| Author | Message | ||
     Ratbuell |
You did it wrong. Turn the screws IN until they lightly (that's LIGHTLY - do NOT turn them hard!) bottom out (clockwise). Then, turn counter-clock out to set your levels. I think. The process should be in your owners manual. Also, with 4885 miles in 6 years...lord knows the condition of the fork fluid. Follow the manual, and see how that works for you. Don't be afraid to go a full weight range heavier (or lighter) to get the feel you want - the books are strictly a baseline. | ||
| Kennywiz |
LOL! Thanks! I really like "You did it wrong" only to be followed by "I think".  Per the manual in which all the links are dead: 1. See Front Fork Preload and Rebound Adjuster: Ulysses Models. Turn preload adjuster nut (2) counterclockwise until it stops. This is the minimum preload setting. I did the above then turned it 4 turns CW per the chart for max load. (I like a stiff bike) I may diddle with the compression and may have the fork fluid changed. However, I've had bikes with fouled fork fluid and this doesn't feel like that. The front end doesn't bounce, it just feels... Well like it will wash out from under me. May need to just get used to it. It's not a sportbike or sport tourer or a BMW Telelever. Didn't want to ride around too much as I need to get it legal 1st. -------------------------------------------- The Drummer exhaust is WAY too loud for my early AM commuter use. How much power will I loose by putting the stock back on? Do I need to reflash the ECU? Do I need to remove the K&N air filter and change to a paper? -------------------------------------------- Those speakers were the first thing to come off! ONTO eBay! I tried to take the Palmer Cruiser Pegs off. Got all the bolts out except for one in the front. I finally get a wrench on the nut, go to turn the allen screw head and dammit if it wasn't already stripped. I cant get a drill on it without taking the wheel off. So... unhappily I bolted everything back up. | ||
| Ratbuell |
When you have tubers, an xb, and an 1125 in the garage...memories get crossed lol. Glad the book got you straight  You won't lose any power with a stock muffler. If anything (presuming you hook the valve back up) you will gain midrange punch. Only reason for a reflash would be muffler valve control, the "race" ECM doesn't have that function enabled. EBR can do one up for you or, if you're willing to risk lobotomizing your ECM, you could tackle it yourself with ECMspy. I run my 06 with stock muffler, k&n, and EBR ECM and couldn't be happier! | ||
| Mhevezi |
Kenny, Nice looking bike. I have an '08 as well, and am very happy with my bike. When you put the stock exhaust can back on, I HIGHLY recommend you purchased new clamps from American Sport Bike, one for the front and TWO for the back (I noticed you only have one back there now). They are cheap and re-using the old ones can be a gamble, that is just not worth it. VERY cheap insurance. I have no doubt that you should be able to dial in the front suspension on these bikes. The viscosity choice of fluid and type/brand of tire can make the front end feel very different and I'm sure you can find a suitable formula. Keep an eye on those 'areas of concern' - reach out if you need help from the folks on this forum and go RIDE that dang thing! | ||
| Uly_man |
"If I can figure out the front end, this will be a usable daily driver. If not, it's up for sale". That is a bit hard. The bike NEEDS the same set up as with any fully adjustable USD suspension. Get it right and the bike will handle better than any standard built road bike YOU have ever had. | ||
| Rayycc1 |
you have a stock exhaust? if not maybe we could work out a trade of some sort...I want a Drummer | ||
| Buewulf |
Feels like it is going to wash out when? a) During hard braking? b) While braking into a corner? c) During steady throttle through a corner? d) While accelerating out of a corner? e) All of the above? f) Other? | ||
| Kennywiz |
I have a stock exhaust. Jury is still out on a change. I need to make sure all the OEM bits are in the box too. I'm gonna have to do something though as this exhaust is just as loud as the Aprilia Falco I had with Two Bros pipes. Gonna call Drummer and see if their DB killer would be a good fit without sacrificing too much. Took it out for about 50 miles after a small front compression addition. It helped. Wash out feel: b and c Highway was fine up to 105mph, then the front end got "busy". I don't plan to spend much time at that speed and it feels very good at anything below 100. 4k rpm at 80mph sound about right? I think it's just me getting used to the feel and characteristics of this bike. Heated grips worked great, a little too well. I see why everyone does the Comfort Kit. It was 50 degrees out and the right side was just billowing heat. About how many miles do you have once the fuel light comes on? Thanks! | ||
