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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » Archive through June 25, 2014 » Predicting a bad Crankshaft? » Archive through June 02, 2014 « Previous Next »

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Deeds
Posted on Friday, May 30, 2014 - 09:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

For the '07 Ulys, is there any way to predict if you've got a bad crankshaft? I've got an '07 with 33k miles on it, and I'm really concerned my Uly is a grenade. Would a Blackstone Labs oil test glean some information?
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Rayycc1
Posted on Friday, May 30, 2014 - 10:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It couldn't hurt...although even if particles are found you still wont be able to say for sure they're from the crank
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Deeds
Posted on Friday, May 30, 2014 - 10:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So for the crank failure thread, do guys just chime in that their bike is still alive?
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Sagehawk
Posted on Friday, May 30, 2014 - 11:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thats pretty much it, being a honor system. I emailed darkhorse crankworks for any suggestions on these buell cranks and aside from 2500-4500 rpm, oil changes not over 2500 miles, just go and enjoy bike. Hmmm. Ive wondered myself bout getting crank rebuilt to head off a disaster but ive only 18000+ miles at this point. Just havent done it yet.
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Hughlysses
Posted on Saturday, May 31, 2014 - 05:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'd think having a Used Oil Analysis (UOA) done every time you change the oil would be the best measure. Hopefully you'd see a trend of drastically increased wear products that would alert you before things get too bad.

Having been through this myself, you don't really have to worry about the engine grenading. It'll make so much noise LONG before it gets to that point you'll be glad to shut it off. The problem I found was my crank had apparently sprayed small bits of metal into the cylinders and both cylinders and pistons were badly scored as a result. This would have significantly increased the cost of a rebuild for me.

If you do decide to rebuild your bike at some point, the improved 08-up crankshaft and rods can be installed. The only modifications required are one of the crankcase bearings has to be changed and an 08 up primary sprocket has to be installed. Oh yea, the 08-up crank doesn't have a timing mark so you should mark it to match the old crank before installing. The cost of the 08 crank is actually a little less than the 06-07 crank last time I checked (~$725 vs. $750).
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Deeds
Posted on Saturday, May 31, 2014 - 11:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The thing is, I've been planning on a 7-8k mile trip for this bike. While it doesn't exhibit any odd noises now, I don't want to be thousands of miles from home when/if it decides to go. How high is the failure rate, anyway? I know we have rough numbers, but a ballpark might soothe my nerves.
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Turf_moor
Posted on Saturday, May 31, 2014 - 12:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Deeds, maybe you're worrying unduly. The chances of your crank going are pretty remote. Most don't.
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Deeds
Posted on Saturday, May 31, 2014 - 02:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I am trying to decide if it's worth risking a potentially bad crank on my trip. Having major doubts if the bike could last the distance.
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Uly_man
Posted on Saturday, May 31, 2014 - 02:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Deeds. I would look at in a different way?

8000 miles is a LONG trip on ANY bike and you WILL have some sort of problem, even if minor, and there is a good chance you will have something on the Uly as well. The chance of it being the crank would be the least of my concerns on a Uly. Are you going out of the USA?
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Deeds
Posted on Saturday, May 31, 2014 - 03:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Staying in the US. Starting in Virginia, and making my way southwest, up to the northwest, and back home again. I understand that I will certainly encounter some issues, but a dead crank? Throw it in a bodybag and send it home, at that point. In addition to that, the bike is financed, and it's my only vehicle. The previous owner ironed out the small stuff (77 connector mod, breather mod). Small stuff like that, I can deal with.
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Uly_man
Posted on Saturday, May 31, 2014 - 03:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Does the engine run very hot IE Does the frame/ fuel tank area get very hot? How long have you had the bike and how many miles have you done on it.
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Deeds
Posted on Saturday, May 31, 2014 - 03:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Not very hot, at least not hotter than anyone describes. If the fan is any indicator, it only comes on after about 15 or so minutes of riding, and doesn't stay on full blast longer than 20 seconds when I shut it off.

I got the bike back in mid February. It had just under 31k miles when I bought it, and i've put about 1200 on it since. It's been in and out of a shop a couple times from my own doing (I screwed up the TPS once, the other time I broke the lip on the primary cover). The bike needs new steering stem bearings, maybe new intake seals, and a new idle control cable.
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Uly_man
Posted on Saturday, May 31, 2014 - 04:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"Not very hot, at least not hotter than anyone describes. If the fan is any indicator, it only comes on after about 15 or so minutes of riding, and doesn't stay on full blast longer than 20 seconds when I shut it off". This indicates to me, unlike my 06 bike, that the engine is cooling right. A very "hot" engine is like a furnace, even in cold weather, and could be part of the reason for premature crank failures.

