| Author | Message | ||
     Callawegian |
I changed the engine oil in my 06 Uly last Saturday and I thought that I had tightened the drain plug. I went for a ride Monday night and got in about 60 miles. I walked by my Uly tonight, I noticed a spot of oil on the floor. I got my torque wrench out and looked up the torque value for the drain plug. I tried to tighten the drain plug and it continues to spin and will not tighten. What should I do now? I guessing its time for a heli-coil? Has anyone ever had to do this? | ||
| General_ulysses |
From what I've read here, the torque setting provided in the Buell manual for the drain plug is way too high. Many people have stripped their plugs as a result of it. | ||
| Griffmeister |
That's one of the mysteries we'll never know. Yeah, for some reason that torque spec is way too high, and yes, now you need a helicoil. This will make it stronger but you're also going to lose the taper for the o-ring so you'll need a sealing washer or something. | ||
| Reepicheep |
As expensive as they are, a timsert is likely to give a much more satisfactory result than a heli coil. If it were me, I would secure the "next size up" drain plug bolt I could find from... anything... that would allow me to start with virgin aluminum. I would then drill out the current hole, re-tap it, and use the new plug very carefully with carefully monitored torque. And I would *only* do that if I checked ahead of time, did the math, and figured out that if *that* bolt stripped, I am still small enough in diameter that I am just drilling out for the timsert that lets me use the factory plug again anyway. I tried a heli-coil on a friends SV650 with the same problem... It leaked (slowly) ever since. | ||
| Sagehawk |
o'reillys has a first oversize bolt with a washer that will work. 1/2"-20 tpi / rh is original size. They also have package of copper washers that are for 1/2" drain bolts. Washered head is good and swingarm should be spotfaced. Just ensure outer diameter of washer sits square within diameter of spotface so it doesn't •••• up on edge somehow. use goop manual speaks of for sealant on threads and torque up to 10 -12 ft-lbs. worked good on 96 roak king transmission oil drain plug. there is a 2nd oversize plug i think if the smaller one doesn't work. good luck with which system you use. | ||
| Devo1959 |
Hi The same thing happened to me and I used a helicoil and it works better then new and now has stainless threads. You use the original drain plug this way. The only negative I see is that the helicoil is harder on the o-ring seal so be prepared to replace it any time you loosen it. The whole procedure took a 1/2 hour. I have the Helicoil set for 1/2" 20 as needed for the drain plug you are welcome to borrow it to fix yours just send it back when done or it is available from McMaster for $60 or $70 . | ||
| Callawegian |
Thanks for the info, but now I have another question. Regardless of which way I go to repair this do I have to remove the swing arm are can I do it as it sits? I am not a noob to threading and I know I can set up a shop- vac to remove the chips as I thread it. I hope. | ||
| Devo1959 |
I lifted my bike up with a sling and fork truck so I could eaisily work on mine and I did not remove the swing arm. I drilled it with a lot of grease on the drill to pickup most of the chips and again grease on the tap to pickup up chips, I then used a few pipecleaners with grease on them to sweep just inside the hole and then with I flushed it out with a clean quart of oil and the plug out. Did not see much in chips at all using grease on the impliments. Jeff | ||
| Firemanjim |
Drain plug is a standard American thread size and any decent auto parts house will sell oversize plugs, had to use a couple here when a bike came in stripped. | ||
| 7873jake |
+1 on Jeff's recommendation above re: grease on the bits, tap, etc. Grease or Tapmatic, your choice, but use something. http://www.grainger.com/product/LPS-Tapmatic-R-Edg e-Lube-4KK73 | ||
| Devo1959 |
Drain plug is 1/2" 20 tpi fine thread but American (1/2") My cousin owns a metal fabrication company including aluminum fabrication. Every threaded hole he puts in aluminum he puts in a helicoil or if not helicoiled over time it will fail with use. That is a statement from him, he is a craftsman and I take him at his word. | ||
| Portero72 |
I tried the helicoil after mine stripped. I worked okay for a while, but would always drip. Eventually the insert mangled and I just bit the bullet and did a Time Sert. It's way more solid. | ||
| Griffmeister |
It's a Uly, throw down a blanket and lay it over on it's side. Then you can work with the drain hole right in front of you. +1 on the grease, it will capture any chips that you make. | ||
| Turf_moor |
Glad I've never used a torque wrench when refitting the drain plug! | ||
| Devo1959 |
Mine does not leak with the helicoil at least not yet! Cant vouch for longevity of the repair on the Uly. I have used helicoils a handful of times before with no problems. | ||
| Callawegian |