| Kennywiz |
Spoke to Mr. Drummer himself last night, (AWESOME guy BTW), and he confirmed the exhaust on my bike is a D&D and not a Drummer. So it looks like I will have to refit the stock. Not a project I really wanted to take on. I was hoping to get the bike, check/change fluids/adj suspension and ride the dam thing. The D&D is way too loud for 6am start/warm ups. That was whole reason for purchase was a solid, fun daily commuter. Seller, who is a good guy said it was a Drummer but probably got mixed up. He's a busy guy with a hand in many ventures, as well as 5 bikes. Anyway, time to comb YouTube for an exhaust how to and make sure I have all the OEM hardware. | ||
| Rayycc1 |
want to sell the D&D? | ||
| Kennywiz |
OK so the PO said it has the "Race" ECM. Although I don't remember the ECM saying "FOR RACE ONLY". If I have to get a re flash, do you know what that would cost? I see that Ratbuell uses the EBR ECM with a stock pipe. Can you please comment on operation? thanks! | ||
| Buewulf |
Assuming there is enough preload to get your sag right (have you checked?), I'd wager you could use slower rebound on the front and probably some more compression on the back. Also, setting up for 300+ lbs, you are probably near the limit of what the adjusters can compensate for. A heavier oil is probably the way to go if you just can't seem to dial it in. Keep in mind that the suspenders are very competent over a wide range of uses from super slab comfort to bad-road composure to sport-touring. If you a striving to make the bike feel like a ZX-10R, you'll need to send the shock and tubes into a pro-shop like Traxxion Dynamics or RaceTech for a proper makeover, IMO. | ||
| Kennywiz |
I've got a guy that used to work on my dirtbikes coming by this weekend and we should be able to get the suspension sorted. thanks! Luckily it seems all the OEM bits were included with the OEM exhaust. I WILL be going back to stock as soon as I can. Someone already called dibs on the D&D. I rode about 60+ miles today on the Corbin and honestly, I like the stock seat better. It and a complete NIB Palmer Aux light kit are posted in the classifieds. Thank you everyone! | ||
| Buewulf |
I saw a Corbin for a Uly go for a pretty penny on ebay a few weeks ago. You should consider throwing yours up there. | ||
| Kennywiz |
The seat and Palmer light kit were listed for a few hours and sold! Took it out for a bit today. Purposely got caught in traffic to see how it faired. Clutch feel is ok and wow is this thing balanced. I was seeing how long I can be stopped without having to put a boot down. Lol! Still can't get over the idle and low rpm shake. Guess you love or hate it. I'm not loving it. I have all the pieces for the comfort kit and I really have to install them. It's 50 degrees out and OMG does it billow heat from the right. It's gotta suck when it's warmer. Engine light lit amber for a few seconds quite some time after traffic and will excellerating to 55 on an open road then went dark and didn't come back on again. Anyone? Is this common? Unsure of WHAT ECM program I have. Does not say for race only. If it helps the fan stays on after I turn the bike off. I know when the PO had the D&D installed, something was done to the ECM as it's noted on the dealer docs. Everyone else idle around 1100-1200rpm? (Message edited by Kennywiz on April 02, 2014) | ||
| Fotoguzzi |
I know what you mean about balancing at stop w/feet on pegs, sometimes I almost feel like one of those bike messengers who never steps down off the pedals. Idle shake is character to me. It gets hot even with the comfort kit, I sometimes need to ride the other bike if it's in the 90's. I have EBR ECU for stock pipe and my fan stays on awhile after turning off. | ||
| Rayycc1 |
i'm thinking that you have the stock ECU....You can turn the idle down ...1050 is where mines at...the adjuster is right beside the left air scoop. Also...I just ordered some heat mat material from summit racing and intend to cover the inside of my frame and under the seat with it to see if that helps | ||
| Froggy |
It is seriously the worst part of the bike, and thankfully was not carried over to the watercooled bikes
Seriously, get it installed!
My bet is that it is a completely stock ECM. The CEL was likely from it trying to actuate the exhaust actuator, but not getting the correct response. The dealer likely updated the programming on the ECM, but you don't have the latest flash which came out in 2009. There were a few updates over the years. Personally I recommend putting the stock can back on, and getting the EBR Race ECM for the stock pipe. It fixes the fueling, bypasses some EPA crap, gives the newer fan control logic, and a bunch of other little tweaks, to make it run how it should have ran from the factory.
