the difference... bb | ||
| Panhead_dan |
you aint gonna like changing that mount.... | ||
| Nillaice |
replacing it is a simple task, but a common mistake is to cross thread the large bolt into the frame during re-assembly. all you have to do is get the alignment right. you can use your floor jack to adjust the height of the motor so that there is no side-load on the front isolator bolt and it spins out of the frame freely. then MAINTAIN that alignment (or adjust it for wear if replacing the mount with a new one) and re-assemble, starting those threads first. if you are doing this in your driveway on a dark & stormy night with tuba-fore's supporting the motor and the bike shifts, it can be tough to find the sweet spot where everything lines up and this is where most would make the mistake of cross threading the threads in the frame. here's a suggested sequence from a book I read ... 1. When repairs have been completed, rotate engine back up into frame. NOTE When installing and tightening front isolator bolt it is important to keep load off of isolator bolt for installation purposes. Alternate between tightening front isolator bolt and raising engine with scissors jack. 2. See Figure 3-8. Insert front isolator bolt (1) through front isolator (2) and loosely thread into frame. Do not tighten at this point. 3. See Figure 3-8. Install isolator mounting fasteners (3) and tighten to 49-51 ft-lbs (66.4-69.1 Nm). 4. Tighten front isolator bolt to 49-51 ft-lbs (66.4-69.1 Nm). 5. .... 6. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I just replaced that mount, it was pretty easy. Just get everything lined up carefully with the jack, don't try and force it with the bolt, especially not the first few turns. I have an extra mount I'll trade somebody for something interesting. I bought a used one a while ago from a part out (I think about 15k miles), and then bought a new one that I just put on my Uly to solve a rattle (which it didn't solve, and the one that came out, in spite of a major accident and 30k miles, looked fine). I don't need two "used but intact" spares kicking around. One's enough. I'd say I'll give you the lower milage one, but I threw them in the same box. So I'll give you the prettier one.  | ||
| Phelan |
Reep, something interesting? I may be interested if I can find "something interesting" for ya  . | ||
| Reepicheep |
Phelan, email me a shipping address... (bill at kilgallon family dot com). |
