| Author | Message | ||
     Ryat79 |
I was riding into work at 6am today and my Low Beam went out, I switched to the High Beam and it burned out 500yrds later. Luckily my Aux Lights worked fine and was able to get back home. I am guessing I have an exposed wire. Any other things I should check? I was going to start at the light and work my way back, is there a better place to look for a wiring problem? Thanks | ||
| Hughlysses |
Check the voltage with the bike idling; should be 13-14V IIRC. Bad voltage regulator can result in too-high voltage leading to blown headlights. | ||
| Froggy |
Blown headlights is a sign that the voltage regulator is failing. | ||
| Ryat79 |
Crap, I just replaced the Regulator 2 months ago with a new one. | ||
| Tootal |
Then you need to check the stator. If you have a shop manual then do all the stator test. If there is one failure then it's toast. Or you can remove the inspection cover on the primary and take a wiff! | ||
| Dean |
Check the ground on the steering head - Al told me to check that when mine were blowing & it WAS loose. Dean 615 545 1111 texts ok. | ||
| Steveford |
Mine did that and the cure was simply taking the switchgear apart and giving it a good blast or three with WD40 and clicking the switches a few times. All good ever since. | ||
| Maximum |
I had the same thing with my 2006 back when it had about 20,000 miles on it. Blown headlights...regulator replaced...then a month later the stator fails. But your bike is a 2008...wasn't the stator issues fixed by 2008? | ||
| Froggy |
Every motorcycle has stator issues, it is nature of the permanent magnet and solid state voltage regulator beast. Putting on a good VR like the switching CE-605 will extend the stator life, and give you less headaches overall. | ||
| Uly_man |
Yes what Froggy says. Fit a voltage monitor to the bike. It is good insurance for $30. | ||
| Ratbuell |
I run the Kuryakyn meter on my Uly. Years ago, it saved me serious problems when it alerted me the 77 was going. Replaced the connector the next day, before any other components could be damaged by a cascade effect. Last season, I started seeing wonky readings on the meter - so I performed a series of tests, which led me to a bad VR. I replaced the VR with a Shindengen MOSFET unit and I have NEVER seen readings this solid on that gauge! Through all this, with proactive repairs, I have never had to do anything with the stator itself because I've been able to fix the issue at hand before the problem can spread to other parts of the system. | ||
| Uly_man |
"Through all this, with proactive repairs, I have never had to do anything with the stator itself because I've been able to fix the issue at hand before the problem can spread to other parts of the system". I think this runs true for the rest of the bike as well and in particular the so called wheel bearing issue. For the most part basic "eyes-n-ears" maintenance is all that is needed on this bike. That and engine oil/ filter changes of course. | ||
| Ryat79 |
I checked the voltage at both lights and got 12.6V before I started the bike and 14.4V when it was running, I rev'ed the throttle and the voltage stayed at 14.4V, I then started to turn the front wheel and after a little bit the voltage dropped to less than 100mV. I am guessing the good voltage to start and the drop in voltage only after moving the front wheel points away from a regulator or stator issue and back to a wiring problem? | ||
| Hughlysses |
^ I think you're on the right track. Glad your stator and VR are OK. | ||
| Tootal |
Wow, good news! Glad to hear it. |
