| Author | Message | ||
     Bigme007 |
For years ive heard about the rear wheel bearing issue. From what ive read since bringing my new to me 06' home, there are more potential - (probable) trouble spots. Before I get over concerned and start fixing things that arent broke, I was wondering about the potential vs probable issues ??? Probable = a well documented issue where the failing part or point of failure happens more often than not. Potential = an issue for some, but not for any significant majority. 1.Rear wheel bearings ? 2.Grounding issues (wires) ? 3.ECM failure (seat hitting connectors) ? 4.Charging issues (77 connector) ? 5.Fuel pump failure (06 model)? 6. ???? My 06' has about 16K on the clock, appears to be stock (except drummer and suspension). I did the headlight mod but nothing else as of yet. Fixing problems as a preventative is always a good idea. If they are real (probable) problems. I realize that replies will most likely be just opinions... but I ask to see if there is an overwhelming consensus ?? thanks | ||
| Uly_man |
I would not worry but since the bike is new to you IE You do not know what others have done to it I would check over the whole bike for issues. You should do this with any bike. If it was me I would change both front and rear bearings, with the spacers, anyway. It cheap enough to do and you will know they are right. And change engine, tranny and brake fluids. Check the 77 for heat/electrical damage and check the charge rate is right. Move the ECM as well. Make sure the bike runs as it should as well IE Idle, timing, no stutter, pops, etc. Good luck. | ||
| Ratbuell |
FWIW - I have an 06, 30k, one-owner. Only four "failures" in all that time - two belts, a 77 connector, and the VR. Summary of the whole bike? Third belt. I carry a used belt as a spare, for roadside replacements. Replaced 77 connector sometime in 08 or 09 I think. The Kuryakyn meter saved me on that one! Replaced VR a couple months ago. That meter does it again!  Installed a '10 wheel last winter as preventative maintenance. I run an EBR ECM for fun, with a K&N and stock exhaust. Tall seat, never had a crack issue. Syn3 every 5k miles, both holes. Stebel air horn. HID low beam. Factory battery. Never any ground issues. Suggestion for you? Pay attention. Look the bike over very well every 500 miles or so, check torques, look for leaks, monitor your voltages, and note any breaks in patterns or consistency. If you're alert...you'll catch anything before it becomes disabling. | ||
| Uly_man |
"Pay attention. Look the bike over very well every 500 miles or so, check torques, look for leaks, monitor your voltages, and note any breaks in patterns or consistency. If you're alert...you'll catch anything before it becomes disabling". In all my dealings, with this bike, I cannot think of a more precise, complete and logical way of working with it. Thank you RB. PS - This should be put on the "new to Uly/XB" post. (Message edited by uly_man on October 19, 2013) | ||
| Bigme007 |
Thanks for the replies. I probably wont move the ECM - 16K miles and 8 years and it appears fine (no sign it is being hit by seat - I assume this is the problem). Battery cable however does show signs on this.  I need tires and will most likely either replace bearings or bite the bullet and just replace the whole rear wheel. 77 connector seems to an issue so I will investigate that. Any recomendations on Amp/Volt meter and where to mount and wire it in?? thanks (fwiw - i tend to go a bit overboard on new to me bikes - normal fluid changes, torque checks, etc - are routine) (Message edited by BigMe007 on October 19, 2013) | ||
| Ftd |
I am the original owner of a 2006 Uly (32000 miles). From your list I have only suffered a "77" failure. I have installed a 2010 wheel for piece of mind. Check my profile for other mods. Voltage monitor that mounts in dash and looks like it came from the factory. Search for Fat Bstrd's thread using this item: https://signaldynamics.com/index.php/products/led- lighting?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage .tpl&product_id=56&category_id=44&vmcchk=1 | ||
| Kag |
i need to get a voltage monitor.....glad you asked. | ||
| Buewulf |
1) Bearings - Probable: I wouldn't bother changing them, though. From what I have experienced myself and read on these forums, there isn't some fixed life on the bearings whereby you can avoid failure by routinely changing them. In fact, I think you would be more likely to ruin the bearing well on the wheel than avoid bearing failure by changing them out often. Instead, a) periodically take the wheel off and check bearings for notchiness b) smear some antiseize over the seals after sticking them back on the bearing to help keep water out c) or just buy the 2010 wheel and sleep easy 2) Grounding Issues - Potential: sand the contact points, add star washers, check for rubbing on key wires and that should do it. Also address wires on the steering stem bundle. 3) ECM - Potential: The seats are the main culprit. Even if there is no evidence of contact, I'd move it. One day the seat pan may degrade enough to make contact. 4) Charging issues - Very probable if you leave the 77 connector in place: just get rid of the 77 connector. Stator / VR problems are probably still more likely than a lot of other makes, but not terribly so. 5) Fuel pump - Potential?: This is something I haven't addressed myself. I may do it next time I have the wheel off, but I am not terribly worried about it. It is the wires that get abraded. I don't read about an abnormal number of pumps themselves failing. 6) Rear Rocker Box leaks - Potential to Probable?: irritating but not a big deal, though if neglected can ruin your fan. There is no "pre-fix". Just keep an eye on it. 7) Belt - Almost certain to happen eventually: Carry a spare. | ||
