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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » BB&D Archives » Archive through April 01, 2014 » Lost my Stator « Previous Next »

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Brakes2late
Posted on Monday, March 24, 2014 - 04:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bike stopped charging on my way to work. All three legs of stator are dead short to each other. Starting it, and checking voltage, I get
15vac
5vac
12vac

Is that normal even though they are shorted out?

Also, any leg to ground is 1K ohms

No burnt smell when I pulled off the inspection cover.
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Ramman4x4
Posted on Monday, March 24, 2014 - 04:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Have you checked your "77 Connector"?

The '06-07 Ulys are prone to this connector melting. The connector was changed for '08 and later bikes.

American Sport Bike has the replacement connector here:
http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/17390.html
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Brakes2late
Posted on Monday, March 24, 2014 - 04:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I removed the connector completely when I installed a new voltage regulator a few years back.
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Froggy
Posted on Monday, March 24, 2014 - 04:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


quote:

Lost my Stator




I hope you can find it, it shouldn't have gone far, after all it is bolted down underneath the primary chain.

Those voltages are too low, and your bike is not charing. I'll have to double check the service manual, but it should be something like 40+ volts AC between each leg with the motor going at 3000rpm. 15/5/12 is way too low, even for idle. Also if I remember right, resistance should be .1-.3 Ohms

Edit - confirmed with a service manual, "Resistance across the stator sockets should be 0.1- 0.3 ohms." and "Run the engine at 2000 RPM. The AC output should be 32-40 volts AC. (approximately 16-20 volts per 1000 RPM)."

(Message edited by froggy on March 24, 2014)
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Teeps
Posted on Monday, March 24, 2014 - 05:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Brakes2late Posted on Monday, March 24, 2014 -
Also, any leg to ground is 1K ohms


In my former working life, we considered anything less than 2 mega ohms continuity.
Or in this case, 1k ohms is a short to ground.
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Brakes2late
Posted on Monday, March 24, 2014 - 05:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well whadda ya know, it was right there under my flywheel the whole time!
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Brakes2late
Posted on Monday, March 24, 2014 - 05:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Now the trick is to get er charged up enough to ride home 40 miles! Looks like I'll be unplugging my headlight...
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Griffmeister
Posted on Monday, March 24, 2014 - 09:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Or borrow a car battery and strap it to the seat.
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Froggy
Posted on Monday, March 24, 2014 - 10:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


quote:

Or borrow a car battery and strap it to the seat.




I've seen that done before.


http://badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290431/ 653892.html?1318387846


That said, 40 miles shouldn't be an issue either if it is all highway and your battery is relatively healthy. Might also be worth pulling the fan fuse to help conserve juice.
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Brakes2late
Posted on Monday, March 24, 2014 - 11:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Wow, now I've seen it all! Yeah I made it home with battery left to spare. Took the stator out tonight. Toast. I'll post a pick tomorrow. Oh, and many thanks once again to Al at American Sportbike for getting a new stator out to me on a minutes notice today!
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Reepicheep
Posted on Tuesday, March 25, 2014 - 08:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

And fwiw, yes, a bad stator can still put out AC, just not enough of it.

When you can measure pin (stator lead) to ground with the stator unhooked, and see any ohms less than millions, its a failed or failing stator.
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Brakes2late
Posted on Tuesday, March 25, 2014 - 10:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)





I couldn't smell anything burnt yesterday when I took the inspection cover off but man did it stink when I got it all apart!

(Message edited by brakes2late on March 25, 2014)
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Reepicheep
Posted on Tuesday, March 25, 2014 - 01:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

They do stink when they go!

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Brakes2late
Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2014 - 10:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

New one is in and I'm back on the road. Thanks Al!!!

As per Al's website, this new style bracket can rub on the bolt heads inside the flywheel. These are the bolts that hold the sprocket on. I checked for clearance by putting a thin film of RTV on the rivet and high point of the bracket then put the flywheel on. Then turned the flywheel a little back and forth. The RTV transferred to the bolt head so I ground the bracket and rivet as shown below.



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Brakes2late
Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2014 - 10:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oh, one other thing. When it first stopped charging and I was troubleshooting in the parking lot I found a 1.6 amp draw. (checked with an ammeter between the neg battery post and cable) I attributed this to the stator and moved on but after putting in the new stator I still have the draw. The only fuse that eliminates the draw is the 30 amp battery fuse, which I guess doesn't really tell me a whole lot. Bike started fine this morning with no signs of a weak battery. This after sitting for 8 hours with the battery hooked back up.
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Brakes2late
Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2014 - 05:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well it appears my stator may be dead again. Bike stopped charging and I am reading a dead short from one leg to any other. Any ideas? Could the voltage regulator be shorting out the stator wires?
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Arry
Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2014 - 08:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Do you have a service manual? Resistance from leg to leg is low -- 0.1-0.3 Ohms. Each leg to ground should be high -- (infinite?). If you have a 1.6 amp draw (with the key off?), that is a problem and will drain your battery.
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Ramman4x4
Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2014 - 10:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It wouldn't take long for a 1.6amp draw to drain a good battery when the engine is off. Maybe the stator was working overtime to recharge the battery from near dead during your ride(s).

Recharge the battery, get the engine running and check the AC voltage output. Per the previous post by Froggy "Run the engine at 2000 RPM. The AC output should be 32-40 volts AC. (approximately 16-20 volts per 1000 RPM)." This method should be more accurate than comparing 0.1 ohms to a short.

If the output is within range, shut the engine off and hook your voltmeter up as before to check current draw. Start unplugging connectors to major electrical components to narrow down the search. This is one of the drawbacks of a motorcycle vs a car...most of the electrical components are on the main 30amp fuse versus individual fuses.
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Brakes2late
Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2014 - 11:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well, a frustrating night to say the least. I was using a POS Klein multimeter that I carry on the bike and I think it bit me. It read dead short between stator wires and my Fluke 87 read .2-.3. Voltage when idle 16ac and 32ac at 2000rpm. The amp draw with the Klein was 1.6 and with the Fluke was.06. Voltage regulator checked out good as well. Put it all back together and get 13.8 volt charge with both meters.
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