thanks for all of the advise! I stopped by an O'Reilly's yesterday and went with the Dorman remedy for my oil leak issue. I greased it really good and inserted in the hole. I then backed it out to find a load of metal shavings. I cleaned it out the best I could and loaded it up with red Loctite before I permanently installed it. I hope that it solves my problems. | ||
| Tootal |
That should take care of it. Helicoils are great for temporary repairs or for items that don't have to come apart or don't have a lot of tension. Anything else needs a timesert or equivalent for long term happiness!! A helicoil is a spring that will push into the aluminum a little further each time you tighten it. Eventually it will get loose and try to back out. The timesert is solid and if you have the material around the hole to support it I really recommend them. There are other brands out there and they will all do a great job. As long as they are solid they work great. | ||
| Callawegian |
The only downside/upside to my fix was that the oil and Loctite were more expensive than the threaded insert. | ||
| Uly_man |
For those that do not know you would be well advised to be wary of the torque settings for small bolts on this bike. Also take GREAT care refitting the screen and air box bolts as it is VERY easy to cross thread them. If they feel tight DO NOT force them and start again otherwise you will ripe the threads out. | ||
| Callawegian |
Anti-seize compound has also become one of my best friends. Anytime I start on repairs or maintenance on a Buell I find my tube of compound first before I grab any tools. | ||
| Sagehawk |
Anti sieze based on what material? All kinds out there. Aluminum, copper, silver, nickel.probably some i dont know about even as humans have been known to create from stuff available. Industry uses nickel mostly here. Automotive uses copper. Stacking impellers n shafts i've used silver based with good luck. | ||
| Callawegian |
I use copper, because with my 03 Lightning I had issues with the chin spoiler screws that go in the muffler. Now about every fastener that I reinstall into my Uly I apply a little anti seize material. There are two reasons to do so; one because of heat, the second reason is dissimilar metals have a tendency to fuse together. | ||
| Krabykarl |
If you use anti-seize won't the bolts loosen? I've been using blue Locktite contrary to the motor manual which specifies red. I was told by an old performance auto engine builder red was for main caps, connecting rods and torque converter bolts only everything else use blue. | ||
| Etennuly |
I use the aluminum anti-sieze on the front and rear axles and on the large front engine isolator bolt. | ||
| Rayycc1 |
I usually spit on it and put it back in the hole...I guess i'm doing it wrong? EDIT: wrong forum sorry  | ||
| Sagehawk |
I liked it even if no one else did rayycc1. I needed a laugh after 380 miles of driving and 4 hours in a tattoo shop getting my neck inked. Bpms 150- motogp in austin this weekend and traffic out of town was something. | ||
| Rayycc1 |
Sagehawk...pics or it didnt happen  I have tons of ink...cant seem to think of ANYTHING i like enough to put on my neck though (Message edited by Rayycc1 on April 13, 2014) | ||
| Buewulf |
Did you go to the races Sagehawk? I was there, too! | ||
| Sagehawk |
Buewulf: no races. Wife had art opening fri night in clute. Art opening sat night in texas city. And i had appt in austin at bat city tattos sunday for ink. Up n back one day. We certainly enjoyed the traffic tho. Rayycc1: will send ya some pics tonight of ink. This forum may not be as open minded as it would seem. Learned that in a hog chapter. | ||
| Uly_man |
"I've been using blue Locktite contrary to the motor manual which specifies red". I would use blue on most things and red on those that would only NEED it. Buell used red, or something like it, on parts of the bike that do not need it and makes it a pain to get apart. I guess they wanted to make sure the vibs did not make it fall apart. It is ok if you know it is there and work around it. Corrosion can get to "steel-on-alloy" parts and make them seize up IE Like the wheel axles. I have just had it taking off my front cowl cover. For normal fixings on the bike I just add a dab of ACF-50 to the threads. It is Aero industry grade and if it is good enough for the FAA it is for me as well. Made in Canada, buy it anyplace. | ||
| Djohnk |
I use this frequently when assembling:  Haven't lost any bolts, but it's messy, and a little goes a long way. | ||
| Djohnk |
I use this on the drain plugs:  I get it at AutoZone. | ||
| 7873jake |
If you like Loctite/threadlocker, google up "loctite threadlocker stick" It comes in a more solid form, easy to use and is tasty, tasty, tasty. | ||
| Callawegian |
The weather and my schedule haven't given me a chance to go out for a ride until today. I only got in about 80 miles. I think the Dorman product solved my problem, but I did have to use JB Weld to get it to seal. The Loctite didn't seal it up or didn't use enough of the product. |