"The bike needs new steering stem bearings, maybe new intake seals, and a new idle control cable". Yes do these if needed but make sure the head bearings are set the way you like them for road feel.

If it was me, on that bike doing that trip, I would check ALL WIRING for damage, change the tires unless near new, change all wheel bearings and spacers (a good idea anyway), engine oil/ filter and primary oil if not done already. And a good all round service of the bike. Oh and take a spare belt and clutch cable and know how to fit them as well as knowing the possible problems you may have on your ride with this bike.

Apart from that I would not worry any and just enjoy the trip. Breaking down is part of the deal but I very much doubt it will be due to a crank fail. At 33k I would think the engine is as sound as it is going to be. But, as ever, that is just my opinion. Take a chance and just ride the thing.
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Ishai
Posted on Saturday, May 31, 2014 - 06:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Uly_Man- I don't want to hijack this thread, but I would love to get suggestions from you (since you specifically addressed heat issue) or any body else regarding an 06 Uly with over 30k miles that runs very hot- it always did. Can you start a new thread with your thoughts on how to deal with heat issue?

Thanks, and sorry for hijack
Ishai
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Electraglider_1997
Posted on Saturday, May 31, 2014 - 08:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ishai,
If you go on a trip then try a sheep's pelt with fur side up. That is what I sit on and my ass thanks me because without it the heat would be intolerable.
Comfort kit helps also.

When my O2 sensor went bad the heat was beyond hot. My O2 sensor went bad at 35,000 miles, so yours is getting to its life limit.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Saturday, May 31, 2014 - 10:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you've got 30k on it...I would think if it was gonna pop, it'd have done it already.

Plot your route, and carry a card or spreadsheet with Ryder locations along your route in preparation for worst-case.

Over-maintain, but don't worry. There is a difference. One makes a difference...the other only makes you tired : )
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Ishai
Posted on Saturday, May 31, 2014 - 10:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Elecraglider 1997-I have the sheep skin, it just delays the onset of the heat, does not keep it at bay. I also just replaced the engine temp sensor and last year replaced the O2 sensor. I am starting to think that I may have an intake air leak , dirty throtle plate or dirty injector ,or maybe insufficient oil flow for cooling. Bike runs great though. I don't have another Uly to compare to.The only fact that may help is that no matter how or where I ride- it always gets 40 mpg, sometimes even high 39's.
Again, I really don't want to hijack this thread but I am eager to get suggestion for fixing this.

Ishai
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Dualsportdad
Posted on Saturday, May 31, 2014 - 10:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just bought a 06 Uly with 11,000 miles. It was mint but got hot etc so before I took my 2,000 mile trip I replaced the fuel pump, o2 sensor, fan (it had a bad bearing) and rear wheel bearings as a precaution. I also insured the bike with progressive that offered trip interruption protection which from my understanding will pay for your hotel and expenses while broken down and will cover the labor costs for the repair of the bike. It was about $15 a year so I figured I couldn't go wrong. Even if my crank took a shit I'd be out about a grand.

Thankfully I didn't need to use the insurance and made the whole trip without any problems.
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Etennuly
Posted on Sunday, June 01, 2014 - 01:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ishai, When you say hot are you talking about your butt and right leg melting a bit? What pants do you ride with?

One thing you will never do is ride a Uly in the summer while wearing shorts or thin single layer pants like jeans! It will likely blister your leg.

If it gets so hot that you get a flashing red light and goes into run-skip that is a different thing than just feeling physically hot to ride.
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Etennuly
Posted on Sunday, June 01, 2014 - 01:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

To the OP.....when I drove dirt track race cars nubes(including me) would ask how you could tell when and engine was going to blow up. Best answer was "it ran better than it ever did for a few minutes, just before it exploded!".

The only real way to predict the demise of a vital part such as a crank shaft would be to remove and inspect it. If the oil test comes back positive for metallic debris and the engine still runs smooth and quiet it could be hard to determine where the debris came from.

Every engine ever built will fail at some time. They always do, no matter who made it or what it is in. Some of these '07 cranks have failed, more than what is expected, but surely not near the majority of them.

