| Author | Message | ||
     Uly_man |
I am still going over my MZ Baghira to fix all the little bits and bobs that needed doing. It would run ok but not start well after a few days. I fitted a std NGK plug but also found that a NGK Iridium type 9 had been fitted. I should have been a type 8. This plug was fouled and the color would indicate to me that it was not burning right. Also the mpg was no better than a Uly. Anyway the new plug seems to have transformed the bikes running. Smoother and quicker pickup. Better idle, it seems to make more power and a more liner rev/ torque range as well. Before you needed rev it hard for it to go well but now it is not needed it just GOES WELL. A cool bike. So remember that one on your Ulys. Oh and it only cost $3.20 as well. (Message edited by uly_man on February 19, 2014) | ||
| North_of_55 |
So... I'll ask (at the risk of starting a small war). What is the best plug for an '08 Uly? I am currently running BR9EIX and it runs like crap off-idle and low revs. I chose them based on reading many, many posts on the subject. I have also read that many have good luck with the stockers. Should I try a different heat range or stick with the 9's? | ||
| Uly_man |
I have ALWAYS used stock plugs and have had no problems at all. | ||
| Etennuly |
I have run stock plugs and irridums without noticing any difference. As long as they don't get fouled on multiple cold starts they seem to run as well at 20,000 miles as when new. I know.....they should have been changed at 10,000, but during a busy time I forgot until the next plug change mileage was due.  | ||
| Sharkguy |
I tried the iridiums and went back to stock on the 09. The iridiums seem to run hotter in my bike and it seemed to run leaner especially in the summer months. Went back to stock and am very happy with them. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Stock plugs. 10R12A up to and including 2007. 10R12X from 2008 and up. 30k on my '06. 10R12A's since mile 1. I've never been into the engine. I've run bone-stock EFI, filter, and muffler. Buell Race filter and Drummer, with Buell P&A ECM. Stock ECM with stock muffler and race filter. And currently stock muffler, race filter, and EBR ECM. Always had 10R12A's. Maybe I should swap plug wires before spring. Since they're OEM and all (just like my battery)... | ||
| Arry |
Etennuly, Which ones did you get 20k out of, stock or iridium?, I'm curious because NGK claims a longer service life with iridium. | ||
| Etennuly |
High performance engines hate cold weather cold starts. The cost of too many of these starts are spark plugs. I am replacing a set in my Vette that only have 6,000 miles on them because I had to move the car four or five times without driving it, in order to move it to where I could work on it. HEI will make the engine run with fouled plugs but not as well as with non fouled plugs. I will put a picture of one in here tomorrow. One side of it is clean and running the other side is wet and building up with carbon crap. It is amazing how exactly half is working. My big truck has a GM 8.1 L gas engine, it too has a couple of fouled plugs from me not taking the time to plug in the oil heater on real cold days. When the oil is heated it fires up and runs great, with out it it will fire up and wet a couple plugs and run with a miss until it goes at least 100 miles. New plugs will also clear it right up. Cold sucks. | ||
| Etennuly |
Yeah, I had the iridium plugs in on that 20,000 mile run, but it ran clean enough with the stock plugs that they would have been good that far also. At 10,000 they always came out looking good. | ||
| Motorbike |
I run the NGK Iridiums in my 08 XT only because someone here recommended it. Really though, these things would probably run about the same even with spark plugs out of an old John Deere 2 cylinder tractor, if they would fit.... | ||
| Etennuly |
     This is a fresh good example of a fouled plug that still runs, makes an occasional miss idling and misses under load. This is out of my multiport fuel injected, high energy ignition, '86 Corvette 355, mildly cammed, 10:1 compression ratio, with 7,000 miles on it. This is the one that I mentioned several cold starts on quite cold days without actually driving it anywhere. I drove it about sixty miles with the plug ending like this. The Buell plugs come out similarly with the same treatment. You can see where it was firing and where it was not. It has been my experience they don't come back from fouling much better than this regardless of the electronic cleaning device. Might get you home but they never seem to work the same once fouled. This was indexed about 40degrees from 0, being aimed at the piston. | ||
| Uly_man |
The color of my electrode and insulator is the same as this on my "9 type" Iridium plug of the MZ. Been out on the bike a bit now. It starts "on choke" first time from very cold and you can come off the choke quickly. The bike idles like a sewing machine, it revs more easily, rev control is better and it picks up faster as well. The whole ride is MUCH, MUCH nicer and is in fact starting to give even the Uly a run for the money. Very good even though it is cold, wet and dark here. So, as I have said before, how DO YOU KNOW if your bike is running RIGHT? Just a small thing can effect this. Fixed for $3.20 and a quality part as well. And NO, NO, NO the running issues on a Buell IS NOT a "Buell thing". It is because something is not working as it should. | ||
| Etennuly |
So, as I have said before, how DO YOU KNOW if your bike is running RIGHT? Just a small thing can effect this. Fixed for $3.20 and a quality part as well.  Multiply that by eight and you see what it cost to get my car running right again. In my big truck the plugs are about $12.00 each. Eight of them is.....12.....carry the 1.....add 2.....yeah, equals about $96. Damn. |
