Author |
Message |
Kennywiz
| Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2014 - 07:27 pm: |
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So something weird started happening during my ride today. When I get on the throttle, the speedo needle dips down, ( slower speed) and when I let of the throttle, it returns about where it should be. What gives? How does the speedo read speed on these bikes? I recently installed the EBR ECM. Also my clutch engagement requires a full lever pull to fully disengage the clutch. Is there an adjuster or is this powertrain suppose to slip the clutch all the time? Really noticed it recently after the ECM change. Before if I popped it into gear from neutral with the clutch engaged, (2 fingers), nothing happened. Now the RPMs go up. Where would I adjust this? Gonna bury my head in the manuals. Thanks! |
Kennywiz
| Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2014 - 07:56 pm: |
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OK so I found the Clutch adjustment and all I gotta say is WOW: ADJUSTMENT If clutch slips under load or drags when released, first check control cable adjustment. If cable adjustment is within specifications, adjust clutch mechanism as described below. When necessary, lubricate cable with LUBIT-8 TUFOILŪ CHAIN AND CABLE LUBE (Part No. HD-94968-85TV). 1. Position the vehicle upright and level. This will prevent lubricant from draining out when clutch inspection cover is removed. 2. See Figure 1-27. Slide rubber boot (1) upward to expose adjuster mechanism. Loosen jam nut (3) from adjuster (4). Turn adjuster to shorten cable housing until there is a large amount of free play at clutch hand lever. 3. See Figure 1-25. Remove three fasteners and washers from clutch inspection cover. Remove clutch inspection cover and gasket from primary cover. 4. See Figure 1-28. Remove spring (1) and lockplate (2). Using a flat tip screwdriver, turn adjusting screw (3) counterclockwise until it lightly bottoms. 5. Turn adjusting screw clockwise 1/4-1/2 turn. Install lockplate and spring on adjusting screw flats. If hex on lockplate does not align with recess in outer ramp, rotate adjusting screw clockwise until it aligns. NOTE Spring installs on outboard side of hex lockplate. 6. Squeeze clutch hand lever to maximum limit three times. This sets the ball and ramp mechanism. Pull outer cable conduit and at the same time adjust cable adjuster to provide 1/16-1/8 in. (1.6-3.2 mm) free play at clutch hand lever. Adjust as follows: a. See Figure 1-29. Pull ferrule (end of cable housing) away from bracket. Gap between ferrule and bracket should be 1/16-1/8 in. (1.6-3.2 mm). b. See Figure 1-27. Set free play by turning adjuster (4). c. Tighten jam nut (3) against adjuster (4). d. Slide boot (1) over cable adjuster mechanism. 7. Change or add transmission fluid if necessary. NOTE Each time the clutch inspection cover is removed, the gasket must be replaced. 8. See Figure 1-25. Install clutch inspection cover and new gasket using three fasteners and tighten to 84-108 in-lbs (10-12 Nm). |
Griffmeister
| Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2014 - 08:50 pm: |
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A lot of words for what is basically a simple adjustment. While you're there go ahead and check the primary chain adjustment. I think the hardest part of the whole job is trying to slide the boot out of the way on the cable. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2014 - 08:53 pm: |
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Wow what? Wow it worked? Or wow it looks complicated? Its not that bad, and the ball and ramp mechanism is much less mickey mouse than the traditaional dual threaded collars and uber-fussy case clearance and wear sensitive setups of the average Japanese bikes. |
Froggy
| Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2014 - 10:02 pm: |
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How to adjust the primary chain and clutch cable on a Buell 1125R
- 1 - Get beer
- 2 - Open beer
- 3 - Consume beer
Steps 1-3 are optional. |
Buellhusker
| Posted on Thursday, April 10, 2014 - 12:48 am: |
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Froggy, You are exchanging the clutch cable adjustment routine for the drain, refill & bleed the clutch hydraulic system routine. The cable adjustment is much cheeper, simpler, quicker and less mess to clean up. |
Kennywiz
| Posted on Thursday, April 10, 2014 - 06:58 am: |
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Yes, I would have preferred a Hydraulic system but that's not what we have. Thanks for the clutch info. Anyone have anything on the speedo issue? |
Kennywiz
| Posted on Thursday, April 10, 2014 - 08:56 am: |
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Did some research and found the Vehicle Speed Sensor is usually the culprit. However, I did NOT have this issue until I installed the EBR ECM. Wrote EBR for assistance as the sensor is a $60 part. (Message edited by kennywiz on April 10, 2014) |
Hootowl
| Posted on Thursday, April 10, 2014 - 09:33 am: |
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Take it out and clean the tip. It's a hall effect sensor, and has a permanent magnet in the tip. It tends to pick up debris. Should be directly above the front drive pulley at the output of the tranny. |
