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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » Archive through March 16, 2015 » Starting a thread about a starter (Or, if you've replaced yours, can you advise me?) « Previous Next »

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Skifastbadly
Posted on Sunday, January 11, 2015 - 05:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi kids,

As previously mentioned, my starter crapped out and I have a new one in hand. I have a handful of questions:

1) The lower right starter bolt is positioned just behind the gearwheel. I can loosen the bolt but when it is sufficiently out it hits the gearwheel...and thus cannot be removed. Is the proper procedure to leave it in place and just keep loosening until the starter is detached?

2) The service manual states that after everything's disconnected the starter should be removed from the gear cover side. This cannot be right.

3) Looking to pull the starter out from the right side, there's a ton of tubes & stuff in the way. Am I correct in assuming that all that stuff needs to be disconnected? It's odd that none of that is mentioned in the manual

4) When I removed the primary cover, I smelled that old burning electric smell that we associate with crapped out stators. Is it possible that this is an early indication of needing another stator, OR is it something that normally happens when the starter craps out?

Right now the bike is disassembled in the garage making and I'm leaving for a trip tomorrow, so any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Tempest766
Posted on Sunday, January 11, 2015 - 06:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Wouldn't be the first time the manual has given less than adequate information about how to service the bike...but no, haven't had the pleasure of changing the starter...yet. Wish I could offer something productive.
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Etennuly
Posted on Sunday, January 11, 2015 - 07:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It seems to me that if you take out the upper front bolt first, the lower one will push the starter out to the right side. I have not had to remove a starter, but I have loosened, resealed, and re-tightened one that was causing a primary oil leak. I used a torx bit, it kind of works like a universal in a partially hidden bolt situation.

I cannot see how the stink of a burned starter would get into the primary. The end of the starter inside the primary cover would have to be quite destroyed to expose the electricals of the starter on that side.
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Griffmeister
Posted on Sunday, January 11, 2015 - 11:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had my starter out two years ago with the engine in the bike. Had it out this past summer with the engine removed, much easier that way from a starter standpoint. I know you would prefer the former so from what I remember:

1)You can fit an allen socket between the teeth and I'm pretty sure the bolt will have to stay there.

2)Not sure what the manual is saying there, I believe there is only room to pull it out the right side.

3)Take a picture of how all the lines, hoses and wires are clamped and tied. You will need to move these. I think only the upper most oil line will have to be disconnected to give you enough room. Everything else is hose or wire so they are flexible enough to tie back. When it's all back together, make sure all those parts are secured and positioned away from the rear exhaust. I let my trans vent get too close and melted it the first time around.

4)Smell not good. May want to ohm out the stator leads to be sure, could save you from having to pull the cover twice.

A trip tomorrow? Did that include the bike? That would be pretty ambitious but good luck at any rate.
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Argentcorvid
Posted on Monday, January 12, 2015 - 09:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

1) a ball-end allen key fits. do the other bolt first, and then back the starter out with the one behind the ring gear. Once the starter was out, the bolt was just barely short enough to jimmy it around the ring gear. It's probably easier to just leave it in there.

do this after you rotate the engine or otherwise clear out all the crap from the right side.

2) They just mean you are detaching it from that case half, making it removable.

3) I had my engine rotated. The only reason I was taking the starter out was so I could replace the transmission vent line. that was a PITA, but it was pretty easy; not sure it would have come out without a lot of swearing with the engine in frame.

4) your stator is toast, or is about to be.
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Bueller_bueller
Posted on Monday, January 12, 2015 - 11:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I recently had the good fortune to watch FiremanJim replace mine. I watched him closely. First, a lift will really help. Next, you're right. A ball-end allen wrench is needed. Remove the belt cover. After that, he carefully removed the upper oil line on the right side, after removing the clip. This gave him just enough access to remove the connections on the back of the starter, and lift everything up so he could deliver the starter out the right side. Removing the lower oil line was not required.

I'd recommend that you use the 1.4kw Nippondenso starter that's been mentioned in previous threads. At $139 it's a bargain, and I'll attest that the added cranking power makes my Uly quick to start, with no hesitation.
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Teeps
Posted on Monday, January 12, 2015 - 12:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bueller_bueller Posted on Monday, January 12, 2015 -
I'd recommend that you use the 1.4kw Nippondenso starter that's been mentioned in previous threads. At $139 it's a bargain


Don't leave us hanging...
How about a link to said threads?
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Bueller_bueller
Posted on Monday, January 12, 2015 - 02:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sorry, Teeps. Don't mean to be a tease. Work is a bitch today. Here's the starter link, anyway... M

http://www.rareelectrical.com/p-9604-new-starter-motor-buell-xb9r-firebolt-xb9s-lightning-xb12r-xb12s-xb12xt-ulysses.aspx

(Message edited by Bueller_bueller on January 12, 2015)

(Message edited by Bueller_bueller on January 12, 2015)
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Xbimmer
Posted on Tuesday, January 13, 2015 - 09:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

2. "Gear cover side" and/or "gear case" in the manual refers to the cams, therefore the right case half, IIRC.
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Skifastbadly
Posted on Sunday, January 18, 2015 - 11:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well, I got the starter out and the new one in. It's a bitch getting moving stuff around. I still have to get the connectors connected and re-attach the oil line, and I've yet to test the stator. However, today is Sunday, and I never work on Sundays. Especially if I have tickets to the Packers/Seahawks game.


