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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » Archive through October 09, 2014 » Crud, grounded stator? « Previous Next »

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Archive through September 05, 2014Reepicheep30 09-05-14  07:51 am
         

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Arry
Posted on Friday, September 05, 2014 - 11:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Because there is only a small resistance leg to leg, all three will have about the same resistance to ground.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Friday, September 05, 2014 - 01:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Doh! You are right lArry... Thanks!

(forehead slap).
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Xbimmer
Posted on Saturday, September 06, 2014 - 11:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So consensus is "grounded stator" and "yes all three can reflect that ground"?

Still no stink in the chain case...
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Xbimmer
Posted on Saturday, September 06, 2014 - 02:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well here's a twist. I remembered that when I converted to the Mosfet I left the original (77-less) stock VR connector in place, so I hooked my old (failing) stock VR back up. Fired it up and it started acting just like before the Mosfet conversion, 1 green at idle, 2 greens about 2500 rpm, which soon after goes to red. Corresponding DCV readings at the battery show an increase past 15.8 which is when I shut it down.

Pulled the Shindengen and took it inside to check it against Jack/Roadstercycle's vid, my numbers were lower than his but still consistent and no anomalies during the diode test.

I'm friggin getting frustrated now, the stator apparently is working well enough to overcharge with the stock VR, the Mosfet checks OK, with the Mosfet installed there is undercharging at the battery when running. Arrgghhhh!
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Xbimmer
Posted on Sunday, September 07, 2014 - 01:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well guys, seems I don't smell so good...





Yep, guess the chain case oil did stink after all. After I had my wife sit on the bike so I could break loose the crank sprocket nut I handed her a rag dipped in the drained oil, which she pronounced as "Yuck, it smells burnt".

Disassembly up to this point was relatively easy, although that nut was on TIGHT, requiring a 4 foot pipe on the end of my breaker bar to loosen it. Was hoping the stator was OK but at least now I know what's going on.
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Tootal
Posted on Sunday, September 07, 2014 - 11:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What a great time to put an XB9 primary in! As I've said before, it seems the 06's were a victim of deadlines. Erik told us a story about how many of his vendors can't get him the quality he needed in the time he needed. I think some of them cut corners to meet deadlines as it seems the replacement parts last a lot longer! You should be good for a long time after you're back together.
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Rayycc1
Posted on Sunday, September 07, 2014 - 12:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

+1 on the XB9 gearing...Best mod i've done hands down
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Reepicheep
Posted on Sunday, September 07, 2014 - 01:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Let the healing begin! : )
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Rapuckett55
Posted on Monday, September 08, 2014 - 09:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you go back with a stock stator, make sure you check clearance. The bolts that hold the gear on the rotor may rub on the that plastic comb thingy. If you buy from Al, he'll send you an email with pictures to show what I'm talking about.

The previous owner of my bike changed out the stator and it died on me the first day I rode to work. Turns out it had a clearance problem and tore up the new stator that was installed maybe 250 miles prior. When I bought a new one, I took off the plastic comb and epoxied all around that area.

Ralph
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Electraglider_1997
Posted on Monday, September 08, 2014 - 10:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Xbimmer,
Maybe too late but here you can replace the stator for $99.95 + $5 shipping and handling.
http://www.roadstercycle.com/
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Xbimmer
Posted on Tuesday, September 09, 2014 - 11:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the tips. Already bought the stator from American Sport Bike and talked to Al about the retainer issue. When it gets here I'll compare thickness dimensions.

The Roadstercycle stator interested me, but when I contacted Jack and inquired whether it fit the XB's his response was that it was for the Harley engined Buells. I took that to mean Tubers but now that mine is out it looks the same including the plug. Guess I should have asked better questions but at the time I wasn't thinking it was the stator.

I don't mind spending a bit more for the American Sport Bike part, the personalized support is more than worth it.
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Xbimmer
Posted on Tuesday, September 09, 2014 - 11:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Anybody think I should change the crank seal while I'm in here, or is that possible without case-splitting?

And I hope the Shindengen is OK, although it checks out fine per Jack/Roadstercycles vid.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Tuesday, September 09, 2014 - 11:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Definitely possible to replace the crank seal without splitting.

I never had one fail on an XB (two now with 30k+ miles). The one on the M2 went at about 25k miles. It wouldn't be crazy to replace it, but it may not be necessary either.

You need to rig a tool to make sure you don't seat it too deeply. To get it out, I recommend two sharp drywall screws through the face of the seal and a yank with pliars. Be gentle to avoid hurting the bearing.
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Griffmeister
Posted on Wednesday, September 10, 2014 - 12:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If it's like the 08, the seal needs to go in just far enough to install the snap ring. Also supposed to use a new snap ring and new spacer when you change the seal.
I like the screw removal idea, have used that many times myself. I prefer pan head sheet metal screws as they have a nice flat surface under the head to get a pry bar under.

Then again, like Reep said, it's probably okay if undisturbed, just keeps the engine and primary/trans fluids separate.
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Xbimmer
Posted on Thursday, September 11, 2014 - 10:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Update on my new HD stator:

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/748598.html?1410443975

I WILL get my bike running again!
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Al_lighton
Posted on Friday, September 12, 2014 - 12:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Dean,
Just to make sure you know, the service manual says 190 ft-lbs for that nut, but there is a tech bulletin (pops up here on badweb all the time) that says it's now 240-ft-lbs. Make the shaft and the nut squeaky clean with brake cleaner, and slather with red loctite. It sucks when that nut comes loose. Not that it's all that hard to fix, but until you do, you're not quite sure if your crank has let loose, which is quite the sinking feeling..
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Reepicheep
Posted on Friday, September 12, 2014 - 02:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Been there, done that!

(gong-gong-gong-gong-gong-gong-gong)
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Xbimmer
Posted on Saturday, September 13, 2014 - 11:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Guys thanks, think I'll leave the seal alone for now.

Al, thanks for the reminder on the torque value. Slathering red thread locker it is! I don't know what a loose crank nut sounds like and I don't want to know...
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