| Author | Message | ||
     Xtrmbkr |
My check engine light has come on recently. I tried to check for error codes today but didn't get any flashing lights. Must have been doing something wrong I am trying to decide if I can continue riding it while I get this sorted out. I don't notice anything different about the bike since the light came on. I just bought the bike 2 months ago andt this is the first issue that I have had after about 500 miles. I bought the bike to ride primarily during the summer months so I hate to see it sitting in the garage now that the weather is nice | ||
| Reepicheep |
If its not the oil light, it's probably OK, but to play it safe you should get the codes read. | ||
| Etennuly |
Try unplugging the ECM plugs, then plug them back in. Sometimes a simple movement of connections can be the issue. | ||
| Xtrmbkr |
Figured out how to read the engine codes. Problem was the kill switch being in the wrong position. Got a code 21 - exhaust actuator. Looked under the air box cover and saw that the cable was disconnected. Talked to the previous owner and he explained that this was part of the exhaust mod when he put on the jardine rt 1. So my question is does this always occur when you replace the stock exhaust? Do I have to ride around with the c?el on all the time or is there a fix? | ||
| Froggy |
The exhaust was installed by someone who didn't properly setup the bike. The Jardine pipe does not have the exhaust actuator like the stock and some aftermarket exhausts, so it is doing nothing. Leaving it connected to the wiring harness lets the ECM think it is still working despite it not being physically connected to the muffler. Given that you are getting a check engine light means that the actuator has worn out and failed, my recommended solution is to get a Race ECM from EBR. It is available with a tune to match the Jardine, it will run correctly (not lean like it is now), and fix some other issues with the stock programming making it run better overall. | ||
| Xtrmbkr |
Thanks for the explanation Froggy. The Race ECM sounds nice, but it also costs $305 + tax and shipping. Are there any other options? | ||
| Tootal |
I don't remember what year they upgraded the actuator but the old version was screwed together. They had plastic gears that would break and cause problems. If yours is screwed together then take it apart and remove the broken gear. As long as the internals can move the computer will think it's all ok and not throw a code. Nothing will happen on the outside but the computer doesn't know that! If the unit is riveted together then it's the newer version which shouldn't break. Is the cable still attached? Could it be hanging up? Just spit balling. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
I just got through fixing the exhaust actuator gizmo on my bike but it wasn't the nylon gears, it was the worn catch on the coiled spring part of the device. Easy fix. Don't see how those gears could wear out when the only way to get that actuator to actually move is to be pegging the throttle all the time. | ||
| Xtrmbkr |
The cable is not attached. Here is what it looks like under the air box cover  | ||
| Reepicheep |
On a whim I bought a pair of actuators for $30 or something. I mainly got them because I figured they would be a cheap strong servo for other projects. Both turned out to be the new style, and both worked, and putting one into the 07 Uly to replace the old style one made the bike run much better (in spite of the fact that the old one only rarely threw a code). I was amazed to see a list price of almost $200 on each. Though I think somebody scared up a Ford part number for the same thing, and I don't think it was that expensive. | ||
| Ourdee |
Xtrmbkr, $305 seams like a lot to just fix your CEL. But that is not all you will get. The fueling will be specific to your exhaust. Your exhaust is way different than the stock pipe. The stock pipe would change it's configuration at different RPMs. The ecm is still trying to change the exhaust while supplying fuel based on the assumption that the OEM exhaust is on there. The stock ecm runs lean at start-up with low RPMs. The Race ecm will wake the bike up and make it run smoother. It will have less tendency to stutter as you leave a stop making a turn. If you don't start using the extra power, it should have increased mpg. I would have bought it on day one if I had only known. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Xtrmbkr, Check the function of that exhaust valve actuator device. Put the kill switch in the OFF position. Turn the key on. Now hold the throttle wide open and at the same time turn the kill switch to the ON position. This should force your exhaust actuator to cycle open and then close. By looking at your photo of the actuator it looks like it is in the normal closed position. If it cycles open correctly it will turn the metal ramp counterclockwise 90 degrees before heading back clockwise to the position in your photo. |