Maintain it. Run it. It could go for a longer than average time, it could be toast tomorrow, like every crank in any other engine could be. Don't worry, be happy!
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Turf_moor
Posted on Sunday, June 01, 2014 - 04:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I ride in Portugal in 40 degree celsius heat. It is never a problem. As Uly man says, prepare the bike properly, and you will be fine. I won't repeat his advice. I did London-Portugal-London, and lot's of running around down there with no problem whatsoever. If your belt is old, a good idea may be to replace it before you set off. Otherwise, just ride the damn thing. These bikes are ever bit as reliable as BMWs and KTMs. And more comfortable. I have had both those other brands, and I like the Uly better.
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Deeds
Posted on Sunday, June 01, 2014 - 05:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the encouraging words guys. This thread is quickly getting off topic, but I am fine with that. I guess it could be titled "how can I gain the confidence for a long haul"

How can I check the whole wiring harness for damage without doing a complete teardown? I know to apply dielectric grease to connectors, what else?
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Turf_moor
Posted on Sunday, June 01, 2014 - 06:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What you need is a plastic tube round the main harness. I have one on mine but I'm not the best mechanic in the world. Uly man knows his stuff if he's up yet. It's 11.19 in London so he should be. Good luck.
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Turf_moor
Posted on Sunday, June 01, 2014 - 06:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

As Uly man has said elsewhere, most breakdowns are due to wires chaffing. I have had mine thoroughly sorted. It may well break down at some point, but Ireally feel I trust it more than I would a modern KTM or BMW. So much high-tech stuff to go wrong on those.
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Ishai
Posted on Sunday, June 01, 2014 - 11:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"This indicates to me, unlike my 06 bike, that the engine is cooling right. A very "hot" engine is like a furnace, even in cold weather, and could be part of the reason for premature crank failures."
This part of Uly_Man reply is what got my attention and is the reason for my thread hijack- again,Deeds, I apolologize for doing so.
MY issue is the seat - and I always wear full riding gear. I tried sheep skin, , beeds, heat blanket and currently use a Corbin seat per Al's suggestion. Non of these remedies solved the hot seat issue for me- the max time I can ride without having to stop is 1 hour. The fan runs all the time and may take 45 seconds to stop-even on a 70 deg day. So I think my engine is running hotter then it should.I do not baby the bike. I run the engine revs up and down, taking it to 6k rpm at times (otherwise known as Italian Tune-up}...so- I am looking for any input to help me solve this for an otherwise a fantastic bike.

Ishai
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Etennuly
Posted on Sunday, June 01, 2014 - 05:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you don't have the Uly comfort kit, it helped my heat problem a lot. I also cheated a bit by running my fan all of the time with a manual switch. These two things solve my heat problems. My bike was into the overheat run-skip above 90F and 70 MPH.

I ride full gear all of the time also. One summer I hopped on the Uly for a ride around my acreage and then a short trip to the post office while I was wearing shorts. Wholly crap, I barely made it the two miles back home, it was so unbearably hot to ride.

I use double mesh summer pants, that helps.
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Djohnk
Posted on Sunday, June 01, 2014 - 05:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ishai,

I coated the bottom of my seat with reflective tape ... that helped a little for what your talking about with the hot-seat issue.

Also, someone around here sells a very nice heat blanket to go under the seat, probably nicer than the reflective tape. ... Sorry now we really thread-jacked

(Message edited by djohnk on June 01, 2014)

(Message edited by djohnk on June 01, 2014)
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Reepicheep
Posted on Sunday, June 01, 2014 - 06:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I did a blackstone analysis. It showed 2x the expected amount of silver, which suggested the crank bearings were stressed.

Duh.

I expect it would show that right up until the clanking begins.
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Glenn
Posted on Monday, June 02, 2014 - 11:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi Reepcheap,

How many miles do you have and what year? I have a 2007 with 25K. I just got an analysis done, the first, by Blackstone and got this:

SILVER

76 on mine

50 they say is the average
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Reepicheep
Posted on Monday, June 02, 2014 - 11:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I was at 111 on mine at 20k miles. I'm at 30k miles now, haven't tested it again yet.

I that was using Valvoline Synthetic 20w50. I'm running Amsoil now, it would be interesting to see how it changed.

I have a rattle I can't track down. Could be crank, but sounds like it is coming from outside the motor somewhere, or the top end maybe.
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