| Author | Message | ||
     Othrider |
This is my first rear wheel removal for a Uly - have the shop manual but can't believe it's necessary to remove all that. And can't seem to find the answer in the archives - would someone please tell me what's really necessary for the job, thanks. | ||
| Froggy |
Loosen the pinch bolt for the rear axle under the swingarm, remove rear caliper and let it hang off to the side, remove axle, wheel comes out. It may be easier the first time if you remove the belt guards that way you can get more room to push the belt out of the way. (Message edited by froggy on October 23, 2013) | ||
| Skifastbadly |
...more room to get the belt on, you mean. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
You don't need to remove the rear caliper. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Regarding belt guards, I just remove the lower one. | ||
| Trevd |
I do it as Froggy describes, and I just remove the lower belt guard as well. When re-installing, if you start wondering why the axle threads are not catching in the swingarm, and you keep moving the wheel around, trying to get the threads to catch, and just can't get it and you start getting frustrated, and you read the manual again, thinking there must be a trick, and you check badweb again thinking there must be a trick, don't panic. Just push the axle in a bit more so that the fat part of the axle is into the swingarm - then it will catch. Hypothetically speaking of course. | ||
| Schwara |
Same as above. Easiest wheel to remove from all of our combined 5 bikes over the last few years ... way easier than pulling the wife's 883 for the 1st time. I had to take half the exhaust off to pull the axle out on that one. I did not follow the HD specs when I put it all back together. I have read that some people like to loosen the belt tensioner a little to ease getting the belt back on. If you happen to have the Free Spirits belt tensioner you can instead relax the tension with the nut on the spring for it. Not trying to start another flame thread on FS tensioner, just trying to educate  As an aside, this is a great time to replace the belt and keep the current slightly stretched out one as a spare. After pulling the rear wheel you have done 95% of the work to pull the belt. | ||
| Arcticktm |
Like Froggy said except no need to remove the brake caliper, and you pretty much have to remove the belt guard on a Uly. As long as your belt has some miles on it (so its loosened up a bit), you should be able to loosen the rear axle most of the way to relieve belt tension, and then gently slide the belt off the pulley while you slowly roll the rear wheel. Pretty easy. The front is slightly trickier because you have to get the wheel spokes lined up right to swing the brake caliper/fork leg in place, and of course remember the front axle has LH threads like is marked on the lower fork casting. | ||
| Froggy |
I find having the caliper out of the way makes it significantly easier. Takes only a minute to remove and replace vs having to fight harder with making sure everything is perfectly aligned. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
I go along with what Froggy just wrote. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Me too. I've done it without removing the caliper, but found it easier to just remove those two bolts and get it out of the way. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I usually mash the rear caliper's piston in to make reassembly easier. But yeah the front is like one of those pub puzzles with horseshoes and rings and chains. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Good analogy Nate. And where the horseshoe weighs 15 lbs and is 2 feet wide and still covered with soap from the tire change. | ||
| Othrider |
Thanks - you folks are amazing - this is my first forum as well. Had no problems, much easier than my FLH but not as easy as the K100RS's 4 lug nuts. |