That is normal, idle is computer controlled. EBR ECM tweaks the idle settings a bit.
No adjustment cable on the 08+ bikes, you can reprogram the ECM to the idle speed you desire. | ||
| Buewulf |
I don't think there is a mechanical idle adjustment on the 08+ bikes, but I could be wrong. It's going to vibrate a lot at idle. Nothing you can do about it except try to get used to it. I have some gel palm gloves that help, and bar-ends should help further; but it will never be smooth. It is also going to make a lot of heat. Too much if you commute through a lot of stop and go traffic lines in my opinion. Even in cool weather, mine can't cope with traffic jams. Can't say for sure that is why your light came on. I idle around 1100 rpm. | ||
| Griffmeister |
On the low idle shake, just make sure that the front mount/isolator isn't loose or the rubber bad. Shouldn't be with those low miles. On the heat from the right side, stuff something between the seat and the frame then try it. If you look there you'll notice a gap where heat from the rear head can escape. The comfort kit won't help this but the related ECM flash might (runs the fan more). | ||
| Sagehawk |
I dont have an 08 but what engine management happens at higher temps for 08-10's? Is there any skip spark or cylinder cut out that when activated would light the cel? My 07 will advance, then retard timing, will back off fuel, then enrich to 110%, fan settings will take over, etc. Untll motor cools back down. I make it a point to not get in traffic due to this. Shut her down or find another way around traffic. | ||
| Kennywiz |
Seriously, thank you all for taking your time to answer my questions or comment. It is truly a big help and the community was one of the reasons I bought the bike. It looks like I'll have to drop the $300 for the EBR stock ECM. I called several HD dealers listed on the "Buell" site and the only thing I could get from them is they would re-flash with the latest ECM software from their HD server. Anyone know if that has better fan management and a map that would run the OEM pipe with a K&N? $50 at the HD dealer vs $305 from EBR. Is the EBR ECM worth it? Thanks | ||
| Froggy |
Right, very few dealers offer any kind of tuning service for Buells. The EBR Race ECM is an aftermarket part from a 3rd party company, and while some dealers may be able to order that for you, there is no advantage vs ordering it yourself.
It has the newer fan logic, but it would not help the D&D, it is just another EPA compliant fuel map.
Hells to the yes. | ||
| Kennywiz |
OK thanks! Seriously, thanks! Ordering today! | ||
| Uly_man |
You will always get some vibs at the bars on this bike. Bar weights help as do Grip Puppies and are good for big hands as well. If you are sitting in traffic just take your hands off the bars. If you try NOT to notice the vibs you will find you will hardly notice them in the end as long as they are just the normal amount. It is the nature of this bikes engine and will NEVER be like a Jap Four. Engine heat? I have a MZ Baghira and the two exhaust pipes run in the same position as the Uly IE Down the right hand side of the engine so get heat as well on that bike. Unlike my 06 bike the 10 bikes frame does NOT GET HOT and THAT is what you need to try and stop if that is what it is doing. Part of the reason the new fan logic works so well is because it runs the fan, while on the move, forcing air over the rear cylinder. Something the OEM setup does not allow to happen very well. You need the WHOLE comfort kit, the hardware, and the new fan logic for it to work at its best. And it DOES work very well and well worth the money and effort to fit the kit. | ||
| Uly_man |
Oh and while you can I would not mess with the idle control on the 08 plus bikes. They updated the bikes with an idle control valve for a good reason so let it do what it was designed to do. The ECM is doing all sorts of things to control the engine and it is doing it faster than most folk will notice as well. An example of this is the high, 1500 to 1700 rpm, start idle? If you "pulled away" at those revs you would, on this bike, be "launched" down the road in a dangerous manner. But it does not do that does it? That is because the ECM has sensed what the bike is doing and changed the revs, fueling, etc as required for the conditions. | ||
| Hoover_uly |
Kennywiz, When I first bought my bike, I came here with nearly the same questions. I'm not in your weight class but it took me a while to get my bike dialed in. I've never had a bike with suspension this sophisticated (adjustable) so it was a bit of a challenge. When I say dialed in, I mean it is a comfortable ride and I feel like it will respond appropriately in an emergency situation but I am not from a sport bike background. From my experience, the adjustments are very sensitive so a light touch is required. For the engine, some refer to it as a paint shaker. Taking your hands off the bars at idle is the best thing/only thing you can do if it is properly maintained. At anything above 2,500 the vibes don't really bother me. I see you live in Michigan. I was there for