| Author | Message | ||
     Tenn10 |
I have installed a DDM 35 Watt HID kit on the low beam position only. Big improvement in night time lighting. I also installed the Non-H4 headlight relay kit from Eastern Beaver. http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Non- H4_Kits/non-h4_kits.html It uses very slim and compact Panasonic relays - Helps a lot in the cramped space under the Uly fly screen. This brings current directly from the battery and uses the handlebar switches for low current switching only. I ordered this with a diode installed that keeps the low beam HID on when the high beam is on. To prevent the momentary HID shutdown during starting I have installed a voltage sensitive latching relay from JatronX. http://www.jatronx.com/products/voltage-sensitive- latching-relay/ This relay looks just like a standard automotive fan control relay. It switches on at about 13.5 Volts and will not unlatch until voltage falls to about 5 Volts. It is rated for 30 Amps but I use it to only switch the relay coil current on the Eastern Beaver headlight relays. I found this on their website and it is for sale through Ebay. The one on Ebay is not the same as the one described on their webpage. The one described on the webpage uses the Normally Closed relay terminal as a bypass allowing activation of the relay using the high beam circuit. The one listed on Ebay has a Normally Closed relay contact. If you want the bypass function you must specify it when you order on Ebay, otherwise it will not have this function. A note on installation - be sure to connect the positive voltage sensing terminal to a switched circuit. It seems obvious but I connected it to the battery voltage and the relay did not operate properly. So far it works great. The HID comes on only after the engine is started and voltage rises above 13.5 volts. I can activate the HID without the engine running by pressing the flash-to-pass switch or switching on the high beam. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Dang, that ends up pricey. I could do better with $15 in hardware with a minor tweak (defeaturing actually) to the heated gear controller I built. I'll put it on the list of stuff to do... but it may become a moot point as I expect the LED headlights to become very compelling in the next year or two. HID's will go away... | ||
| Glenn |
I bought an adjustable timed relay, DEI 528T Delay Type Relay and ran it for about three years but I started having trouble with it latching. Some times the HID would come on and others not. The only way I could then get the HID to light would be to shut the bike off and restart it. I got rid of it a few months back and now have a switch on the side of my cowl that grounds the HID relay, not a time delay one, to send power to the HID. I also having driving lights on another switch. My start routine is to now start and then flip the two switches. On shutdwon, I flip the kill, HID and driving lights to their off positions. I can easily verify that things are on by the switch positions. I like this arrangement. | ||
| Tenn10 |
No doubt, this was more than I would have liked to spend but I got things the way I wanted them. I spent the money a little at a time so it didn't hurt as much. I was surprised at how long it took to install but I have had plenty of time with all this cold weather. I do like the idea of going LED when that becomes an easy retrofit. New things are becoming available almost daily. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Hmm. I have some old hardware laying around that were prototypes for previous versions of the heater controller. I *think* they would work as is, I would just have to reprogram the microcontroller. Maybe I'll play with it. | ||
| Uly_man |
"To prevent the momentary HID shutdown during starting". This must be something to do with the brand of HID kit you are using, or something else, as the one I use does not do this. The type/brand below.  It did do this with the "both headlight on" mod done at the connector block near the forks but it works fine with it done at the light switch. Anyway you got it working so that is good. |