| Xbimmer |
Good advice from all above. Have owned my Uly for 7+ years now, first 2 years I put 50K on it and man did that 2 year/unlimited mileage warranty get used. Trying times they were and pretty much defined at least in my mind the difference between crappy Buell dealers and enthusiastic Buell dealers, once the warranty was over with I was able to dig in and start addressing the known "potentials". This site is priceless for info and assistance. The bike is easy to work on IMO and while factory parts used to be very reasonably priced before the Closing they're still not in exotic range and lucky for us there's a growing list of aftermarket automotive components in our Buells that work just fine. Go here if you haven't already: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142838/442053.html?1238017122 Also, your + battery cable is wrong and the seat is sitting on it, this is how it should look:  Took me a long time to decide to move my ECM, big mistake. Just my thoughts but even though I had two standoffs at the ECM mounts I believe the difference in flexibility between the plastic and steel mounting points (as stock) over time and heat cycles bent my original ECM's board and it failed rather suddenly. Moving it is free and easy. | ||
| Bigme007 |
thanks to all again for the replies. I will just bypass the 77 connector and call it a day. Volt meter on order. I will add relocating the ECM to the list. Is there a typical point to relocate? I can see where it is in the pic from "Xbimmer". Anyone post a tutorial on this move? Or maybe im overthinking it? thanks | ||
| Fltwistygirl |
"Anyone post a tutorial on this move?" Do a quick search here on ecm relocation. There is a step by step write up on how to do it and I believe over time people have added suggestions on how to better protect the ecm in its new location. We've relocated ecms on both of our Ulys using info we got here. It was not difficult or time consuming. Good luck! | ||
| Dmcutter |
Off on a tangent here about ECMs. Is there a difference between the EBR ECM and the stock with regard to the cracking at the gray connector? I recently replaced my EBR with another one programmed for the stock muffler and have someone interested in buying my other one, but I noticed a hairline crack along the base of the gray connector. Does this mean it's toast? The only running issues I had appeared to be symptomatic of the exhaust valve not being hooked up, did not note other gremlins suggestive of a bad ECM. Is there a way to test it? | ||
| Reepicheep |
The connectors don't crack, the solder joints where the connector pins connect to the board crack. A cracked connector is certainly something worth looking further into though, but maybe it's just a mold line in the plastic or something. I think the EBR ECM is the same hardware with different software. As for testing, you can either dissect the ECM down to where you can see those solder pads, or you can simply apply pressure to the connectors while the bike is running and see if it does "something funny". | ||
| Tootal |
I'm going to mention this just in case you are going to be touring in isolated places a long way from home. A few 06 and 07's have had their throttle body shafts snap in half right at the butterfly screw hole. The vast majority of folks don't have any problem but a few have. If you desire an updated shaft I can provide you one for a lot less than what the factory will sell you a complete throttle body for. However, if you plan on just riding local then I wouldn't go to the trouble. If you do become a minority victim then you can get one then. Have fun with the new toy! | ||
| Uly_man |
"Also, your + battery cable is wrong". You should also ALWAYS put the main leads on the battery FIRST for max contact area for starting. A 10 wheel is NOT the "be end and all" and will still go bad if it is not fitted correctly. | ||
| Bigme007 |
Uly man - Battery cable fixed/re-routed. I have to assume the 2010 wheel is a great improvement over the old... but not installing it correctly wont help at all  FWIW - most the (bigger) bikes ive owned (japanese flavor) have had 3 bearings in the rear wheel. Seems like a good idea. Even if it was an after thought in this case. | ||
| Apeofthoth |
I'm in the process of inspecting the grounds on my 07 (getting some weird stuttering). I am having trouble figuring out how to remove the fuse box for the rear grounding sites. Anyone have pics or tips? Also, pics and tips for the forward grounding site under the airbox would be helpful as well. One last thing... Bigme007, would you mind commenting on how it goes checking/replacing/byepassing the 77 (whatever/however you end up doing it)? Thanks! helpful post! |
