| Author | Message | ||
     Kls |
I'm 450 miles from home and have a suspected bad stator. If I carry a friend's battery charger (2A/8A) with me and charge the battery at the 2 gas stops, can the Uly make it? Kind of like having my very own electric motorcycle... 2006 Uly Diagnosed with a crappy multimeter that shows non-infinite resistance from each stator plug pin to ground. AC test shows no increase with revs. Battery DC voltage does not increase with revs. I've removed the headlight fuse to reduce the running load but figure the fan will still be screaming along during freeway riding. Maybe I should unplug that thing too. Leaving tomorrow. | ||
| Hughlysses |
What made you suspect a bad stator in the first place? I don't think it will make it very far with a running fan, certainly not the ~180 miles of range the bike has between fuel stops. I don't think you want to run without the fan in summer weather. If you REALLY have to ride the bike, I'd buy a fully charged full size auto battery, strap it securely to the passenger seat, and wire it in. THAT might get you home. Buy the battery to fit a car you own so you can put it to use when you get home. I read a ride report on ADVrider a couple of years ago that rode a Honda PC800 all over Mexico using this setup. He put the battery in the luggage compartment and he could ride 8-10 hours a day without killing the battery. He'd charge it overnight at each stop and be good to go the next day. | ||
| Froggy |
Someone with a failed 1125CR stator did the marine battery on back of bike thing to help get him home. If the bike is a 2008+, pulling the headlight fuse will prevent the bike from starting, so you will need to disconnect the headlamps up where they plug into the wiring harness. 
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show .cgi?290431/653892 | ||
| Kls |
Froggy, that post makes me think I may be using the stop-and-charge routine a lot. | ||
| Tootal |
If you're mostly highway riding I would think you could unplug the fan. It might get hot when slowing down for gas but since you only have 450 miles to go it won't hurt anything. I'd get gas outside of large cities where you might get stuck in traffic. Easy off easy on and stay moving you should be fine. A fully charged battery should last quite a while running just the ignition and injection. A large battery like Froggy is showing would really be the way to go! At least you could use it as a backup once yours gave up, then you would know how long yours would last! | ||
| Ratbuell |
check/hardwire your 77 connector to see if it's the connector and not your stator. And get a voltmeter on the dash. | ||
| Etennuly |
Just so you know summer riding without a fan can be done safely, my fan went out 600 miles from home in 90F+ temperatures. When I rode in that way it was before I had the comfort kit on it. I never let it idle in traffic or in town. I frequently killed the engine and coasted into gas, rest stops, and into red lights and such, that allowed the air to flow over the engine as it was coasting in. Of course you may have to modify this plan a bit without the benefit of a charging system. I'd do the car battery as mentioned, cover the seat with plastic of some sort and let it rip! | ||
| Teeps |
Kls Posted on Monday, July 20, 2015 - How long will the Uly run total loss? Never done it; and I'd be surprised if it would run for a hour. On a fully charged OEM rating battery. | ||
| Griffmeister |
When my first VR died it went "open" so no charging. I rode the bike another 30 miles with one stop in between. The second stop was home, the bike was still running but by that time it would not crank after it was shut off. I would guess that a fully charged stock battery might keep the bike running for about 40 miles, not good enough. The full size battery trick would be the way to go. | ||
| Froggy |
If the stator is working but not at full output, (like lost two phases on the 3 phase unit), you would technically not be total loss and would still get farther than you would on a true total loss. For what it is worth, when the stator failed on my 1125CR, it only worked on one of its three phases, I rode it for about an hour after the check engine light came on. That was on the freeway at night with headlight and fans going. I got as far as I felt I could safely go then took an exit that had hotels/gas rather than risk it dying in the middle of nowhere. | ||
| Kls |
Thanks for all the input. The Forum comes through again. I made it home without any trouble...after installing a full-sized car battery as in the link that Froggy posted.  I got the same battery that my passenger car uses so I could use it if not returned, and disconnected the stock battery completely to reduce the need to get under the seat after everything was strapped down. The weather through CA was unusually overcast and mild so I didn't have any overheating worries. I even managed to get through the endless morass of LA with only a one-mile slowdown!  The engineer in me still wants to do a local run and see how long the OEM battery will last. Y'all will be the first to know if that happens. | ||
| Hughlysses |
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| Reepicheep |
Do it KLS! It's for science. (I deliberately overheated the front brake rotor on my XB9SX for science, a question that I can't even remember now, but it answered the question we wanted to know. I think it was about how much heat is transferred to the wheel from the rotor.) |