Go Pack!
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Pnw_uly
Posted on Sunday, January 18, 2015 - 07:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I blame you. . .

Noticed this thread, muttered a silent prayer to keep my stuff running. . . Stopped at the local dealership to pick up some oil, and kapow, the starter fails - - right in the freakin' parking lot.

Oh, and. . .



HAWKS WIN!!! HAWKS WIN!!! HAWKS WIN!!!
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Fotoguzzi
Posted on Sunday, January 18, 2015 - 08:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

those Hawks were beat for the whole game until about the last 3 minutes and then the OT, they revived .. a real nail biter..
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Monday, January 19, 2015 - 02:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey take apart the bad starter and let us know what you find.

Perhaps it's even fixable?
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Arry
Posted on Monday, January 19, 2015 - 02:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ski, Did you use a stock replacement or the "High Torque" replacement?
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Skifastbadly
Posted on Tuesday, January 20, 2015 - 01:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Arry, I ordered the starter from Rareeletrical, as referenced by Bueller above. I haven't yet wired everything back together as I'm still in a state of shock and physical exhaustion as a result of the historic collapse at CenturyLink on Sunday.
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Skifastbadly
Posted on Friday, January 30, 2015 - 12:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well I rode it yesterday and all appears well. There were several times during the process when I thought to myself "what the hell have I gotten myself into here?" but eventually I completed the repair. After thinking about it, I believe that the fried electronics smell may be left over from when my stator failed last year. I don't think I changed the primary oil since replacing the stator and so there was some residual stink in there...It wasn't overwhelming. During the test run yesterday I kept one eye on the Signal Dynamics voltage monitor and it glowed a nice steady green for 45 minutes. Knock on wood.

If you're going to replace your starter, here are a few things you should keep in mind:

Give yourself a lot of room, you're going to need access to the bike on both sides.

The bolt behind the gear won't come out all the way, and it doesn't need to.

You remove the bolts on the left (under the primary cover) and the starter comes out on the right.

The starter doesn't come out on the right without a whole lot of fussing and swearing.

On the right side, you need to remove the little clamp that holds the two parallel oil lines. Only the top oil line needs to be detached, and you'll need a flat wrench to loosen/tighten it. You'll never do it with a Crescent (adjustable) wrench.

Once you get the starter out, loosely attach the power cable to the new starter before you slide it in there...you'll never reach the bolt once the starter is installed. This means that if you forget that part, you'll have to, after spending 45 minutes jiggling this and that to get the starter in, remove it again to attach the power. Trust me on this.

I think I spent about 6 hours total on the project, spread over several days. Today's forecast is sunny and 50 so I think I'll have a longer ride to check it all out.
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Debueller
Posted on Friday, January 30, 2015 - 01:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I bought the high torque starter from rare electrical a couple of years ago.

About 4-5000 miles later the starter failed....it was blowing fuses on the primary curcuit.

I took the starter to South End auto wrecking in Renton and the guy tore into it and found that something was assembled wrong and a contact had shorted to ground.

He reassembled it properly and it has worked flawlessly for the last several thoundsand miles.
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Skifastbadly
Posted on Friday, January 30, 2015 - 01:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well shit, that harshes my mellow.
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Bueller_bueller
Posted on Saturday, January 31, 2015 - 12:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ski- at the risk of further injury to you mellow, you don't need a wrench to remove the top oil line. After removing the clamp that holds both lines, there's a clip that holds the tube into the plug. Remove it with a fine pair of pliers/a small screwdriver, and the tube pulls out of the plug, which remains threaded into the engine...
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Skifastbadly
Posted on Saturday, January 31, 2015 - 03:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ah fer chrissake, where were you when I had to go to the hardware store to buy a set of wrenches?
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Pnw_uly
Posted on Monday, February 02, 2015 - 04:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"I'm still in a state of shock and physical exhaustion as a result of the historic collapse . . ."

Now I know how the Packer faithful felt two weeks ago . . .

Good luck with the repair, bit the bullet since mine failed at the Harley shop - - so had mine done there. . .
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Biffdotorg
Posted on Thursday, August 04, 2016 - 03:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I hope you guys don't mind me bringing up an older topic, but it seems to be timely for me as my starter just took a dump this morning.

I wanted to order one of these Rare 1.4kw starters, but I noticed one user experienced oil leaks around that model. Any issues from what you have seen? The price is right, and a more powerful starter would be appreciated.

Thanks for your help guys. Links to videos or pics of pulling it out the right side would be appreciated too.

I am Googling badweb like a mofo as we speak!
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