| Author | Message | ||
     Jesse_lackman |
The engine sprocket bolt had blue locktite on it. Manual does not say to use new bolt but to use a few drops of red locktite on the bolt. Manual says the same thing about the transmission sprocket nut with a new nut being optional. Transmission sprocket nut 50-60 ft lbs engine sprocket bolt 155-165 ft lbs. | ||
| Tootal |
On those fasteners I would also use red Loctite. If you have a thread cleaner I would clean the internal threads and spray out with brake cleaner and then blown dry. I think you're going to like it! | ||
| Jesse_lackman |
It's done, old engine side bolt, old transmission side nut, both with red Loctite. Both were easy to get off. 160 on the crank bolt was enough to get my wife out to the shop for, didn't want to tip the bike over torqueing that one. The new bolt has a blue Loctite band on it but I decided to reuse the old bolt. attached is a picture of the old bolt. I thought it was interesting the manual recommends red Loctite when the factory used blue.  | ||
| Rayycc1 |
I think you'll like it too...This should have been done at the factory IMHO | ||
| 1313 |
I thought it was interesting the manual recommends red Loctite when the factory used blue. I can't say it's the case in this instance, but the color of pre-applied loctite is not always a direct correlation to the liquid, apply on demand loctite. I'm sure you'll stumble upon some instances where they are but it is not always the case, 1313 | ||
| Jesse_lackman |
Well after all I've read about how hard the engine sprocket bolt is to take out it was surprisingly easy. A normal 1/2 drive flex-head ratchet handle was all I needed. No souped up locktite was on that bolt. It was harder to re-torque than it was to loosen. One note I could make is that the snap ring holding the clutch release ramp thinger in should be new, that's what the manual says. I didn't have a new one and the old one seemed to have lost some of it's spring. It would not expand completely into the groove. I re-expanded it and rolled it in the groove without using a snap ring pliers so it's fine now. I think I'm going to order a new one just in case. You guys probably know how this works; if you have a new part in storage you will never need it - if you don't you will need it. Re-used parts seem to know if there is a replacement ready and behave themselves. One weird part is the fact the transmission and primary oil is the same with not many openings between the two. It seems the only way the oil drains out of the transmission is through the lowest transmission bearing you see with the clutch sprocket assembly off. Doesn't seem like there would be much oil circulation between the primary and transmission. | ||
| Jesse_lackman |
There is a transmission drain hole, you can see it under the starter ring gear;  | ||
| Jesse_lackman |
All I'm waiting for now are new spark plug wires!  | ||
| Teeps |
Don't worry, if you put a quart of Formula + fluid in the primary/transmission case, it will be fine. tens of thousands of XBs can't all be wrong. | ||
| Jesse_lackman |
I used Amsoil Super Shift racing transmission fluid in the primary. I took it out last night, it shifts better than it ever, a noticeable difference. Not nearly as clunky. Could have been the primary chain not adjusted right. The XB9 changed the RPM by 200-300, it's about 3200 in 5th @ 60 mph now. I put the race ECM on too but didn't really wring it out. It does run better but the rear spark plug wire was bad and got replaced at the same time. | ||
| Twobuells |
the only mods to my 2009 are a Race ECM and the XB9 Primary. runs great and fun wheelies! |
