| Author | Message | ||
     Terrycoxusa |
My uly clunks when shifting from 2nd to 3rd, and when the motor is hot, I can't get neutral at a standstill. I just changed the oil to genuine Harley Syn3, which made no difference at all, carefully adjusted the clutch, 3 times, and checked the primary chain for proper slack. I am starting to think that maybe the clutch friction plates have swelled up. Any thoughts? | ||
| Terrycoxusa |
Changed the primary case oil....... BTW I test drove a BMW R1200RT, which also had clunky shifting, so it's no deal breaker, but I wish it shifted more like my Suzuki DR650, smooth as butter. | ||
| Sagehawk |
What year suzuki? What is youre opinion of that 650 for the time youve had it. | ||
| Buewulf |
When you say it clunks, I assume you mean it clunks more than the typical Buell clunk and that the symptom has arisen sometime after you originally got the bike? I would suggest the primary is too loose as those are the symptoms, but you've already checked the slack. Is the condition gradually worsening? | ||
| Hughlysses |
and when the motor is hot, I can't get neutral at a standstill 10-to-1 your primary chain is too tight. Engine cases expand with heat stretching the chain further. This causes drag on the clutch assembly making it hard to find neutral. Too tight chain = hard shifting, hard finding neutral. Too loose chain = vibration at ~3000 RPM. I'd recommend that you just back off the primary chain adjustment screw 1/4 turn and try that. I adjusted mine carefully by the book and everything was fine until the engine got good and hot, and then I'd have trouble finding neutral. I backed off 1/4 turn and it's been perfect since. | ||
| Orygun |
Sorry for the hijack - but my '06 Uly has developed some ??similar?? peculiarities...When I am stopped and release my clutch going into first, I can hear a definite 'clunk' as I near the end of the clutch travel and the trans engages. Additionally, my neutral switch has died. At times, esp when hot, the starter wont engage unless I rock the bike forward a bit. This started at about 4k miles. Any ideas/opinions on this? Is this somehow related to what Terry is experiencing? | ||
| Terrycoxusa |
The primary is too tight The primary is too loose Hmmm..... | ||
| Hughlysses |
If primary chain is too loose, you will feel noticeable vibration in ~3000 RPM range. I think it'll have to be VERY loose to cause the symptoms you describe, and since you adjusted it, it's unlikely it's too loose. It is however, easy to make it a little too tight. Hard getting into neutral when hot- definitely primary is too tight! 30 second fix to loosen it 1/4 turn. | ||
| Terrycoxusa |
Hughlysses, I will give that a try, I'll let you know. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Orygun, you may be fooling yourself with the rocking (I did). I had a wire breaking in the bundle that goes under the steering neck and under the frame. I thought I was bringing the starter back by rocking it, but I was really just moving the bars to "reconnect" the internally cracked wire. So look for loose battery terminals, and broken wires. You could try swinging the bars lock to lock instead of rocking, and see if that is just as effective. If so, the starter end of things is probably fine, it's the control or power wiring. | ||
| Hoover_uly |
Terrycoxusa, Hope you get your bike sorted out and I regret I cannot offer any advice. Sagehawk, I have a DR650 also. 2005 model which I've driven about 3,000 miles or so to a total of around 6,000 or so. Based on the reviews I read, the KLR was the most road worthy, the Honda XR was the most dirt worthy and the DR was in the middle. There was a big update on the bike in the early 90's if I recall but other than that, Suzuki hasn't invested much, if anything in further upgrades. Yea, you can spend a lot more on a more sophisticated 650 and I expect it would require less modification to be a satisfactory bike. You can learn a lot about the bike at drriders.com and dr650.zenseeker.net. Procycle has a great assortment of accessories and they are great to deal with too. The front and rear suspension sucks unless you are around 150 pounds or less if I recall correctly. I upgraded with race tech stuff and it was a huge improvement. The stock carb sucks (vacuum operated). I upgraded to an FCR carb (accel pump) which was a huge improvement. The stock seat sucks and there are many options for that. The KLR has the "doohicky" and the DR has screws which may fall out of the neutral safety switch. Mine were loose with about 3,000 miles on the bike. There are a few other issues also. Unfortunately, my bike does not shift like butter. Hangs up on downshift occasionally. Going to try some Rotella full synthetic this weekend. This was my return to motorcycling motorcycle. It was going to be my one and only bike. Didn't work out that way. While it will go a little over 100, I don't enjoy it much at all over 55 to 60. I have two bikes and want at least three. The Uly for the road and "let's see where this dirt road goes" although I've been on s few easy trails with it. The DR is fun around town and a blast on a dirt road and "lets see where this trail goes". I still want a bike that is OK around town, good on a dirt road and easy to manage in the woods. The DR is a bit heavy for me and a little tall in the woods. Having to step off the low side can leave you in a heap. If you can get into one for the right price and are willing to invest in some modifications, it can be a nice bike. It was just too limited to me to be my only bike. Thought of selling it but I have more invested than I can get back out so I ride it occasionally. Hope this helps. If you have a specific question, feel free to PM me. |