Teeps
| Posted on Thursday, April 10, 2014 - 11:45 am: |
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Put the original ECM back in... Then if problem persists troubleshoot. Clutch: Did this problem start all of a sudden? If so, hope it's just the clutch cable about to break and not the primary. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/282980.html |
Brakes2late
| Posted on Friday, April 11, 2014 - 11:14 am: |
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+1 on what Hootowl said. Mine did the same thing until I had the engine apart to replace the 5th gear shaft bearing. It hasn't happened since. |
Kennywiz
| Posted on Friday, April 11, 2014 - 02:46 pm: |
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Well the clutch adjustment wasn't that bad. EBR wants me to send the ECM back so they can test it. Took a short ride with the old ECM and I didn't have speedo issues. |
Buellmeister57
| Posted on Monday, April 14, 2014 - 09:10 pm: |
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I'm having the same speedo issues with my EBR ecm. It got progressively worse until the speedo pretty much quit working. Put the factory ecm back in and the speedo works fine. I'm going to see if EBR will test it for me. |
Kennywiz
| Posted on Friday, April 18, 2014 - 11:47 am: |
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You should contact EBR. They sent me a new ECM. Gonna try it tonight. |
Kennywiz
| Posted on Friday, April 18, 2014 - 07:04 pm: |
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Yea well it's as if they re shipped me the ECM I returned. Exact same issues. Sweeping/dropping speedo Exhaust actuator not working Mid power delivery dead zone Raises the revs with clutch FULLY engaged idling in gear. Seriously! Does anyone else with the EBR ECM have these issues? Can't be the bike because when I put the OEM ECM in, I have none of these issues. I followed the instructions. Disconnect battery Installed ECM making sure to fully engage connectors Reconnected battery Reset tps per instructions as well. Wtf |
Kennywiz
| Posted on Saturday, April 19, 2014 - 01:12 pm: |
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Said screw it and took the bike to the hd dealer and paid $54 for their ECM flash. A new bike! Much more power, no speedo or any other issues. Just gonna send the EBR box back and put $300 back in my pocket. |
Buellmeister57
| Posted on Wednesday, April 23, 2014 - 05:11 pm: |
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Kenny, What ecm flash did the dealer do? The only one I've heard of is the comfort kit flash which controls the fan. |
Kennywiz
| Posted on Thursday, April 24, 2014 - 07:43 am: |
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I needed to reflash anyway as I went back to an OEM exhaust. I can get the version from them if you need it. |
Kennywiz
| Posted on Saturday, April 26, 2014 - 08:52 pm: |
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Ok well, the speedo sweeping has returned. I don't know what to do. It was fine for several rides and then presented itself again today. I previously checked and cleaned the speed sensor and it only has 5k miles. Do they go bad that early and act up only sometimes? I'd hate to spend $65 only to find that wasn't the issue. Any thoughts on what it may be? |
Rayycc1
| Posted on Saturday, April 26, 2014 - 09:10 pm: |
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pinched wire somewhere? thats what i would look for |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Monday, April 28, 2014 - 08:28 am: |
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The sensors are fairly sensitive, and do tend to fail gradually over time. That doesn't mean the sensor is necessarily bad, but it is one of the less durable parts of the motorcycle. |
Kennywiz
| Posted on Monday, April 28, 2014 - 08:49 am: |
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I took the Fly screen off and found that I have a decent amount of slack with the main harness and could not ID any pinch points at full steering lock. The connector to the dash was connected tight. I unplugged and re plugged it in anyway. I FINALLY got the Palmer Highway Pegs off and that gave me better access to the speed sensor. Took it out again and cleaned it even though there was nothing accumulated. Did a TPS reset just in case and made certain the ECM was fastened tight. Didn't notice any seat clearance issues with the ECM. Took it out for about 20 miles of mixed riding and the speedo was firm. We will see. One question though. I took off the fly screen and was just looking around the light and saw this. Looks like there should be like a daytime running bulb in there. Is that correct???????????{,}} (Message edited by kennywiz on April 28, 2014) |
Froggy
| Posted on Monday, April 28, 2014 - 11:27 am: |
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Yea that is the position light, required for Euro bikes, so not all US spec bikes have it filled in. I forget the size, I believe it is a 194 wedge bulb, you can get one and plug it in to the headlamp assembly if you desire. I've seen some members get colored bulbs, the color is not normally visible due to the headlights drowning it out, but it looks cool when you turn the key to "park" |