| Author | Message | ||
     Electraglider_1997 |
High beam just went dark. Just replaced h7 bulb a few weeks ago. Any ideas why this keeps occurring? | ||
| Etennuly |
Most likely the Voltage Regulator, secondly bad ground or bad switch. | ||
| Etennuly |
Do a charging test at the battery at idle up to 3000. I don't recall the spec but it should never go above 15 or so volts. It is an early sign when the headlights pop frequently that they are getting over juiced. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Thanks, I'll do that and see what's what. | ||
| Ftd |
Mine did this until I eliminated the 77 connection. | ||
| Pdento |
I had the same problem a few years ago. It ended up being the voltage regulator. Replaced it and haven't had a problem since. | ||
| Nillaice |
Yeah, but What about your rear headlights? | ||
| Djohnk |
I vote VR | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
They aren't "silverstar" bulbs by any chance? | ||
| Callawegian |
Nate, what is up with Silverstar headlights? They worked great and my truck burned thru a bunch of them before I switched back oem bulbs. | ||
| Mark_weiss |
Silverstars tell you right on the package, 50% greater light, 50% shorter life. Maybe less. Thinner, hotter, filaments give more light, but are more fragile and won't last as long. H7s made for bikes are more durable. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
I'll run a complete diode check on my stock R/R per the Mosfet video and see if there is a problem. Thanks for the comebacks. If there is a Regulator/rectifier problem then I'll just get the Mosfet and be done with it. Works real nice on my son's 07' ULY and since I installed it another install onto my bike is no biggie. | ||
| Fltwistygirl |
My vote is v.r. as well. But I would keep an eye on your stator as well. Within last year we replaced v.r. on xt and v.r. and stator on the x. | ||
| Pnw_uly |
Not a bad idea to run to the "sniff" test... After running the bike, pop of the inspection cover for the primary (two torx bolts) and get a good whiff of the fluid - - if it smells like an electrical burn, most likely the stator. . . | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
My regulator is fine. At a steady 3k rpms it stays under 15 volts. Probably just need to buy h7 bulbs from dealer and not Walmart auto section. | ||
| Uly_man |
Is it? The VR could still "spike" to the stator level output and you would not know it. This can kill the ECM and the reason to fit a voltage monitor so you can see it doing that while riding. | ||
| Bertsdirt |
My Uly was doing the same thing this past December/January. Every few weeks, the bulb got burned out. I replaced the VR and haven't had a bulb burn out since. It starts with occasional spikes and they get more frequent the longer you ignore it. | ||
| Uly_man |
Seems to me, if I recall, that Fltwistygirl had the same problem. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Turns out my regulator is toast. 3 of the 6 diodes are shot. My ULY is parked until the Super Mosfet R/R I ordered from Roadcycle.com arrives and I install it. I checked the regulator and stator according to Roadcycles videos. Regulator shot. Stator still good with no shorts. | ||
| Cyclonedon |
Did you put a volt meter on your bike yet? I just ordered one from Al on Friday. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Cyclo, No I haven't. Maybe something to do after Sturgis. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
My 06' ULY now has a Mosfet regulator/rectifier, same as my son's 07' ULY. I ordered it from Roadstercycle.com on Saturday early afternoon and it was at my door in less than 2 days. Got it in the mailbox before noon on Monday. Works like a champ. If you ever decide to install the Mosfet R/R then make sure you use your stock regulator as a template to build your bracket. Makes it a breeze. | ||
| Mnrider |
EG could you do a pic of how you mounted the new reg. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Ideally you'd get yourself a piece of 3/16" thick aluminum plate big enough to directly trace the bottom and hole pattern of the stock Regulator onto. Then drill the proper sized holes so the finished bracket would bolt right back up with the 3 original 10X24 screws. The 2 standoff screws that you bolt your Mosfet to are phillips flat head 1/4-2- x 2" zinc plated machine screws. They are both mounted through 1/4" drilled holes that are also counter sunk so the flat heads of the screws are flush with the back of the bracket. That is so they don't hit the cross beams you see in the photo where no regulator is mounted yet. The whitish photo shows that I did not ideally use 3/16" thick aluminum plate. I cobbed this bracket together with 1/16" thick zinc coated steel plate and an 1/8" thick piece cut off a 2" wide aluminum ruler. The aluminum is bolted to the steel piece and the bolt heads are conveniently in the empty space between the Buell cross members seen in the unmounted picture. The 1/4-20X2" screws are mounted same as I said in the ideal situation above.     Anyways, you'll want to mount your Mosfet low as you can so it doesn't interfere with the front cylinder airflow anymore than the stock unit did. And you have to stand it off with the 1/4-20 x 2" so when mounted the new unit clears the lower engine isolator bar. Just screw 1/4-20 nuts on the standoff screws to get the amount of standoff you desire.    | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Three 1/4-20 nuts for standoff clearance was probably enough but the bottom photo actually ended up with 4 nuts to get just a bit more clearance away from the isolator cross bar that is right behind the two Mosfet plugs. I painted the bracket with some high temp engine paint that I had left over from painting my son's ULY muffler. This bracket would be just nicer if I'd had the 3/16" thick aluminum plate to build it from and that is what I recommend. (Message edited by electraglider_1997 on July 25, 2014) | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Besides a drill and the proper bits, all the metal cutting was done with a hacksaw mounted with a 10" long carbide rod saw blade. They cost just a few bucks per blade but will cut through anything and around curves and such. http://www.disstontools.com/rg-carbiderod-hks.html | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
The reason I looked into the regulator was because of the front light report-ably burning out. Funny thing is, the front light was not burnt out, it was the 4 pinned plug with a weak contact. The actual plug at the headlight showed 12.8 volts but apparently not enough amps to light the H7 bulb so I went back to the 4 pin plug and cleaned up the contacts and that was all it took. Light works great with the same bulb that wasn't working. So next time you think you have a burned out light you might want to plug in the other good bulb that is working to see if it works in the "bad" side. And I had already bought a 2 bulb pack at Menards and opened it up. Spares. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
One other way to mount that Mosfet could be done by drilling two holes for the 1/4-20 stand off bolts right into the cross piece shown in the vacated space in this photo. I would have done this but I don't have a right angle drill and I didn't feel like taking the front wheel off to drill with the drill I own. That would be a nice fast way to mount the Mosfet so you might want to go that route without building a bracket. You'd have to cut a couple of pieces of 1/4-20 all-thread to the size you need and then put a lock washer and nut on both sides of the cross member because you wouldn't be able to get regular bolt back there with the fins in the way.  | ||
| Mnrider |
Thanks EG looks good. | ||
| Tootal |
Well one things for sure, you didn't have a problem because you washed your bike!!  Looks a lot like mine!  |
