| Author | Message | ||
     Bertsdirt |
Here is a crazy (to me at least) question. I burned out a headlight bulb a couple months ago, then another about 2 weeks ago, then another yesterday. In searching Badweb, it sounds like a possible voltage regulator issue, so I put the multimeter on it tonight and it keep a pretty constant 12-13 volts. No spikes. I have the original VR, and have not checked the connector yet. Probably won't have time till the weekend. So tonight while checking the multimeter, I smelled something burning. I turned out the little thing that keeps the clutch cable away from the exhaust broke so the clutch cable was rubbing and the rubber housing being burned by the exhaust. There was metal (clutch cable adjuster nut) on metal (exhaust). Is it even remotely possible that is causing some ground issue? It doesn't make sense, but I need to stop burning out headlamps, since I now ride home from work in the dark. The other things I need to track down are the VR connector since I have the original connector and I've read about those issues. Or maybe it is just a crappy run of bulbs I've tried. Those were a generic NAPA H7 and the last one was a Sylvania Xtravision. Any idea's or thoughts on my gremlin would be greatly appreciated. This is for a 2006 Ulysses. Kevin | ||
| Froggy |
A failing VR often will intermittently send voltage spikes which you will never see sitting in your garage, but if you have a voltmeter on your dash you can quickly identify when it happens. That is your culprit, and its going to start spiking more and more frequently. The 77 connector issue is likely to cause voltage drops, as when it fails it severs the connection to the battery. | ||
| Arry |
If the rubber boot over the clutch cable adjuster is damaged (burnt away or missing) you can get water draining back to the primary case (I've heard). This will contaminate your primary oil (make it white and frothy). I don't know if this might damage your alternator coils... | ||
| Bertsdirt |
Thanks guys. I monitored the VR for about 5 minutes and didn't notice anything, but I almost didn't expect too. It is hard to catch an intermittent gremlin. I'll check the 77 connector as soon as I can though like you said it will be voltage drops instead of spikes. I'm lucky enough to be just a few miles from American Sport Bike so I can swing in to see Al for a new VR, and I think I'll get the LED dashboard voltmeter gadget too. Interesting thought about water seeping into the primary. Thankfully I only ride in rain/drizzle a couple times a year in southern California, but I will figure out a way to seal up the burned boot once I make a new bracket to keep it off the exhaust. Thanks again. | ||
| Froggy |
Al sells the improved clutch cable bracket that later bikes came with http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/17311.html If you got lucky and just damaged the boot, you may be able to steal one off another cable. That said, I'd consider getting a new clutch cable, the newer ones are easier to actuate due to a coating in the cable. | ||
| Dean |
Same for me & Al tells me to check my ground at the steering head & it didn't seem very tight! I took it loose, wiped it down & snugged it down with a ill blue loctite - ill keep ya updated about my success, but have a voltage regulator at the ready from Al's. Dean | ||
| Reepicheep |
Silicone rescue tape could probably be used to save an otherwise good clutch cable as well. You will need to cut off and reapply whenever you need to adjust the clutch, but it would be cheaper than a new cable and it would probably seal nicely. That metal to metal contact shouldn't create electrical problems *unless* something else is broken (which has happened before to people, and the clutch cable became a ground strap). Given the Uly's tendancy to crack wires in that wire bundle around the steering head, and break ground straps going to the steering head, that is probably worth checking if you haven't checked it. I gave up on the stupid Sylvania bulbs I could get locally. They didn't last long at all in either my cars or bikes. | ||
| Dean |
Who makes a good tough headlight bulb in an H7 ? Dean | ||
| Bertsdirt |
I had Phillips bulbs a few years ago, they seemed to last pretty good. I think I got them from Autozone. My experience and what I have read is the Sylvanias blow. | ||
| Xbimmer |
Who makes a good tough headlight bulb in an H7 ? I use these:  They seem to hold up to vibration really well, have decent output from my deteriorated headlights and great light from my Hella FF-50's, and I haven't replaced one since I fixed my VR issues with a Shindengen last year. | ||
| Teeps |
Froggy Posted on Tuesday, December 17, 2013 - If you got lucky and just damaged the boot, Or, just buy a boot. http://www.ebay.com/itm/230525064858?_trksid=p3984 .m1423.l2649&item=230525064858&sspagename=STRK:MEW AX:IT&vxp=mtr | ||
| Ourdee |
fixed my VR issues with a Shindengen +1 | ||
| Uly_man |
"Or, just buy a boot". And remember to fit a cable tie to the top of it. A simple, cheap and easy thing to do but it will save time/money in the long run. "I put the multimeter on it tonight and it keep a pretty constant 12-13 volts". That is not right unless your meter is way out. It should be about 13.7v even with a fully charged battery. The charging system can get to 15.1v but this is normal/not a problem as the VR will control the output. Anything past 15.1v is a problem and the VR is going bad. You may well get the FULL output to the bike from the Stator which will fry your electrics in the end. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I wouldn't be so quick to blame the VR. Stay away from any bulbs advertized as "EXTRA BRIGHT!" That means the filament is thinner, hotter, more fragile. I bought sylvania silver star magic bulbs for my Wife's corolla and they were brighter. Also, they lasted less than a year after costing twice as much! Here is a counterpoint: Remember the old days before halogen bulbs? Those old seal beams lasted forever. Looked like a kerosene lamp though. My mom's first car, a 1966 mustang accrued over 200K miles, wore out the first engine and yet went away in 1985 with one of the original factory headlights  | ||
| Uly_man |
You can fit any H7 bulb to this bike but in the main bike ones are more "heavy duty" to account for the conditions of its use IE Vibration. Not a headlamp thread but I would not bother with a Halogen one anyway. The modern slimline HIDs are cheap, easy to fit and superb. One on the low beam and a Halogen on the high with the "both on" mod done at the switch works great. And you can still re-fit a H7 bulb if one fails at any time. HID over Halogen is like "night and day" and better than even the best PIAA bulbs. I know I have had them both. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I agree with your assessment of the HID superiority but every walmart will sell you a normal bulb for $11. I am Cheeeeap! For instance, I could have upgraded my stock lights with HID but instead, I bolted on $28 worth of driving lights. | ||
| Uly_man |
"I am Cheeeeap!" Me as well but only up to a point. Yes you can get a cheap bulb, 6 UKP, but how long it will last is another matter. A good bike one like a H7 Philips MotoVision Motorcycle Bulb is 30 UKP a pair/set. I use a Hawk Alarm HID H7 pair/set at 33 UKP inc post. They have the metal bulb base and they have a two year warranty even on the bulbs. HID bulbs make even the best Halogens like the PIAA Xtreme look like rubbish and they cost 60 UKP a pair/set. |
