| Author | Message | ||
     Reedo |
I just finished replacing the stator and voltage regulator in my 06 Uly. Buttoned it all back together and something is not right. I started it up and it wouldn't idle. I touched the negative battery terminal and it was super hot. I've already spent several hundred dollars on parts (that don't fit and have to be modified) and I'm really frustrated at this point because I've lost 6 weeks of riding season. Any ideas of what might be causing the negative battery terminal to get so hot? | ||
| Reedo |
The three wires that come out of the stator, does it matter the order they go into the connector? | ||
| Rapuckett55 |
No, the order does not matter. They are all positive of the 3-phase system. It gets ground thru the engine. The 2 wires from the VR DO matter! Make sure they are correct. Usually heat means there's a short somewhere and feeding way too much power thru the wire. Ralph | ||
| Billy_bee |
Heat comes from resistance. Check the gnd cable. If in doubt after a visual inspection, check the continuity of the ground. Check the negative terminal from a few good spots of bare metal anywhere on the bike. If you have high resistance, you may have a bad ground from the engine or frame to the battery. That will cause heat. You may want to add ground straps as insurance. bb | ||
| Reedo |
Thanks Ralph. There are two connectors coming from the VR. One is a three pin connector for the stator and the other is a two pin connector to the battery. Are you referring to that one? | ||
| Reedo |
I think I may have fried the new stator i just put in. The housing that contains the clutch and stator was also very warm. When I ran the resistance test across each of the three pins, I got zero readings and they should be between 0.1-0.3 ohms. | ||
| Griffmeister |
Depending on your meter I wouldn't be too concerned "yet" about the zero reading. More important ohm each of the three terminals to engine ground, that definitely has to be infinite/open for all three. Next, with three pin disconnected and engine running, measure A/C voltage at each pair of the three stator pins (1-2, 2-3, and 1-3). Not sure on the three phase but there should probably be close to 20VAC or more at 2000 rpm. If that's a no then maybe you do have a stator problem. One step at a time. | ||
| Reepicheep |
The stator runs full power all the time anyway. So it should be hard to kill. I suppose if the voltage regulator failed in such a way that the battery was shorted through the stator, that could probably fry one. But I never heard of that happening before, and it's hard to imagine one failing that way (seems to me the traces on the VR pc board would go to smoking craters long before the stator winding could fry, which would stop the current to the stator). It takes a decent meter to read .2 ohms. In fact, the leads to the probes for the meter itself is probably .2 ohms... so if it's not reading that with the probes touched together, it won't be able to see the stator resistance. | ||
| Arry |
I have seen (old) postings about new stators that didn't have clearance with the rotor (and took out the windings). It sounds like you may have known about this, in your first post you wrote of parts that don't fit and have to be modified... I hope this isn't the case, good luck. | ||
| Reedo |
Arry yes, I modified the POS stator HD sells to fit. Removed the clamp and rivet and used JB Weld high temp epoxy as recommended by Al at American Sports Bike. Griffmeister, I did get infinite/open on the other test of the leads to ground. I'll try the A/C voltage test this weekend. | ||
| Luftkoph |
http://www.roadstercycle.com/ Call this guy,forget about that junkie HD electrical parts,this man cured my buell electrical woes | ||
| Rapuckett55 |
The stator from roadcycle the one I installed last time. Perfect fit, and no modification needed. |