a couple of years and it can get just as hot and humid as it does here in Alabama. Only for a much shorter period. So, riding in the summer can be uncomfortable but mostly in traffic. Also, proper riding gear will help by providing some insulation over something like jeans. For some reason, my bike seems more powerful with the stock ECU but the drive-ability is much improved with the EBR ECU and it runs much cooler. At a minimum, get a flash on the stock unit and install the comfort kit. I don't regret purchasing the EBR ECU but I also found that the stock ECU was damaged due to it's crappy mounting position so I needed a new one anyway. The crankcase breather mod can make a big improvement in off idle performance also. You are a big dude so no matter which ECU you end up with, make sure the seat is not pressing on the ECU connectors. This is a very common problem. You can find info here on how to relocate the ECU and how to make a few mods that will reduce the heat blowing out on your right leg. Neither are really difficult and well worth the effort. The bike is not perfect but it is the best all-around bike I've ever had. Hope you get it dialed in to your satisfaction. | ||
| Kennywiz |
Thanks! Got that D&D off and the OEM with the actuator back on. Took a 100 mile ride and I most certainly can feel a difference. I OEM is REALLY quiet, almost too, but, some of the grunt is gone. Before it was trying to lift the front wheel through a couple gears. Now nada. Still, I'll take a power loss over the loud can. The EBR ECM will be here tomorrow. Does everyone feel that is still the best option, even at $300? I can get the latest OEM flash at the HD dealer for $50. I hope it will increase the power! Had my friend over to sort the suspension. We set the sag at 35mm and I took notes for settings at 30mm in case I want to go throw it around on a weekend. We played with comp and reb on the forks a bunch. Ultimately we found a happy medium. He thinks when i say the front will wash out is just due to how easily the bars move. He wanted to tighten the nut, but I figured I would check here first. Don't want any premature head bearing failure. It was good at highway speeds south of 105, (front end gets too busy), and all around in the twisties. I can comfortably change lines mid turn at a "spirited" pace. I took it out on a widely known curvy road and found my comfort level about 10mph shy of when I last took a sportbike out. Still, good all around. Best of all COMFORT! I rode for 100miles non stop and my throttle hand never went numb. This was common for every other bike I've owned. The stock seat provided enough cushion that my donkey didn't get sore/numb either. the only thing comfort related I need to deal with is the heat from the right side. Does the Comfort Kit REALLY help this issue? I bought this as a commuter bike that I could ride comfortably and throw around on the weekend. It will do! Just wish it was ultimately more refined. the low rpm vibration is something I'll never get over. The instrument cluster is just a tach speedo and dummy lights. I would have at least liked a temp and fuel gauge. The heated grips, while they work, work too well and I find myself modulating them on and off. Plus, they could have better engineered them so the wire doesn't hang, inviting a snag. The HD powertrain works but god would a lot of other setups work better. The trans offers smooth shifts but I would prefer them to be faster and crisper. While I was chatting with EBR about the ECM, they confirmed the AX will have the 1190. Similar chassis but a worthwhile powerplant. NICE! Thanks for all your help! } | ||
| Buewulf |
Kenny, you can check it to make sure it is properly torqued, but I wouldn't tighten the steering nut with the intent of adjusting your steering sensitivity. That certainly isn't how you "adjust" steering sensitivity. The bars move easily because they are wide and thus provide a lot more leverage than a sport bike's bars would. XB12S bars would give you a more familiar feel, but those bars are lower and narrower and may detract from your overall comfort. Maybe a steering stabilizer? The comfort kit helped a lot on my bike. I don't even notice the heat now unless I get stuck in traffic, and then I just notice it is putting off a lot of heat where as before my thigh was medium-well within 5 minutes. I say spring for it. Most people have reported positive results, but I have also seen a few reports where the owners claimed the kit didn't help as much as they would have liked. | ||
| Griffmeister |
"Most people have reported positive results, but I have also seen a few reports where the owners claimed the kit didn't help as much as they would have liked." That's my point, I have the comfort kit installed but did not get the '10 fan logic. As a result, the fan does not run as often. When you are moving with the fan off a lot of hot air will escape from the right side of the seat. Therefore, if you don't get the fan logic then you need to block this air flow. If you want something ready to install I believe a Special OPS heat blanket would be the way to go. |
