| Author | Message | ||
     Telecolin |
I have a strange issue with my 2006 ulysses. as I am cruising at 3-4k rpm, every once in a while my battery voltage will drop down to 12.2-12.4 for a few seconds, the lights will dim and I lose power. It then returns to normal. This only seems to happen at 3-4k rpm after it reaches temperature, not at idle or above 4000 rpm. I have replaced the voltage regulator and the battery. I did the test on the stator and it seemed to be within the manuals' spec. it is sometimes a single instance and sometimes it happens a number of times in a row. I'm at my wit's end with this issue. I have also checked and cleaned all grounds and all battery connections are tight. Any help is greatly appreciated! Colin | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Since it's a 2006, I would look into the infamous "77 connector" | ||
| Reepicheep |
Is the normal "charged" battery with the headlights on but motor not running 12.2 to 12.4 volts? If so, I think the voltage is a red herring... the motor looses power, you pull in the clutch to not die, the motor RPM drops quickly, and the voltage drops because the stator is not generating power. Sounds like an internally cracked wire around the steering neck wire bundle. The insulation will look fine, the wires inside will be cracked. Could be a crank position sensor as well. | ||
| Telecolin |
I have replaced the 77 connector natex (forgot to mention that).repecheep, the battery is at 12.4 when on but not running. When the power dips I don't have to pull the clutch, it isn't trying to die, it just slightly loses power. I just replaced the crank position sensor recently so I hope that's not it! I'll check the wires in the steering neck, is there any way to narrow the source down? | ||
| Buewulf |
I had a ziptie that had chaffed the friction tape and insulation on VR wire where it routes between the exhaust and oil line behind the chin fairing. The insulation was just barely worn through, but it was enough that it was arcing to the exhaust mounting tab. I have never heard of anyone else having this issue, but you may want to check it out. | ||
| Reepicheep |
For the steering neck wires, I did it two ways, and the "wrong way" turned out to be the easy way. I had a bike that would not spin up the starter off the button if the handlebars were in the wrong position. I have an EE background, so just to be stubborn I spent an hour or so with the wiring diagram doing head scratching based on the symptoms and schematic, and knew which wire it was by color before I even split the bundle. But once I dissected that bundle, I was able to just run each wire through my fingers and trivially find compromised wires. The one I thought was broken was broken all right, but where one was broken the rest should be checked. I found one other that was getting ready to break. So in spite of the fact that I knew before I touched it which wire to fix, I still had to check every wire, and it was totally obvious which wire needed fixed just by touch. So that hour studying the schematic was just for entertainment purposes. So I'd recommend just taking it apart and checking it. The wire you need to fix is the one you find that is broken.  If none are broken, you spent 45 to 90 minutes for peace of mind. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Fan work? Could be a bad fan (increased resistance) trying to cycle on, and eating amperage until the circuit quits trying... |
